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    • Happychappy
    • By Happychappy 16th Mar 09, 9:00 PM
    • 2,701Posts
    • 2,651Thanks
    How much to change an old fuse box
    • #1
    • 16th Mar 09, 9:00 PM
    How much to change an old fuse box 16th Mar 09 at 9:00 PM

    I have an old Wylex type fuse box around 30 years old and need it updating to a new board with RCB's, also the fuse box is currently fitted on one side of a wall and I need it fixing onto the other side, a distance of less than a metre from where it is now ? any ideas on a rough guide price. The current earth wires to the water and gas is 6mm.
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  • dwarvenassassin
    • #2
    • 19th Mar 09, 8:45 PM
    • #2
    • 19th Mar 09, 8:45 PM
    * Removed Double Post Caused By Session Time-out *
    Last edited by dwarvenassassin; 19-03-2009 at 8:52 PM. Reason: double post
  • dwarvenassassin
    • #3
    • 19th Mar 09, 8:51 PM
    • #3
    • 19th Mar 09, 8:51 PM
    What is the rating of your supply (supplier fuse size 60A, 80A, 100A) as this will determine the size of Main Protective Bonding (to water, gas, etc.)
    Moving a Consumer Unit even 2 inches without a complete rewire is usually impossible, so 1 metre is out of the question.
    The cost of the work is dependant on how many circuits you have (number of fuses you have is a good guide, but sometimes inaccurate)

    Basically to do it properly you are looking at having a full Periodic Inspection Report (not just a visual) to ensure the work can actually be done without incurring additional problems (and therefore costs) plus at least half a days labour plus materials - I'd say 500 - 600.

    There are cheaper options, it all depends how much risk you want take and how many call-out fees you want to pay trying to get an electrician to find and correct all the faults your nice new, SENSITIVE, RCBO's are showing up.

    Some companies will try to sell you a Consumer Unit with 2 RCD's and ordinary MCB's. While these do 'just about' comply with the requirements, I would recommend having all RCBO's fitted as this minimises the impact of any fault on the rest of the circuits and even avoids some issues. The prices of the two methods are not dis-similar and the added benefit of the RCBO method is worth any minor price increase.

    Oh, and use a NAPIT/ECA/NICEIC/etc. registered firm and make sure you get an Installation Certificate. If you decide to go down the 'PIR first' route, watch for firms trying to drum up work. PIRs can only contain observations, things like "Needs replacing" or "Needs rewire" are not valid and should trigger alarms.
    Also, PIR observations are coded 1 (Serious, Immediate Attention) to 4 (Doesn't meet current regs.)
    Ask the Inspector (not all sparks are qualified inspectors) to explain why each Code 1 or Code 2 is given as such. If he doesn't sound like he knows, get a 2nd opinion from a 2nd firm.
    A good inspector should be able to explain all the reasons for his observations calmly, clearly, and suscinctly and without resorting to "thats what they recommend" or "coz thats what it says in the book" type answers.

    I would personally recommend NAPIT registered Electricians because NAPIT register the man and not the company, and all their members are qualified Inspectors. The NICEIC only register the firm. One man can be both Manager and Supervisor and employ as many "electricians" (*cough*) as he wants.

    Hope this all helps towards your decision...
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