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Ways of having sockets live only when generating PV power
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Skintsaver said:I'll have a look into home assistant again. I'm just after somthing that's simple and will work.Simple, effective and cheap. Choose any two. Examples:
- Simple and effective - a solar immersion diverter. £2-300 plus installation. Not cheap.
- Simple and cheap - you watch the meters and switch things on and off yourself. Not effective.
- Cheap and effective - Home Assistant and a couple of smart plugs. Not simple.
N. Hampshire, he/him. Octopus Intelligent Go elec & Tracker gas / Vodafone BB / iD mobile. Ripple Kirk Hill member.
2.72kWp PV facing SSW installed Jan 2012. 11 x 247w panels, 3.6kw inverter. 34 MWh generated, long-term average 2.6 Os.Not exactly back from my break, but dipping in and out of the forum.Ofgem cap table, Ofgem cap explainer. Economy 7 cap explainer. Gas vs E7 vs peak elec heating costs, Best kettle!1 - Simple and effective - a solar immersion diverter. £2-300 plus installation. Not cheap.
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Skintsaver said:Was certainly the case when I geofenced my phone so my heating automatically came on after leaving work!
4.7kwp PV split equally N and S 20° 2016.Givenergy AIO (2024)Seat Mii electric (2021). MG4 Trophy (2024).1.2kw Ripple Kirk Hill. 0.6kw Derril Water.Whitelaw Bay 0.2kwVaillant aroTHERM plus 5kW ASHP (2025)Gas supply capped (2025)0 -
It's easiest on a Rpi as you have access to HACS which I don't have in the docker I run.4.29kWp Solar system, 45/55 South/West split in cloudy rainy Cumbria.1
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I too run Home Assistant on a dedicated Raspberry Pi and I use Zigbee smart plugs which can be switched on/off via automation.
I would say that with all the changes they have made to HA in the past year it is becoming a lot less complicated to set up and run via the user interface.0 -
I use a raspberry pi that reads my Solis invertor power and use a Hildebrand IHD that tells me what I'm importing/exporting
The reason i went for the £65 IHD, is that i didn't need to put a CT clamp on main cable, plus it gives me gas and electricity every 5 seconds.
I also have a number of localbyte plugs that i can monitor and control. I only really intend to control some small heaters.
The only thing i cant monitor is the bloody iboost+, which i may wait and replace or use a clamp.
I use my own software at moment, very simple webpages and buttons to control plugs. I probably will use HA in the future when i eventually get an EV.
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If you are looking for super simple and cheap my suggestion would be something like this:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295029455729?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Yv_QNsB4RWO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=DtbsXk1pRsq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Have the positive wire from your inverter go through the switch, and have a mains supply go from it, to something like this:-
https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-20a-dp-contactor-no/6654p
You can in theory adjust the tripping point for the contactor/relay based on the inverter output so it will only activate the switch when the inverter is generating over 100w, or 1000w or whatever you plan on powering with your sockets (that will run from the relay).
Cards on the table I haven't run this myself, but it is how I plan to run a couple of immersion elements based on another immersion element drawing power, so I'll be able to confirm or deny it as a solution in a week or two.West central Scotland
4kw sse since 2014 and 6.6kw wsw / ene split since 2019
24kwh leaf, 75Kwh Tesla and Lux 3600 with 60Kwh storage1 -
Good find Solarchaser.That is exactly the kind of thing that could do at least part of a control job You and the OP are looking for. It looks as if it will be a CT transformer and control circuit all in one....but not of a clip on variety.A few questions would remain in my mind or extra actions.Ease of sitching level setting within the range?The switching output may need to have an extra relay or contacter for higher current circuits just 300mA is specified for both AC and DC. That is very general and does not specify max instantaneous switching capacity so load choice must be carefully considered.The switching circuit type is not specified be it mechanical relay, electronic relay or semiconductor. I eould definately provide protection snd isolation by a further relay irrespective of load.Hysteresis is quoted as very low. That may cause chatter for any load relay so either slowing down circuit (for a mech relay/contacter) might be required or use of a solid state relay.Nothing is mentioned regarding switching time during an AC waveform such as the mains nor anything about a snubbing circuit. That might cause interference (no C E approval is specified! EDIT: Though I now notice one shown on the photo) so needs consideration.Separate enclosure, fusing etc ought to be employed for safety reasons such as with the load terminals being exposed.Hope these comments give help and food for thought.0
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