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Can I turn a racing bike into a commuter?
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Speed? This is chill, man...Anyhoo, went to see a lovely, and in superb condition, Raleigh with metal chain guard and Sturmey gears. Raised the saddle to see if it would suit 6'2", and then picked up t'bike for trial ride. Or, I tried to pick it up. I thought it was bolted to the ground :-(1
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Think of all the extra exercise!
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Thanks. Yes, I get that. But still not ideal for sit-up riding. Also, them skinny tyres... pfffft.
Skinny tyres are so much easier to ride on though. My bike with the chunky tyres feels like it's riding through treacle with a constant effort to keep it moving. Swap it for the road bike and it rolls along with barely any resistance, with all effort going towards making good progress. It really is a night & day difference, but it's everybody's individual choice obvs.
Punctures on the thin 23C tyres are a rarity, as long as they stay inflated to the recommended pressures. Grip isn't an issue either.1 -
Bigger tyres are more comfortable though since most people can run lower pressures.
I went from 28-32mm and got to drop from 100 to 80psi. I'm about 100kg though so on the heavier side for a rider.
I suspect the tread pattern makes the bigger difference - smoother will roll faster than chunky.
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Thanks all.I know you are right, Username, but - yes - it's a personal preference. I like being able to go up and over kerbs with no concerns, and not being too bothered by the odd pothole. Also, I have the Tarka Trail not far away, and that can be tree-rooty and slippy-leafy in places; I prefer to have chunkier tyres, albeit with a smoothish central ridge for less rolling on smooth roads.All relaxed stuff0
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Don't go hitting kerbs in any bike, always puncture risk or damage to the wheel
Sam Vimes' Boots Theory of Socioeconomic Unfairness:
People are rich because they spend less money. A poor man buys $10 boots that last a season or two before he's walking in wet shoes and has to buy another pair. A rich man buys $50 boots that are made better and give him 10 years of dry feet. The poor man has spent $100 over those 10 years and still has wet feet.
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2 things in this conversation jump out at me. Why are you trying to force your preferences onto your son, he's old enough to experiment and find out for himself what he prefers. Why do you want to go up and over kerbs? Surely if it is a shared use path there is a dropped kerb, otherwise if you need to go up kerbs you are riding on the pavement.Living the dream in the Austrian Alps.0
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chris_n said:2 things in this conversation jump out at me. Why are you trying to force your preferences onto your son, he's old enough to experiment and find out for himself what he prefers. Why do you want to go up and over kerbs? Surely if it is a shared use path there is a dropped kerb, otherwise if you need to go up kerbs you are riding on the pavement.Not 'force', but I have cycled for decades, whereas he hasn't, 'least not since primary school.Anyhoo, he's busy, and left this with me, and a priority was the sit-up stance. Looking at what was available in a large frame, most appeared to be 'racing' bikes, hence my Q. But found a Carrera hybrid, which I've fettled and added an adjustable stem to raise 'bar height. Happily now running around Uni town.As for 'kerbs', it's just a bonus from slightly wider tyres, that's all, not a necessity. Something that can cope with slightly rough terrain. Neither of us are going to be breaking speed limits.1
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ThisIsWeird said:Thanks Kp.A sit-up-and-whatsit stance is required, for leisurely cycling along cycle lanes and towpaths and stuff. None of this arris-in-the-air latex malarkey.At least that's what I imagine you wear - post photo? (I'm ashamed...)The basic principle is ok, tho'? You can swap 'bars and controls, and it will 'work'? And not look too daft?Cheers.
I second this. A lot of bikes have bad posture for general riding and being able to look around more easily is also good.
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