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  • FIRST POST
    • bxboards
    • By bxboards 7th Jul 18, 8:10 AM
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    bxboards
    Replacing large old fashioned 6'' x 6'' cooker switches (MK K5011 not suitable)
    • #1
    • 7th Jul 18, 8:10 AM
    Replacing large old fashioned 6'' x 6'' cooker switches (MK K5011 not suitable) 7th Jul 18 at 8:10 AM
    Hi

    I'm doing some work in my kitchen and am re-tiling shortly.

    The cooker switch is really big, about 6 inches square with a large plate that surrounds the switch and covers the void. The pattress box is about 3 inches deep too, all much large than more modern switches which tend to be the same size as a double 13a power socket.

    Has anyone seen anywhere to buy these, if possible I'd be happy to just replace the old switch and rusty plate to save digging out the old backbox and replacing with a smaller one. The brand is MK.

    Couple of photos of the current switch:




    Anyone seen anywhere to buy these new?
    Last edited by bxboards; 10-07-2018 at 1:53 PM.
Page 1
    • casper_g
    • By casper_g 7th Jul 18, 8:51 AM
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    casper_g
    • #2
    • 7th Jul 18, 8:51 AM
    • #2
    • 7th Jul 18, 8:51 AM
    Something like an MK K5011 would cover the hole. The back of is only 55mm deep but it's a lot easier to pack out the depth than to make the hole smaller.

    Details here - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK5011.html
    • DigForVictory
    • By DigForVictory 7th Jul 18, 9:23 AM
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    DigForVictory
    • #3
    • 7th Jul 18, 9:23 AM
    • #3
    • 7th Jul 18, 9:23 AM
    <Having happy flashbacks to childhood - that switch meant hot food!>

    All the best with your beautiful modern new tiled kitchen & thank you for reminding me of happier past times.
    • bxboards
    • By bxboards 7th Jul 18, 9:58 AM
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    bxboards
    • #4
    • 7th Jul 18, 9:58 AM
    • #4
    • 7th Jul 18, 9:58 AM
    Something like an MK K5011 would cover the hole. The back of is only 55mm deep but it's a lot easier to pack out the depth than to make the hole smaller.

    Details here - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK5011.html
    Originally posted by casper_g
    Thanks, that looks perfect - I really appreciate the link I spent ages looking at various places and drew a blank!
    • bris
    • By bris 7th Jul 18, 10:14 AM
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    bris
    • #5
    • 7th Jul 18, 10:14 AM
    • #5
    • 7th Jul 18, 10:14 AM
    You will be tiling anyway so why not just rip it out and put in a more up to date switch and make Good? it would be easy enough to fit a metal box and make good. You can even get really long screws to secure the cooker switch.


    It's best to do this now whilst it's all exposed.
    • FreeBear
    • By FreeBear 7th Jul 18, 11:46 AM
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    FreeBear
    • #6
    • 7th Jul 18, 11:46 AM
    • #6
    • 7th Jul 18, 11:46 AM
    You will be tiling anyway so why not just rip it out and put in a more up to date switch and make Good? it would be easy enough to fit a metal box and make good. You can even get really long screws to secure the cooker switch.


    It's best to do this now whilst it's all exposed.
    Originally posted by bris
    Fitting a new back box isn't difficult - The space top/bottom/back can be filled out with mortar quite easily. The only problem would be extending the conduit, assuming there is some already in place. Worst case, chasing out the wall to fit an appropriate conduit would be an option. If the OP were to do that, I'd suggest using 25mm conduit so that a larger cable could be fitted if it ever needs upgrading. And use a 47mm deep back box to give plenty of room for the cables.

    Doing that sort of work now means you can have the switch where you want, and also matches up with the other sockets & switches in the kitchen.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
    • tacpot12
    • By tacpot12 7th Jul 18, 12:42 PM
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    tacpot12
    • #7
    • 7th Jul 18, 12:42 PM
    • #7
    • 7th Jul 18, 12:42 PM
    I wouldn't replace it, It will clean up perfectly, and could even be resprayed to match the kitchen better.
    • Rodders53
    • By Rodders53 7th Jul 18, 1:30 PM
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    Rodders53
    • #8
    • 7th Jul 18, 1:30 PM
    • #8
    • 7th Jul 18, 1:30 PM
    MK K5011 https://www.mkelectric.com/en-my/Products/WD/white/logicplus/cookercontrols/45AMPmetalflush/Pages/K5011WHI.aspx is what you need. Still sold today.

    About £36 from Amazon and other retailers.
    • bxboards
    • By bxboards 8th Jul 18, 10:49 AM
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    bxboards
    • #9
    • 8th Jul 18, 10:49 AM
    • #9
    • 8th Jul 18, 10:49 AM
    You will be tiling anyway so why not just rip it out and put in a more up to date switch and make Good? it would be easy enough to fit a metal box and make good. You can even get really long screws to secure the cooker switch.


    It's best to do this now whilst it's all exposed.
    Originally posted by bris
    Thanks, I hummed and harred about changing it - and still am!

    Reason for keeping 'as is' - my house is a 250-ish year old cottage so being up to date can sometimes be inappropriate. Also the current switch used to serve one of those tall stand alone cookers, that have a back with switches that extend past the worktops. The switch is really actually too high now for the worktop embedded hob, and ideally I'd lower it, but there the exposed 10mm cable isn't long enough to drop it or relocate at all, so in this case the excessive surround of the old switch helps to 'centre' it a bit.

    But in an ideal world, I'd probably change it, and did consider that a lot, as certainly the newer smaller stuff is cheaper, but due to the cables being embedded in the wall, I'm a bit stuck for options.

    I appreciate the post, always good to have another opinion, as it's all too easy to go full steam ahead without considering other options
    • shaun from Africa
    • By shaun from Africa 8th Jul 18, 12:54 PM
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    shaun from Africa
    Thanks, I hummed and harred about changing it - and still am!

    Reason for keeping 'as is' - my house is a 250-ish year old cottage so being up to date can sometimes be inappropriate.
    Originally posted by bxboards


    If you want to replace it and keep it looking almost the same, how about this one from MK?
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK5011.html?source=adwords&ad_position=1o2&ad_id= 45425533757&placement=&kw=&network=g&matchtype=&ad _type=pla&product_id=MKK5011&product_partition_id= 174043015267&test=finalurl_v2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw8 fEjLiP3AIVlZ3VCh100gMrEAQYAiABEgK8a_D_BwE
    • Gloomendoom
    • By Gloomendoom 8th Jul 18, 3:49 PM
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    Gloomendoom
    I wouldn't replace it, It will clean up perfectly, and could even be resprayed to match the kitchen better.
    Originally posted by tacpot12
    That is exactly what we are going to do with ours. It certainly isn't going to be replaced.
    “Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.” - Mark Twain
    • bxboards
    • By bxboards 10th Jul 18, 1:52 PM
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    bxboards
    Just thought I'd update - the MK K5011 as suggested arrived today, but sadly not suitable. Looks very similiar but they've changed the sizes of the screws that screw into the existing pattress box (too big)

    Sadly the screws have some sort of collar on them as otherwise I'd simply re-use the screws from the old unit in the new, but as they have a collar to allow depth to be adjusted back and forward, this isn't the drop in replacement I hoped for.

    Going to send it back, and may need to think about something else!
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 10th Jul 18, 2:17 PM
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    Risteard
    Because the old screws had imperial threads. Easy sported.

    Any Electrician can do this for you. Also, if you do this yourself you almost certainly won't tighten the connections correctly.
    Last edited by Risteard; 10-07-2018 at 2:26 PM.
    • Rodders53
    • By Rodders53 10th Jul 18, 3:16 PM
    • 467 Posts
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    Rodders53
    M 3.5 screws are standard on all electrical fitting back boxes... Look for < rethreading tool M3.5 > via Google.

    Or M3.5 tap (as in tap and die from school metalworking lessons)
    • shaun from Africa
    • By shaun from Africa 10th Jul 18, 3:35 PM
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    shaun from Africa
    Because the old screws had imperial threads. Easy sported.

    Any Electrician can do this for you. Also, if you do this yourself you almost certainly won't tighten the connections correctly.
    Originally posted by Risteard
    As can most people who have reasonable DIY skills and the right tools for the job and are you honestly saying that a qualified electrician is needed to ensure that a few screws are tightened correctly?
    • bxboards
    • By bxboards 10th Jul 18, 3:42 PM
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    bxboards
    I've sorted it, I took the old brass screws off the old one, had to chisel off the collars fixing the screws in place on the brackets. Had to remove steel screws from new unit, and swap to older brass, then flatten out the collars to fit back on old screws so they stay in place on the brackets!

    All sorted and working!

    Strange they didn't keep the old screw thread size!
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 10th Jul 18, 3:59 PM
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    Risteard
    Strange they didn't keep the old screw thread size!
    Originally posted by bxboards
    It really isn't strange given that I already explained they were imperial threads rather than metric threads.
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 10th Jul 18, 4:00 PM
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    Risteard
    are you honestly saying that a qualified electrician is needed to ensure that a few screws are tightened correctly?
    Originally posted by shaun from Africa
    I am honestly stating that DIYers never correctly tighten electrical terminals. That is a fact, which often gives rise to the risk of fire.
    • bxboards
    • By bxboards 10th Jul 18, 4:18 PM
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    bxboards
    It really isn't strange given that I already explained they were imperial threads rather than metric threads.
    Originally posted by Risteard
    I don't think it makes sense to change screw sizes, as presumably the majority of folks buying this are likely to be replacing older rusted units - I think it would be reasonable to assume those could be imperial.

    At the very least I think it would be useful if MK made mention of it - as it happens it was fairly easy to sort with a bit of brute force. Or supply both sets of screws in the box and make it easier to swap out, certainly the screws are not designed to be removed as it stands.
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 10th Jul 18, 4:30 PM
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    Risteard
    I don't think it makes sense to change screw sizes, as presumably the majority of folks buying this are likely to be replacing older rusted units - I think it would be reasonable to assume those could be imperial.

    At the very least I think it would be useful if MK made mention of it - as it happens it was fairly easy to sort with a bit of brute force. Or supply both sets of screws in the box and make it easier to swap out, certainly the screws are not designed to be removed as it stands.
    Originally posted by bxboards
    MK have no choice. Backboxes are required to have metric threads to meet the appropriate British Standard.
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