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Please suggest some good quality, bright Cycle Lights and also some warm cycling gloves.
Comments
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DUTR said:Deleted_User said:Chickereeeee said:DUTR said:Brian_Pamo said:Forgot to say, Also a good seat padding thingy for the razor Bike seat.
Use the bike a few times, say for half a dozen reasonable rides (>1hr in the saddle). It will be uncomfortable at first, then you get used to it. If it remains a problem, you MAY need a different shape saddle, or bike adjustment.
Saddles designed so that your weight is primarily on your 'sit-bones'. If you have padding, your hard sit-bones sink in, and the pressure is then on your soft tissue. Not good.
Further, padding is a major part of cycle gear, I am not sure why DUTR thinks you don't need it
As another poster mentions why would a brand make a cycle with a poor saddle? (even at budget) , flinging some gel cover over a saddle will make little difference if the position is already way out for the rider.
I've just purchased a road bike, the saddle is not a fizik, and looks bony, however I've done a few 40 mile loops and have not faced any discomfort, my 30+ yr old Raleigh Criterium still has the original saddle on it , maybe I'm fortunate.1) I misunderstood your point on padding to be talking about bib padding, not say a gel cover or whatever on the saddle, that was my mistake. Extra saddle padding is pointless, but harder road saddles are intended to be used with padded shorts/tights2) My more general point is that people have different sit bone sizes and thus have different points where the pressure is, an off the shelf saddle might be right for some people, not everyone - no amount of adjustments will change that, particularly if the saddle is too narrow. Similarly a stock saddle with little or no cutaway can be painful for men, let alone women, again, the stock saddle can be changed out quickly for more comfort and is a better approach than trying to have the bike adjusted and hope you get used to it.When you're riding for 3-4+ hours, more so if doing long rides say 100km, 100 mile or more, you don't want a poor saddle
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Deleted_User said:DUTR said:Deleted_User said:Chickereeeee said:DUTR said:Brian_Pamo said:Forgot to say, Also a good seat padding thingy for the razor Bike seat.
Use the bike a few times, say for half a dozen reasonable rides (>1hr in the saddle). It will be uncomfortable at first, then you get used to it. If it remains a problem, you MAY need a different shape saddle, or bike adjustment.
Saddles designed so that your weight is primarily on your 'sit-bones'. If you have padding, your hard sit-bones sink in, and the pressure is then on your soft tissue. Not good.
Further, padding is a major part of cycle gear, I am not sure why DUTR thinks you don't need it
As another poster mentions why would a brand make a cycle with a poor saddle? (even at budget) , flinging some gel cover over a saddle will make little difference if the position is already way out for the rider.
I've just purchased a road bike, the saddle is not a fizik, and looks bony, however I've done a few 40 mile loops and have not faced any discomfort, my 30+ yr old Raleigh Criterium still has the original saddle on it , maybe I'm fortunate.1) I misunderstood your point on padding to be talking about bib padding, not say a gel cover or whatever on the saddle, that was my mistake. Extra saddle padding is pointless, but harder road saddles are intended to be used with padded shorts/tights2) My more general point is that people have different sit bone sizes and thus have different points where the pressure is, an off the shelf saddle might be right for some people, not everyone - no amount of adjustments will change that, particularly if the saddle is too narrow. Similarly a stock saddle with little or no cutaway can be painful for men, let alone women, again, the stock saddle can be changed out quickly for more comfort and is a better approach than trying to have the bike adjusted and hope you get used to it.When you're riding for 3-4+ hours, more so if doing long rides say 100km, 100 mile or more, you don't want a poor saddle0 -
I echo the recommendation to have front and rear flashing lights fitted to be seen, and then use a separate torch as a headlight, a 600-800 lumen torch with electronic switch is about as bright as a car headlight and is the sort of power I would be recommending for unlit roads.0
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One thing to consider with lights is whether to go rechargeable or battery. I was caught out a few years ago on an early morning ride and the battery in my rear light died. I was completely oblivious to this and was lucky that a driver slowed down as he passed me and let me know (in a friendly manner) that I was almost invisible from behind. Luckily the sun was just about to rise so I just waited 10 minutes so that I was more visible. This prompted me to get a rechargeable set which weren't cheap but give me a fair degree of comfort.0
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