Air Source Heat Pump Advice

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Good evening all,

There are several threads on ASHPs on this site and I have read all of them I think. This has been very helpful as there is lots of information on there that I didn't know or confirmed what I thought.

We had storage heaters for many years and had the same problems as everybody else with rubbish heat and massive bills so last summer we took the plunge, ripped the whole lot out and put a NIBE 12kw ashp in, complete with a new wet central heating system. All the rads are larger and were specifically sized to work with the ASHP. We also re insulated the loft to try and make the house as insulated as we could manage. (it is an old stone farm cottage in the middle of nowhere.

I am having something of an argument with my installer - he has set the heating curve so that at 0 deg c the flow temperature to the radiators is 51 deg c. I know that would be far too warm for underfloor but what is the view about radiators? I think it is too warm as we are struggling to get the house down to the preset temperatures!!!

I have turned it down because it was roasting the other night and the flow temp at 0 deg c is now 48 deg C. Does anybody have a view on whether this is right?

One final question. My pump seems to come on for the heating, even when the house is set to be cooler and the temp in the house is several degrees above what is set on the controler? Does anybody know why this happens?

Any feddback would be much appreciated as all of this is obviously going to have a direct bearing on our electricity bills!

Thank you!

Comments

  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,608 Forumite
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    Try turning the flow temp down until the place is comfortable - it took me a whole winter to get mine tweaked. My heat curve goes from 40 degrees at zero outside to 25 degrees when it's 15 outside but we've got u/f heating.

    How is the heatpump controlled - has it got a room stat, where is it situated. Does it turn the pump on & off. How is the system configured, do you have a buffer tank.
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  • john_d_C
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    Thanks for coming back. Yes it has a room stat by the front door. I think this is one of the things that we will have to get used to. Because the room stat is downstairs by the door where there tends to be more air movement, it is generally a lower temp than upstairs where the heat rises and just sits under the massive load of insulation we now have in the loft.

    Yes it does turn the pump on and off and yes we have a buffer tank so I guess the pump will be coming on to heat the buffer tank, even if the house heating is set relatively low?
  • brianposter
    brianposter Posts: 1,291 Forumite
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    As I understand our system, the central circuit heats up even if no heating is required - the themostats only control the valves off that heated circuit. And the thermostats themselves appear to be far less precise than we were told by the installer.
  • Andy_WSM
    Andy_WSM Posts: 2,217 Forumite
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    As Matelodave has already said, experiment. Every system and property is different. My system is currently set to a 44C flow and that is plenty. The lower the flow temperature the more efficient the heat pump will run = lower energy bills. Bottom line is that you only need the flow temp as high as it needs to be to bring the rooms up to temperature in a reasonable time.
  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,608 Forumite
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    edited 21 January 2019 at 11:13AM
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    I'd be very inclined to get a programmable wireless thermostat then you could locate it in the best place to suit your heating & lifestyle.By the front door is never a good place for a thermostat

    As said before turn the flow temperature down a few degrees and see how it works out. keep tweaking it down until it's not hot enough or doesn't heat the place fast enough and then turn it up a bit.

    Most heatpumps are spec'd at a flow temp of 35 degrees when it's 7 degrees outside so if it's colder outside or your flow temperature is higher than then efficiency will suffer and cost will increase.

    We dont have a buffer tank so the heatpump works like a conventional boiler, feeding a diverter valve, either to heating or the hot water tank.

    Because we've got zoned u/f heating we have eight programmable stats each of which switch on the heating and circulating pump and open the flow valves on the appropriate zone. We dont let the house get cold - the stats just back off the temperature to around 17 degrees otherwise it takes too long for the temperatures to recover. This time of the year the heating will sometimes run all night.

    You could try running yours for a bit longer at a lower temperature and monitoring your energy consumption to see how it gets affected. Get an energy monitor to see whats happening and when, like this https://www.energyhive.com/dashboard/dave

    We only heat our hot water to 45 degrees for an hour or so a day which we find is hot enough and sufficient for our needs. It boosts up to 60 degrees once a week to sterilse the tank.

    The other thing that bashes your bills is using the back-up heater or boost heater. Most heatpumps wont push the temperature above 50-55 degrees so it you want water hooter than that then an immersion heater of some sort kicks in.

    Do you have yours on an E7 or single rate tariff - mine is on a single rate because it runs virtually all the time, I've no experience of a system with a buffer tank so I dont know how much heat storage you've got to make an E7 tarrif work effectively. Perhaps others could advise
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  • money_saving_3
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    Would you recommend having na Air Source Heat Pump? I have a condensing boiler at the moment so how much difference will it make to my fuel bills? I was also wondering about my friends property which only has electricity. Will it be beneficial for her to get an ASHP installed? They are very expensive as it is.
  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,608 Forumite
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    mains gas central heating is cheaper to run and more responsive than any sort of electric heating including heatpumps so I wouldn't be tempted or persuaded to install a heatpump if I had gas. 

    Regarding your friend, thats a decision that only she can make. As you say they are expensive to install especially if she has to have a complete installation. They can be more economical to run than storage heaters BUT and it's a big but, the system has to be designed correctly, installed and set up correctly and most important of all used correctly. Beacuse they run at low temperatures, they need to be on longer, they dont heat the place as fast as a conventional boiler, they need larger radiators with lower flow temperatures and ideally you need lower hot water temperatures. Many people are unhappy with them for that very reason and so crank them up which significantly increases their running costs.

    We've had ours for ten years and it works for us and i reckon it's paid for it'self in that time both in lower heating bills and because we get RHI payments totalling around £5k. but we've learned how to use it properly and we've got reasonable insulation. 


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