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  • FIRST POST
    NewFolder
    Best, cheapest way to remove rust from car?
    • #1
    • 30th Jun 13, 5:43 PM
    Best, cheapest way to remove rust from car? 30th Jun 13 at 5:43 PM
    My car is starting to show it's age now, and I've noticed a few areas of rust on the bodywork.

    The car isn't worth much as it's rather old, but I want to keep it in a working and roadworthy condition for as long as possible, so I'd like to know of a method that I could use to either remove this rust, or to protect it and prevent it from spreading to other parts of the car, before it needs welding, etc.

    I don't want to spend too much, and I'd rather do it myself than take it to a garage or workshop, mainly because of the cost.

    It doesn't matter too much if it looks a bit of a mess afterwards as the rust is in quite a well hidden area.
Page 1
    • Strider590
    • By Strider590 30th Jun 13, 6:32 PM
    • 10,438 Posts
    • 5,754 Thanks
    Strider590
    • #2
    • 30th Jun 13, 6:32 PM
    • #2
    • 30th Jun 13, 6:32 PM
    Wire brush the affect area and paint over with Hammerite, that'll definitely stop it.
    Having the last word isn't the same as being right.......

    "Never confuse education with intelligence"
    • Joe Horner
    • By Joe Horner 30th Jun 13, 6:51 PM
    • 3,658 Posts
    • 3,031 Thanks
    Joe Horner
    • #3
    • 30th Jun 13, 6:51 PM
    • #3
    • 30th Jun 13, 6:51 PM
    The cheapest (and best) way to remove rust is one of these:



    The problem is, it leaves you with the more difficult (and expensive) problem of getting rid of the resulting hole

    Short of that, sand it back down to clean metal (or as clean as you can get) using emery cloth. Treat the metal with Kurust (or similar) to kill off any remaining rust then use a light skim of body filler to level everything off.

    Flat the filler and smooth using progressive grades of wet & dry paper through to about 600 grit, then prime and paint.

    Total material costs to get started should be under about 25 quid and a typical rust bubble (assuming it hasn't gone through) shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes of actual working time - plus the time for filler and chemicals to do their job, but you can be starting on the next one while that's happening.

    Even if you don't get a great finish, it'll look better than rust (or Hammerite :P )
    • alastairq
    • By alastairq 30th Jun 13, 6:57 PM
    • 4,981 Posts
    • 4,087 Thanks
    alastairq
    • #4
    • 30th Jun 13, 6:57 PM
    • #4
    • 30th Jun 13, 6:57 PM
    I used one of those......ended up having to get a new car to surround the hole!
    No, I don't think all other drivers are idiots......but some are determined to change my mind.......
  • Flying-High
    • #5
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:01 PM
    • #5
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:01 PM
    Rub the rust back... Treat it with Jenolite then paint it. Failing Jenolite theres a good Rust treatment BiltHamber make but can't for the life of me remember what its called.
  • Quietmanc
    • #6
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:18 PM
    • #6
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:18 PM
    Is this the one? http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-ub
  • Flying-High
    • #7
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:25 PM
    • #7
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:25 PM
    No that's a cavity wax... Similar to Waxoyl. It's the Hydrate 80
    • Retrogamer
    • By Retrogamer 30th Jun 13, 7:29 PM
    • 3,541 Posts
    • 3,583 Thanks
    Retrogamer
    • #8
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:29 PM
    • #8
    • 30th Jun 13, 7:29 PM
    Wire brush the affect area and paint over with Hammerite, that'll definitely stop it.
    Originally posted by Strider590
    It'll stop it for a few months if you're lucky.

    I removed rust from my wheels using an angle grinder with wire wheel to bring them back to the bare metal then painted with Hammerite direct to rust paint.
    Stored them in my shed for a few months (winter tyres on them) and they had rusted through again.

    Kurust will slow it down a little more, but again you won't even get a year out of it.


    The best method i'd found is
    Angle grinder with wire wheel (or cordless drill with wire wheel for smaller areas)
    Treat with Dinitrol RC800 - 2 coats (expensive but it's one of the best out there)
    Then if it's underside or out of sight use Ronseal No Rust and if ont he bodywork use bodyfiller then spray over with primer ect.

    I spoke to someone who restores classic cars and does a lot of sailing. They painted their boat trailer with Dinitrol and Ronseal years ago and no sign of any rust yet so he's been using it with success on classic car restoration.
    • redux
    • By redux 30th Jun 13, 8:32 PM
    • 15,558 Posts
    • 18,357 Thanks
    redux
    • #9
    • 30th Jun 13, 8:32 PM
    • #9
    • 30th Jun 13, 8:32 PM
    Short of that, sand it back down to clean metal (or as clean as you can get) using emery cloth. Treat the metal with Kurust (or similar) to kill off any remaining rust then use a light skim of body filler to level everything off.

    Flat the filler and smooth using progressive grades of wet & dry paper through to about 600 grit, then prime and paint.

    Total material costs to get started should be under about 25 quid and a typical rust bubble (assuming it hasn't gone through) shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes of actual working time - plus the time for filler and chemicals to do their job, but you can be starting on the next one while that's happening.

    Even if you don't get a great finish, it'll look better than rust (or Hammerite :P )
    Originally posted by Joe Horner
    One problem is that the filler can hold water, causing the same problems of rust and bubbles in the paint to happen again later.

    So if the filler has been wet-sanded, which is usually the case, it's worth some time and heat to make sure it gets better than just touch dry
  • demystified
    Not worth the bother in my experience. If theres rust you can see there will be rust you can't see. Won't make one iota of difference when it comes to MOT time anyway. Its purely cosmetic.
    • Ectophile
    • By Ectophile 1st Jul 13, 10:15 PM
    • 2,370 Posts
    • 1,410 Thanks
    Ectophile
    There's a liquid called Kurust that you can paint onto bare rust, and it turns the rust into a purple-black hard surface.

    It works well to stop surface rust. But if the problem is that the metal is rusting away from behind, then it's only a very temporary fix.
    • colino
    • By colino 2nd Jul 13, 9:19 AM
    • 4,944 Posts
    • 2,514 Thanks
    colino
    Unfortunately your mild steel car is going to rust. If it is so corroded it is visible, it has to be cut out and replaced. Please don't bother doing it on a runaround, amateur filling, finishing and painting always makes the car look worse. Live with it, have it professionally done or do that "classy" look of putting masking tape all round the car, to your desired height and giving the car a two-tone look with black hammerite.
    • Strider590
    • By Strider590 2nd Jul 13, 11:12 AM
    • 10,438 Posts
    • 5,754 Thanks
    Strider590
    It'll stop it for a few months if you're lucky.

    I removed rust from my wheels using an angle grinder with wire wheel to bring them back to the bare metal then painted with Hammerite direct to rust paint.
    Stored them in my shed for a few months (winter tyres on them) and they had rusted through again.
    Originally posted by Retrogamer
    Nah i've got big patches of the stuff all over my rusty garage door (which needs replacing if anyone know's somebody cheap ).
    My first car (Austin Metro) was practically held together with the stuff, my Kitcar has all it on the trackrod arms, my Vectra has it on one small spot on the bodywork where I found rust bubbling up a few years ago.

    It works by entirely stopping air getting to the metal, rusting of steel is an electrochemical process accelerated by carbonic acid (which acts as an electrolyte), carbonic acid forms when rain water absorbs carbon.... Blah blah etc etc (boring stuff).

    Your wheels, I don't know, complex shape, plenty of area's where rust could remain untouched, possibly even damp, but they certainly wouldn't have been made of the same grade steel as a cars bodywork.
    I've had times where rust has come through, but i've never been able to look back and say "I don't understand, I though I did a really good job of that".

    I admit it's not permanent, eventually after a few years or so, it's going to need attention again, simply because when you put two different materials together, they react differently to stress/heat/cold and eventually crack.

    The only thing with hammerite is you'll ruin a paint brush every time you use it, because the thinners is so expensive that nobody ever buys it..... But you can buy Xylene (the active ingredient in hammerite thinners) nice and cheap from medical/chemical suppliers.
    Last edited by Strider590; 02-07-2013 at 11:16 AM.
    Having the last word isn't the same as being right.......

    "Never confuse education with intelligence"
    • Rain Shadow
    • By Rain Shadow 2nd Jul 13, 11:22 AM
    • 1,397 Posts
    • 2,553 Thanks
    Rain Shadow


    The only thing with hammerite is you'll ruin a paint brush every time you use it, because the thinners is so expensive that nobody ever buys it..... But you can buy Xylene (the active ingredient in hammerite thinners) nice and cheap from medical/chemical suppliers.
    Originally posted by Strider590
    I always cleaned my brushes in in plain old cellulose thinners and it took Hammerite out no problem. A five litre can from a paint factor was dirt cheap. That was about 10-15 years ago. I'm not sure if the regulations allow the sale of thinners to joe public in those quantities now.
    • Strider590
    • By Strider590 2nd Jul 13, 12:37 PM
    • 10,438 Posts
    • 5,754 Thanks
    Strider590
    I always cleaned my brushes in in plain old cellulose thinners and it took Hammerite out no problem. A five litre can from a paint factor was dirt cheap. That was about 10-15 years ago. I'm not sure if the regulations allow the sale of thinners to joe public in those quantities now.
    Originally posted by Rain Shadow
    At some point Hammerite changed their formula (perhaps just before they released the new thinners at a near extortionate price?). Have you tried it recently at all?
    Having the last word isn't the same as being right.......

    "Never confuse education with intelligence"
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