Advice on Double glazing - Forewarned is forwarmed!

childofbaahl · 9 March 2017 at 5:26AM

Sorry if this isn't quite the right fit but this seemed the best place to ask and I will be updating with quotes as I go.

So... I am looking at replacing 4 windows at the back of my property within the next year and will be getting quotes from companies over the next month or so to get ideas of cost and what sums to save up for. I'm based on the south coast in East Sussex and this will be the first time I've ever dealt with replacement windows and I have no real idea of what I should be looking for. To that end I thought it prudent to check here for advice on what to ask and what to look out for before I get the companies in so that they can provide the most accurate quotes and I can get the right kind of windows for my needs.

Getting down to it - The windows that are in the property at the back are 25+ year old aluminium framed double glazing. They are all large square lower panes with smaller rectangular upper panes that open out and I would like to keep that style apart from one of the lower windows which I would also like to have a lower opening so I can get a set of ladders in and out.

I am replacing them as 3 of the 4 have what I think is termed as blown seals and the upper opening panes are actually cloudy. the windows don't seal fully anymore and most are draughty and don't really stand up to snuff when trying to keep the heat in. The surrounds are all wooden and quite thick so they'll have to be replaced which will probably affect the cost too. I can take photos and find a way to upload if that helps, let me know.

I'm looking for standard white uPVC frames with nothing special or fancy really. No lead or designs apart from obscured glass for the bathroom upstairs. My neighbours' windows are plain and simple so would be in keeping with the area I suppose. The back of the house has never been especially loud or disruptive and I sleep with ear plugs when working nights but I would want good thermal retention and well made as I plan to stay in my home for a long time to come.

Specifics:
Dining room = 1100cm x 1800cm (fixed pane next to a side opening pane with a full length horizontal opening above them)
Kitchen = 1100cm x 1550cm (fixed pane with horizontal opening above)
Bedroom = 1100cm x 1600cm (could go with either of the dining room or kitchen styles)
Bathroom = 950cm x 1200cm (obscured glass but same as kitchen with a trickle vent for humidity regulation.)

I'm not 100% settled on the design as I may go for the 2 opening design throughout, not sure if the solitary horizontal opening at the top above a large square pane will be difficult if modern windows are mass produced (all be it to order.) Maybe there's some sort of health and safety aspect to building regs' that state there must be fire safety aspects so people can get out in case of emergencies... I have read here that national companies charge per frame (say 5 for a bay window and not sure how that would work if I go for the large fixed pane and smaller opening above) Sorry if I'm making a fool of myself but thought it best to ask those in the know then get ripped off by a salesman who thinks he can take me for a ride as I'm not in the know.

With regard to materials I have done some preliminary research and read up on R-rating and U-rating so I'm good there but I don't really know many types of glass other then Pilkington-K and that's mainly through being bombarded with it from adverts between Coronation street growing up.

Let me know if there's anything else that could be of use that I can provide and thank you in advance for taking the time to read this lengthy piece and for any and all help that is given.

thebaldwindowfitter · 9 March 2017 at 9:46PM

Around £1500 up ere in the north in white

childofbaahl · 20 March 2017 at 1:46PM

Safestyle quote:

4 'Eco Diamond' windows (Pilkington Optifloat outer and K inner) with 4 relines due to wooden surrounds to old windows;
U rating of 1.4;
Toughened glass in 2 of the 4 due to distance from floor and obscured glass in bathroom;
;
£2600.

childofbaahl · 22 March 2017 at 4:34PM

Local quote 1:
4 Deceuninck '2500' windows with 4 full relines due to old box sash surrounds;
U rating of 1.3;
Toughened glass as above;
Same design as above;
£2500 or
£2040 for a part box sash removal where they just line the inner most side of the window in Upvc

childofbaahl · 30 March 2017 at 5:23PM

Local quote 2:
4 Kommerling windows with 4 full relines due to old box sash surrounds;
U rating of 1.4 (Specification email states 'A+' rated but the quotation says 'Low E (A Rated)'!;
No mention of toughened glass;
Same design as previous;
£2100.

So this is by far the cheapest and seems to be the same specification as the previous apart from the toughened glass. I could go back to the previous local 'Deceuninck' company and see if they'll match but from what I can see the companies are interchangeable really.

Both local companies have good reputations that I can see and the Kommerling is only down the road so would be easier to deal with.

Anyone have any preference between the two windows? The Deceuninck website has a lot of specification and statistical data where as the Kommerling website doesn't have anything at all that I can see to show U rating or answer the A+ or A rating question. Waiting to hear back from the company about it now.

Furts · 30 March 2017 at 5:35PM

The Buildings Regulations stipulate where toughened glass should be used. This is a safety issue - heights above ground and besides doors. Basically where someone could fall through the glass. You could go laminated if you are really concerned about safety and security. As an example I have done this on my home.

You need to determine why one company quotes for toughened and the other does not. Safety is your responsibility - it is your home after all.

childofbaahl · 31 March 2017 at 9:24AM

I think one company might not have realised the two windows were that close to the ground, it is only a matter of centimeters difference.

childofbaahl · 10 April 2017 at 4:53AM

Final update - The 3rd company got back to me and stated that the quote included toughened glass and that they hadn't mentioned it at the time or in the quote as it was a building regulation and as such didn't affect the look of the project...

After speaking to the 2nd company we haggled the price down to £2300 and I'm happy to go with them. I had the best gut feeling with their agent then the others and to be honest though the 3rd company were £200 cheaper their quotation document had a few holes in it and didn't leave me with complete confidence.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and to those that commented.

Martin_Clift · 7 June 2017 at 12:12PM

Hi
New to the forum and I'm not sure this is the right place for this post.

I need help regarding 'OLD' double glazing. and draughty and damp area.
My window goes right down to the floor and after many years we have noticed damp spots on the curtain lining, so I decided to redecorate and get new carpets. When I pulled the carpet up I found that the floor boards did not go right to the double glazing, some were large enough to get my fingers into. The gap had been covered by the carpet which obviously stopped the draught. The outside of the house is ship-lapped and appears to be sound, I have checked under the lead flashing and that appears to be sound an dry, but the wind and damp is coming in somewhere. The only place I cant check is where the window sits on an outside UPVC ledge where some sort of beading has been used.

1) Should the floor-boards go right up to the window?
2) How do I find and stop the draught and damp?

Do I need the window taken out and re-fitted, or should I replace the said window?

Many thanks
Martin

childofbaahl · 1 July 2017 at 12:07AM

You'd be better starting your own thread as some may not read this old one - Best of luck with your issue.

Advice on Double glazing - Forewarned is forwarmed!

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