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Bike for commute to work - £200 budget
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There are so many good bikes around at bargain prices that it doesn't make sense to buy the wrong size.underhanded wrote: »..In regards to the Wingra, the guy who is selling it has told me its a 17 inch - to me sounds a little on the small side, but he said I can of cours try it first to see how it feels - would a slightly small bike be a big disadvantage if I did decide to go for it?...
You need to sit on and ride a bike to see if it is right for you but 17 inches sounds a bit small for "5'11 with small legs".
I'm 5'10 with average 31 inch inside leg and 17 inch frame is usually too small for me. 18 to 20 inches suits me best.
You want to avoid a small bike where you need the saddle way up high etc.
That doesn't mean that Wingra will be too small. Manufacturers sizes vary considerably and it might be ok. You need to sit on it, preferably with an experienced cyclist whom you trust to comment and advise you.
Try not to rely just on the guy selling it, no matter how good a mate he might be. His interests are not the same as yours.0 -
When you're sitting on the bike you need to check a couple of things.
Basically, with the pedal all the way down and the ball of your foot on the pedal your leg should be 'almost' fully extended but not quite fully extended(you don't want to be locking your knee on each circle of the pedal but getting close to it).
Once you've got that position you then need to look at how high the seat is. You don't want the seat pole extended all the way out because you're just compromising the integrity of the seat pole and it's more likely to snap or bend.
There's plenty of youtube videos on riding position so you know what to look for.0 -
Almost all new bikes are overpriced beyond belief and will delivery very little value for the extra money you spend. I can explain in depth, but in short what you want to look for is an all-steel framed bike with the simplest construction possible- no shock absorbers in the front forks, for example. The last time I looked, Halfords were selling one for about £120. Job done.
A couple of other notes. Do take it back for the free 6 week service they'll offer you. It will need to have the cables tightened up because new cable naturally stretch in use. If you do this, you'll probably get a good year's cycling before you need to consider your next move.
You say you've cycled round Bristol before, so you probably know how to change a tyre, but if you don't then learn now! BTW, don't muck about with puncture repair kits- carry a spare inner tube or two.
Finally, get a spray cleaner and a chain lubricant. There are some good cleaners out there and at least one has a manual spray with a high pressure nozzle that just knocks the dirt clean off- use it every month or so on your gears and chain and also on the cables, people forget you need to keep them clean and free moving as well. Wash off afterwards and then lubricate everywhere you cleaned- taking care to keep the lube away from your brakes and wheels. Do these few things and you'll get excellent service from a cheap, effective machine.0 -
They are cheap for a reason.Almost all new bikes are overpriced beyond belief and will delivery very little value for the extra money you spend. I can explain in depth, but in short what you want to look for is an all-steel framed bike with the simplest construction possible- no shock absorbers in the front forks, for example. The last time I looked, Halfords were selling one for about £120. Job done.
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Cheap and flimsy components that often won't last very long.
If Halfords assemble it there is a good chance it will be badly put together. Equally it might be very well put together as many Halfords guys do know what they are doing but they can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
£120 might buy a decent second hand bike but it probably won't buy a decent new bike.0 -
The last time I looked, Halfords were selling one for about £120.
:rotfl:
A Halfords £120 jobbie will be lucky to last a year.
Cheap components, cheap welding, low grade steel used, probably got plastic brake levers(or cheap alloy ones that will bend or snap under any sort of pressure), poorly fitted and calibrated components which will also be made with cheap low grade plastic and metal which will lead to mechanical problems, it will typically be heavy and unresponsive to ride
I'd love to be supplied with a link to one of these £120 bikes you're advocating just so I can point out all the flaws with it and why it won't last year without you having to fork out to replace things on it!0 -
Ride any bike for a year and you'll have to replace components- as far as I'm concerned, components are consumables. Buy cheap, ride it until a component breaks then replace the component with something decent (or get your cycle savvy friend to replace it). At least your spending will be spread out rather than coming in one hit.
The frame will not break, even the cheapest steel and welds will last for decades.
Links? Well, I quoted Halfords as an example, obviously they don't have offers on all the time- you're going to have to get out and look for a bargain. Unfortunately the forum won't let me post a link, but if you look on Halford's web site you'll find a full suspension mountain bike for £99- not something I'd buy, not my style, but it'll do for argument's sake. You're going to tell me the components are cheap, true; replace them when they break. You're going to tell me it'll be heavy and unresponsive to ride, true; this is for commuting (4 miles each way), not Alpe d'Huez.
My point is that the price of entry into cycling is too high, because it's set by dealers trying to sell the latest, flashest, most overpriced kit that the market will bear. If you're prepared to do a bit of digging, it doesn't have to be that way.0 -
Buy cheap, buy twice. A cliche but accurate.Ride any bike for a year and you'll have to replace components- as far as I'm concerned, components are consumables. Buy cheap, ride it until a component breaks then replace the component with something decent (or get your cycle savvy friend to replace it). At least your spending will be spread out rather than coming in one hit.
Buy a decent quality bike and the components should last for years. (Bar consumables such as brake pads and tyres etc.)..My point is that the price of entry into cycling is too high, because it's set by dealers trying to sell the latest, flashest, most overpriced kit that the market will bear. If you're prepared to do a bit of digging, it doesn't have to be that way.
No it doesn't, not with so many excellent value second hand bikes available. Let those who must have the latest, flashiest etc buy them. The savvy MSE buyer can then buy their last year's latest, flashiest etc at 1/3 to 1/2 of the original price.0 -
If Halfords assemble it there is a good chance it will be badly put together. Equally it might be very well put together as many Halfords guys do know what they are doing...
That's one thing I agree with, it's just down to luck whether you get the keeper of the clue or... well... we all know that other guy, right? I was in my local bike shop once and they had a bike that they were welding- the owner had brought it in after taking it to a well known high street store to have the bottom bracket changed. Said store called him to say they couldn't release the lock rings so they wouldn't do the job- only when he got home did he notice the bottom bracket body was mysteriously cracked! :eek:0 -
... and chains and cassettes. If you're going to have to learn or pay to have those replaced, stick in a decent set of levers at the same time.Buy a decent quality bike and the components should last for years. (Bar consumables such as brake pads and tyres etc.)
If they know what they're looking for, yes, I totally agree. There are plenty of poseurs out there buying pro-tour class bikes to decorate their sheds with before turfing them out for next season's latest. If you know what to look for on a 2nd-hand carbon frame, good luck to you, have a ball. I don't, so buying something new but cheap appeals. IMNSHO if you're knowledgeable enough to go scrutineering 2nd-hand frames then you're no longer in the 'price of entry' discussion...The savvy MSE buyer can then buy their last year's latest, flashiest etc at 1/3 to 1/2 of the original price.
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