Plaster(near window) came off while scrapping the paint

Rock_007 · 17 September 2017 at 8:40PM

During scrapping the paint of the wall, some plaster came off near the windows can see clear wire net so i think in the past there was attempted to repair this plaster.
Can some one please recommend any specific plaster or Mortar Mix that i should use to repair this portion of Plaster and if any special tools are needed to do it( as the portion of the wall is up side down)
Any comment highly appreciated.

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flashg67 · 17 September 2017 at 8:54PM

You can buy ' one coat plaster' but will need to do in stages - max on the one I used was 15mm or so for each layer, plus it's harder to get a smooth finish that doesn't need sanding. The 'normal' way would be a coat of bonding plaster, followed by a thin layer of skim, but usually only available in big bags
A normal plasterer's float should do the job tool-wise

Rock_007 · 17 September 2017 at 9:32PM

flashg67 wrote: »

You can buy ' one coat plaster' but will need to do in stages - max on the one I used was 15mm or so for each layer, plus it's harder to get a smooth finish that doesn't need sanding. The 'normal' way would be a coat of bonding plaster, followed by a thin layer of skim, but usually only available in big bags
A normal plasterer's float should do the job tool-wise

Thanks, but do you think bonding plaster will hold itself as the surface is upside down?

Also i am not very familiar with the plaster, what i got form the above post is that i will need two types of plater 1) one coat plaster 2) bonding plaster if i am not wrong.

FreeBear · 18 September 2017 at 12:26AM

Rock_007 wrote: »

Thanks, but do you think bonding plaster will hold itself as the surface is upside down?

Also i am not very familiar with the plaster, what i got form the above post is that i will need two types of plater 1) one coat plaster 2) bonding plaster if i am not wrong.

Bonding plaster will stick to the overhead bit - Just don't apply it too thick or too wet & sloppy. I'd also hack out that last bit that has cracked and apply a PVA/water mix first (it will help adhere to the cement underneath).

Buying 25Kg bags of bonding & finishing plaster is going to be very wasteful for such a small job. The stuff doesn't keep, so you'd end up having to dispose of most of it. If you know someone in the building trade, they might be able to get you a part bag of each (5Kg would probably be more than enough).

As for plasters, there is a whole long list. Some below -

Bonding plaster (used as a base coat up to 11mm thick)
Finishing plaster (the final skim coat, usually around 3mm thick)
Magnetic plaster - You won't want this. An expensive substitute for a magnetic board.
One coat plaster - Often sold to the DIYer and can be a pig to work with.
Self leveling plaster - As above, and debatable as to whether it does "self level".

Lime plasters - Unless you are working on a period property, you don't want to know

Venetian plaster & tadelakt - Lime based, labour intensive, and very expensive (but worth it in the right setting).

Rock_007 · 18 September 2017 at 12:22PM

FreeBear wrote: »

Bonding plaster will stick to the overhead bit - Just don't apply it too thick or too wet & sloppy. I'd also hack out that last bit that has cracked and apply a PVA/water mix first (it will help adhere to the cement underneath).

Buying 25Kg bags of bonding & finishing plaster is going to be very wasteful for such a small job. The stuff doesn't keep, so you'd end up having to dispose of most of it. If you know someone in the building trade, they might be able to get you a part bag of each (5Kg would probably be more than enough).

As for plasters, there is a whole long list. Some below -

Bonding plaster (used as a base coat up to 11mm thick)
Finishing plaster (the final skim coat, usually around 3mm thick)
Magnetic plaster - You won't want this. An expensive substitute for a magnetic board.
One coat plaster - Often sold to the DIYer and can be a pig to work with.
Self leveling plaster - As above, and debatable as to whether it does "self level".

Lime plasters - Unless you are working on a period property, you don't want to know
Venetian plaster & tadelakt - Lime based, labour intensive, and very expensive (but worth it in the right setting).

Thanks for your advise,
The depth i need to cover is more than 11mm i think, so may need to do couple of times and is it okay to give couple of hours to let it settle down before applying another layer of 11mm bounding plaster.
Also for PVA i have read somewhere the ratio between PVA/water should be 3:1 if that is correct?

i have found one at B&Q should this be alright to use it for my purpose ( i will buy 25Kg as there are other couple of similar patches in the house that needs to be done)
1) (THISTLE BONDING COAT UNDERCOAT PLASTER 25KG)
2) CEMENTONE PVA5L

anto164 · 18 September 2017 at 2:30PM

if in doubt, just get a plasterer in, shouldn't be expensive. Plastering is an art, and if done badly can look terrible.

Rock_007 · 18 September 2017 at 3:00PM

anto164 wrote: »

if in doubt, just get a plasterer in, shouldn't be expensive. Plastering is an art, and if done badly can look terrible.

I would but they are fully booked for months and i am looking to move house within a month.

bris · 18 September 2017 at 5:09PM

I use this stuff from Screwfix http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-ready-mixed-plaster-white-10kg/23226

Cant rate it highly enough. It needs to be layered on over a few days, but when built up its easy to sand to a smooth finish for an invisible repair.

Just don't be tempted to make the layers to thick.

minibbb · 18 September 2017 at 5:10PM

Look at toupret interior filler (the powdered one) specs state is has no max depth.

I used it for a similar depth hole around a socket and it was perfect. I would fill yours in three sessions. It sands v easily and I achieved a perfect finish- you would never know it had been repaired now.

Rock_007 · 11 October 2017 at 8:41PM

i opted for re plastering all the rooms....

My plaster put the pva and then put the coating of plaster but just a day after he replastered the walls i can see some sort of cracks in it . is any one has any idea what are these cracks and if we can do something about it ....
Any comments really appreciated

TheCyclingProgrammer · 11 October 2017 at 8:52PM

You need to get the plasterer back.

A few hairline cracks in new plaster is normal. What you’ve got there looks to me like the plaster has dried out far too quickly, possibly due to poor preparation. What was under the skim before in that spot?

I think it might have to be reskimmed.

Plaster(near window) came off while scrapping the paint

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