Main site > MoneySavingExpert.com Forums > Household & Travel > Motoring > Best, cheapest way to remove rust from car? (Page 1)

IMPORTANT! This is MoneySavingExpert's open forum - anyone can post

Please exercise caution & report any spam, illegal, offensive, racist, libellous post to forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com

  • Be nice to all MoneySavers
  • All the best tips go in the MoneySavingExpert weekly email

    Plus all the new guides, deals & loopholes

  • No spam/referral links
or Login with Facebook
Best, cheapest way to remove rust from car?
Reply
Views: 1,024
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
# 1
NewFolder
Old 30-06-2013, 5:43 PM
MoneySaving Convert
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 83
Default Best, cheapest way to remove rust from car?

My car is starting to show it's age now, and I've noticed a few areas of rust on the bodywork.

The car isn't worth much as it's rather old, but I want to keep it in a working and roadworthy condition for as long as possible, so I'd like to know of a method that I could use to either remove this rust, or to protect it and prevent it from spreading to other parts of the car, before it needs welding, etc.

I don't want to spend too much, and I'd rather do it myself than take it to a garage or workshop, mainly because of the cost.

It doesn't matter too much if it looks a bit of a mess afterwards as the rust is in quite a well hidden area.
NewFolder is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 2
Strider590
Old 30-06-2013, 6:32 PM
Fantastically Fervent MoneySaving Super Fan
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,779
Default

Wire brush the affect area and paint over with Hammerite, that'll definitely stop it.
Having the last word isn't the same as being right.......

"Never confuse education with intelligence"
Strider590 is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 3
Joe Horner
Old 30-06-2013, 6:51 PM
Fantastically Fervent MoneySaving Super Fan
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Anglesey
Posts: 2,302
Default

The cheapest (and best) way to remove rust is one of these:



The problem is, it leaves you with the more difficult (and expensive) problem of getting rid of the resulting hole

Short of that, sand it back down to clean metal (or as clean as you can get) using emery cloth. Treat the metal with Kurust (or similar) to kill off any remaining rust then use a light skim of body filler to level everything off.

Flat the filler and smooth using progressive grades of wet & dry paper through to about 600 grit, then prime and paint.

Total material costs to get started should be under about 25 quid and a typical rust bubble (assuming it hasn't gone through) shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes of actual working time - plus the time for filler and chemicals to do their job, but you can be starting on the next one while that's happening.

Even if you don't get a great finish, it'll look better than rust (or Hammerite :P )
Joe Horner is online now
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 4
alastairq
Old 30-06-2013, 6:57 PM
Fantastically Fervent MoneySaving Super Fan
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,448
Default

I used one of those......ended up having to get a new car to surround the hole!
No, I don't think all other drivers are idiots......but some are determined to change my mind.......
alastairq is online now
Reply With Quote Report Post
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to alastairq For This Useful Post: Show me >>
# 5
Flying-High
Old 30-06-2013, 7:01 PM
MoneySaving Stalwart
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 736
Default

Rub the rust back... Treat it with Jenolite then paint it. Failing Jenolite theres a good Rust treatment BiltHamber make but can't for the life of me remember what its called.
Flying-High is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
The Following User Says Thank You to Flying-High For This Useful Post: Show me >>
# 6
Quietmanc
Old 30-06-2013, 7:18 PM
MoneySaving Stalwart
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: N.wales
Posts: 284
Default

Is this the one? http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-ub
Quietmanc is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 7
Flying-High
Old 30-06-2013, 7:25 PM
MoneySaving Stalwart
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 736
Default

No that's a cavity wax... Similar to Waxoyl. It's the Hydrate 80
Flying-High is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 8
Retrogamer
Old 30-06-2013, 7:29 PM
Serious MoneySaving Fan
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,623
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strider590 View Post
Wire brush the affect area and paint over with Hammerite, that'll definitely stop it.
It'll stop it for a few months if you're lucky.

I removed rust from my wheels using an angle grinder with wire wheel to bring them back to the bare metal then painted with Hammerite direct to rust paint.
Stored them in my shed for a few months (winter tyres on them) and they had rusted through again.

Kurust will slow it down a little more, but again you won't even get a year out of it.


The best method i'd found is
Angle grinder with wire wheel (or cordless drill with wire wheel for smaller areas)
Treat with Dinitrol RC800 - 2 coats (expensive but it's one of the best out there)
Then if it's underside or out of sight use Ronseal No Rust and if ont he bodywork use bodyfiller then spray over with primer ect.

I spoke to someone who restores classic cars and does a lot of sailing. They painted their boat trailer with Dinitrol and Ronseal years ago and no sign of any rust yet so he's been using it with success on classic car restoration.
Retrogamer is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 9
redux
Old 30-06-2013, 8:32 PM
Deliciously Dedicated Diehard MoneySaving Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,278
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Horner View Post
Short of that, sand it back down to clean metal (or as clean as you can get) using emery cloth. Treat the metal with Kurust (or similar) to kill off any remaining rust then use a light skim of body filler to level everything off.

Flat the filler and smooth using progressive grades of wet & dry paper through to about 600 grit, then prime and paint.

Total material costs to get started should be under about 25 quid and a typical rust bubble (assuming it hasn't gone through) shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes of actual working time - plus the time for filler and chemicals to do their job, but you can be starting on the next one while that's happening.

Even if you don't get a great finish, it'll look better than rust (or Hammerite :P )
One problem is that the filler can hold water, causing the same problems of rust and bubbles in the paint to happen again later.

So if the filler has been wet-sanded, which is usually the case, it's worth some time and heat to make sure it gets better than just touch dry
redux is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 10
demystified
Old 30-06-2013, 10:59 PM
MoneySaving Stalwart
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 260
Default

Not worth the bother in my experience. If theres rust you can see there will be rust you can't see. Won't make one iota of difference when it comes to MOT time anyway. Its purely cosmetic.
demystified is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 11
Ectophile
Old 01-07-2013, 10:15 PM
Serious MoneySaving Fan
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,299
Default

There's a liquid called Kurust that you can paint onto bare rust, and it turns the rust into a purple-black hard surface.

It works well to stop surface rust. But if the problem is that the metal is rusting away from behind, then it's only a very temporary fix.
Ectophile is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 12
colino
Old 02-07-2013, 9:19 AM
Fantastically Fervent MoneySaving Super Fan
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,949
Default

Unfortunately your mild steel car is going to rust. If it is so corroded it is visible, it has to be cut out and replaced. Please don't bother doing it on a runaround, amateur filling, finishing and painting always makes the car look worse. Live with it, have it professionally done or do that "classy" look of putting masking tape all round the car, to your desired height and giving the car a two-tone look with black hammerite.
colino is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 13
Strider590
Old 02-07-2013, 11:12 AM
Fantastically Fervent MoneySaving Super Fan
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,779
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrogamer View Post
It'll stop it for a few months if you're lucky.

I removed rust from my wheels using an angle grinder with wire wheel to bring them back to the bare metal then painted with Hammerite direct to rust paint.
Stored them in my shed for a few months (winter tyres on them) and they had rusted through again.
Nah i've got big patches of the stuff all over my rusty garage door (which needs replacing if anyone know's somebody cheap ).
My first car (Austin Metro) was practically held together with the stuff, my Kitcar has all it on the trackrod arms, my Vectra has it on one small spot on the bodywork where I found rust bubbling up a few years ago.

It works by entirely stopping air getting to the metal, rusting of steel is an electrochemical process accelerated by carbonic acid (which acts as an electrolyte), carbonic acid forms when rain water absorbs carbon.... Blah blah etc etc (boring stuff).

Your wheels, I don't know, complex shape, plenty of area's where rust could remain untouched, possibly even damp, but they certainly wouldn't have been made of the same grade steel as a cars bodywork.
I've had times where rust has come through, but i've never been able to look back and say "I don't understand, I though I did a really good job of that".

I admit it's not permanent, eventually after a few years or so, it's going to need attention again, simply because when you put two different materials together, they react differently to stress/heat/cold and eventually crack.

The only thing with hammerite is you'll ruin a paint brush every time you use it, because the thinners is so expensive that nobody ever buys it..... But you can buy Xylene (the active ingredient in hammerite thinners) nice and cheap from medical/chemical suppliers.
Having the last word isn't the same as being right.......

"Never confuse education with intelligence"

Last edited by Strider590; 02-07-2013 at 11:16 AM.
Strider590 is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 14
Rain Shadow
Old 02-07-2013, 11:22 AM
MoneySaving Stalwart
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 332
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strider590 View Post


The only thing with hammerite is you'll ruin a paint brush every time you use it, because the thinners is so expensive that nobody ever buys it..... But you can buy Xylene (the active ingredient in hammerite thinners) nice and cheap from medical/chemical suppliers.
I always cleaned my brushes in in plain old cellulose thinners and it took Hammerite out no problem. A five litre can from a paint factor was dirt cheap. That was about 10-15 years ago. I'm not sure if the regulations allow the sale of thinners to joe public in those quantities now.
Rain Shadow is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
# 15
Strider590
Old 02-07-2013, 12:37 PM
Fantastically Fervent MoneySaving Super Fan
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,779
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rain Shadow View Post
I always cleaned my brushes in in plain old cellulose thinners and it took Hammerite out no problem. A five litre can from a paint factor was dirt cheap. That was about 10-15 years ago. I'm not sure if the regulations allow the sale of thinners to joe public in those quantities now.
At some point Hammerite changed their formula (perhaps just before they released the new thinners at a near extortionate price?). Have you tried it recently at all?
Having the last word isn't the same as being right.......

"Never confuse education with intelligence"
Strider590 is offline
Reply With Quote Report Post
Reply

Bookmarks
 
 




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 Forum Jump  

Contact Us - MoneySavingExpert.com - Archive - Privacy Statement - Top

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All times are GMT +1. The time now is 8:56 PM.

 Forum Jump  

Free MoneySaving Email

Top deals: Week of 22 October 2014

Get all this & more in MoneySavingExpert's weekly email full of guides, vouchers and Deals

GET THIS FREE WEEKLY EMAIL Full of deals, guides & it's spam free

Latest News & Blogs

Martin's Twitter Feed

profile

Cheap Travel Money

Find the best online rate for holiday cash with MSE's TravelMoneyMax.

Find the best online rate for your holiday cash with MoneySavingExpert's TravelMoneyMax.

TuneChecker Top Albums

  • ED SHEERANX (DELUXE EDITION)
  • STATUS QUOAQUOSTIC (STRIPPED BARE)
  • SAM SMITHIN THE LONELY HOUR (DELUXE EDITION)

MSE's Twitter Feed

profile
Always remember anyone can post on the MSE forums, so it can be very different from our opinion.
We use Skimlinks and other affiliated links in some of our boards, for some of our users.