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Decluttering and money making tips
Comments
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Pollycat said:bit_by_bit said:
I have a sheet with prices and measurments on. I always get proof of posting but sometimes the PO person will try to charge for a small parccel rather than a large letter etc. Know what you should be paying and get by weight and size and always get proof of posting. I have only had one thing not arrive in the last year although some have been late due to postal strikes and general delays.
I say 'small parcel, 2nd class, not signed for £3.35'. etc.
I did once have a PO clerk try to tell me that I couldn't send large letter heavier than 100gms.
Wrong!
LL goes from:
up to 100gm
101gm to 250gm
251gm to 500gm
501gm to 750gm
I wouldn't budge and she ended up calling a supervisor (this was in a WHS which is not our town's main post office) who confirmed I was right.
Just posted 4 items, 3 small parcel s, 1 large letter.
I'd weighed them all. The LL should have gone at £1.65 but he said it was £2.45 (I think).
I queried it and quoted the weight limits.
We weighed it again and it weighed 239 gms so within the 101-250 GM limit and yes - the correct charge was £1.65.
Be wary of post office/spso staff.
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Coffeekup said:Pollycat said:I use Royal Mail as I have 2 Post Offices that are convenient.
It's really simple, I use this:
Get a price | Royal Mail Group Ltd
although I can now assess the postage costs accurately.
For example, a pair of shoes - with or without box - will go RM small parcel 2nd class for £3.35.
A pair of earrings will go RM large letter under 100gm 2nd class for £1.05.
A more expensive item of jewellery will be sent RM large letter 2nd class signed for £2.45.
2 things I do in addition to what I've posted above is overwrite eBay's suggested starting price. I'll decide how much I want the starting bid to be.
I always check eBay's suggested posting cost/courier. If it's not what I want, I change it.
So you don't always get thing signed for?
What happens if the item is apparently not received?
For items up to £20 standard parcels @ £2.85 for small parcel have delivery confirmation, which is basically the same as signed for, so no need to upgrade. For items over £20 then you will need signed for or guaranteed if you want to claim for loss, but do look at RM 24 or RM 48 available online as they are very useful services.
If something doesn't arrive regardless of how it is sent then your proof of postage can be used to claim your losses from RM.
I’m a Forum Ambassador and I support the Forum Team on the eBay, Auctions, Car Boot & Jumble Sales, Boost Your Income, Praise, Vents & Warnings, Overseas Holidays & Travel Planning , UK Holidays, Days Out & Entertainments boards. If you need any help on these boards, do let me know.. Please note that Ambassadors are not moderators. Any posts you spot in breach of the Forum Rules should be reported via the report button, or by emailing forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com.All views are my own and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.3 -
I try to avoid postage when offering items for sale as it's ......finding a box, bubble wrapping, creating a parcel, visiting a post office etc etc which adds to the time and effort......for no extra return. I try to sell on a buy it now basis, collect only, no returns accepted. Ok, I know it does limit the market but I put a lot less time and effort into it than others.1
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Thx @soolinand at @Pollycat for getting back to me.
Another question I read a page on this site here a few years ago saying 10 day's and listing on a Thursday evening was best for Sunday buy's... Is that still the case? Or should I just go mad and list all I can over the next few days/week's?1 -
Coffeekup said:Thx @soolinand at @Pollycat for getting back to me.
Another question I read a page on this site here a few years ago saying 10 day's and listing on a Thursday evening was best for Sunday buy's... Is that still the case? Or should I just go mad and list all I can over the next few days/week's?
When I browse ebay I tend to only look at ending soonest for auctions or go straight to BIN lowest price with P and P. I never watch newly listed auctions as I can't be bothered to wait 7 or 10 days to see if I've won something.
I've bene listing on my private account today all BINs and am selling things as I list- I'll pack them all and print my labels this evening and drop them off tomorrow. The money will be in my account tomorrow.I’m a Forum Ambassador and I support the Forum Team on the eBay, Auctions, Car Boot & Jumble Sales, Boost Your Income, Praise, Vents & Warnings, Overseas Holidays & Travel Planning , UK Holidays, Days Out & Entertainments boards. If you need any help on these boards, do let me know.. Please note that Ambassadors are not moderators. Any posts you spot in breach of the Forum Rules should be reported via the report button, or by emailing forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com.All views are my own and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.1 -
soolin said:Coffeekup said:Thx @soolinand at @Pollycat for getting back to me.
Another question I read a page on this site here a few years ago saying 10 day's and listing on a Thursday evening was best for Sunday buy's... Is that still the case? Or should I just go mad and list all I can over the next few days/week's?
When I browse ebay I tend to only look at ending soonest for auctions or go straight to BIN lowest price with P and P. I never watch newly listed auctions as I can't be bothered to wait 7 or 10 days to see if I've won something.
I've bene listing on my private account today all BINs and am selling things as I list- I'll pack them all and print my labels this evening and drop them off tomorrow. The money will be in my account tomorrow.
I'm exactly the opposite.
I only do auctions.
I time them to end between 5pm and 8pm on Saturday evenings.
This gives the buyer plenty of time to pay and for me to package up ready to pop to the post office on Monday.
It might not be the best plan but it works for me.
Fair to say that I think me and Soolin are very different eBayers.
I just sell my unwanted stuff.
When I browse eBay I have a number of saved searches that are sorted by 'newly listed'.
I just add anything I may be interested in to my 'watch' list and tend to bid on a 'last few seconds' basis rather than when I first see it.
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For larger items, bulky goods/toys/household/clothes & to save on postage & packing...for a fast cash turnaround....It's a bit late in the year for car boots, but check out your local markets for stall availability on second hand & flea markets.
We cleared half a dozen boxes of "rubbish" recently & gained £130 in a day.
It should cost you around £15-20 for a (undercover? ready-provided?) stall ...no need for the old pasting table!
Tip: take a seat (it will be a long day) & your own eats/drinks - you dont want to waste your hard-earned on takeaway food!.
The bigger the market, the bigger the footfall. Turn up early, get the best pitch & mark your items sensibly low - you dont want to be left with over-priced goods. Be prepared to accept offers.1 -
I have probably made in excess of £2,000 in the last 18 months selling anything and everything on eBay. It does amaze me what people are prepared to pay for random second hand items
E.g. I sold a box of out of date home brew beer ingredients for £25
What I tend to do is find an item I'm thinking of selling, search for it on ebay and filter by sold items only. This way you get a view of whether it has been selling and for what kind of price. Normally if there's a few that have been sold in the recent past then I will list a couple of quid under the average total cost but with free postage and items tend to sell pretty well that way
I tend to opt for buy it now or best offer rather than auction, and then for the photos I normally just snip photos from existing listings provided the condition is similar... saves a lot of time
Also then for postage I normally use Evri which is cheaper than the post office and no queuing !2 -
I use ebay to sell and like others wait for the deals of ebay fees.
Agree with others that if you leave Best Offer switched on, you should set the limits so that you are not bothered by people making silly offers. One thing I would note however is that with Best Offer, buyers don't always offer less. If they want an item and you are not offering Buy It Now, it is a way for them to win the item at a price they think is fair which may be a fair bit higher than your initial listing price. You don't have to accept it and you can always make a counter offer for them to consider. I have sold a few items on this basis.1
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