Overlockers - advice please!

Rikki · 22 May 2007 at 6:34PM

:mad: I've just broken a needle.

I've been going along swimmingly. Playing and trying out every stitch. Basically having fun.

Just set it up to start some real sewing and I bent the needle.

I'm using four threads and I've threaded it according to the instructions. I'm frightened to have another go incase I do it again.

I'll just have to give it another go.

I have a question to: I'm going to make some summer tops. I would normally put a yoke round the neck can I get away with just using a cover stitch? Would you leave a larger seam allowence for the arm holes and neck line?

Mrs_Flittersnoop · 23 May 2007 at 11:36AM

Grrr, how annoying for you :mad: but don't despair, it happens to us all. Maybe you were a bit enthusiastic with feeding the fabric through the needle? I break needles all the time, especially when overlocking elastic onto things when you have to 'taut sew' and keep the elastic stretched - I pull far too hard on the fabric and the needle then bends and snaps

Your summer tops - are these going to be made of jersey fabrics or of summer cotton fabrics? Do you mean a yoke or a facing (a carbon copy of the neckline about two inches deep which you sew onto the right side of the neck and then turn and press?). Are you using a pattern? If so, then the seam allowance already on the pattern should be enough to 'turn and sew' down with your cover stitch, but there's nothing to say you can't add an extra quarter inch or so to the edges if you would feel happier that way until you're used to the machine.

This would work better with stretch fabrics than cottons - I must admit I usually bias bind edges and necklines in simple vest tops, in which case you cut off the seam allowances.

Hope this helps, you can always PM me if you get into trouble.

Mrs F xx

Rikki · 23 May 2007 at 3:38PM

I did mean facing.

The first one is a jersey fabric.

I'm happy sewing with a normal machine, its just the fear I surpose of the overlocker till I get used to it.

I am using a pattern I just wondered if I needed to leave any more fabric. I will try with more first as you suggested.

I'm interested in using bias binding. Do you just turn the edge over and under the bias binding then sew?

Thanks for the offer of help. I hope you don't regret that at a later date. :rotfl:

I'm not even thinking about elastic yet. :eek:

Mrs_Flittersnoop · 23 May 2007 at 4:57PM

No problem, I just wanted to understand your dilemma properly

The binding is a nice finish (done on the sewing machine though, so less practice for you!). Pin (and tack if you're not entirely confident yet) the binding to the neckline right sides together and machine with a 5mm (1/4 inch) seam away from the neckline. Stretch the binding a teeny tiny bit round the scoopy bit of the neckline at the front so that it pulls the neck into the body a bit (wish I could actually show you how to do this, it's a lot easier than typing it:rotfl: ). Make sure that your seam allowances measure exactly 5mm (1/4 inch) if not, trim to right width. Wrap the binding round the neckline and either turn under the raw edge and slip stitch it by hand (:eek: !) over the seam line or turn it under, pin and then 'stitch in the ditch' on the right side, catching the raw edge as you go.

It's easiest if you leave open one shoulder seam and put the binding round the neckline, then seam the shoulder, catching the edges of the binding in the seam - makes it neater. The armholes can be done the same way, apply the binding before you sew up the side seams.

Phew! hope this isn't as clear as mud! Let me know if it is!
Mrs F x

juno · 24 May 2007 at 8:29PM

dannahaz wrote: »

Another person who has to ask: What is an overlocker? How does it differ to a sewing machine?

One parakeet, and a normal seam: 10 mins, and all unpicked.

One parakeet, and an overlocked seam: 3 days, and about hald a cm of cotton is looking frayed but the seam is fine.

That's the difference

inedinburgh · 2 June 2007 at 12:27PM

i'm looking to buy an overlocker too (and i'm new to them) and i came across this book online that looks worth a read "Sewing with Sergers: The Complete Handbook for Overlock Sewing" by Gail Brown & Patti Palmer which apparently gives advice on what to look for when buying one as well as how to use them and what they can be used for: i've found them on amazon.co.uk for under £2 i've looked for it in the local library catalogue without any luck though

jet_black_3 · 5 June 2007 at 5:20PM

I inherited my Mum's Riccar overlocker which is about 15 years old, it's a brilliant machine until it comes to threading, that is an effin' nightmare. I want to save for a new one which is easier to thread

Rikki · 25 June 2007 at 4:19PM

Advice needed.......

How do I sew elastic with an overlocker?

I have the foot with attachments for various thicknesses of elastic, but what type of elastic and how?

Mrs_Flittersnoop · 26 June 2007 at 8:20AM

Hi Rikki, what is it you're sewing? I have only used my ordinary overlocking foot for elastic.

You sew elastic on in much the same way as you would using a sewing machine. Whatever you do, do NOT SEW OVER PINS, you will damage or break the cutting knife (ask me how I know this :rolleyes: ). Pin the elastic to the edge or whatever it is you're sewing, having stretched it evenly along the edge and pinned it at intervals (pins placed at right angles help to keep the elastic under control), then carefully start overlocking the two edges (i.e. the elastic and the fabric) together TAKING OUT THE PINS BEFORE THE KNIFE GETS THERE :rotfl::rotfl:. You have to stretch the elastic with your left hand as well as trying to control the fabric underneath it with your right and also guide the whole shebang under the foot, it IS possible, despite looking and sounding complicated, just takes practice.

I would suggest you try something fairly simple first, like maybe an elasticated waistband which is a reasonably long run of stitching.

I use soft elastic for waistbands which is about 20mm wide, I haven't tried getting it over here but usually buy it in reels from the States, where they call it 'pajama elastic'. It's soft and wide and has good recovery. Let me know if you want me to post a link.

It sounds like your overlocker is much more advanced than mine, presumably all your elastic 'feet' make life much easier.

HTH
Mrs Fx

Rikki · 26 June 2007 at 12:29PM

Thank you once again Mrs Flittersnoop. A link would be appreciated.

I had a near miss with a pin over the weekend.

I'm so used to pinning so I can sew over them with a normal machine.

The foot I've got looks like it feeds the elastic in on top with the fabric feeding in underneath as normal and then joins them as it stitches. I assume I have to stretch the elastic as it feeds in.

It sound like it would be easier your way as you can attach the elastic more accurately for a waistband.

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Overlockers - advice please!

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