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Please suggest some good quality, bright Cycle Lights and also some warm cycling gloves.

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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0 Newbie
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Photogenic Name Dropper
    edited 9 December 2020 at 9:31PM
    DUTR said:
    DUTR said:
    Forgot to say, Also a good seat padding thingy for the razor Bike seat.
    Padding shouldn't be required for saddles if they are set correctly, oddly many purchase a bike too big, how long are you using the bike for? Discomfort within an hour suggest much adjustment is required.
    New cyclists always seem to think that the bike manufacturer has designed a wonderful piece of equipment, and the deliberately put an uncomfortable saddle on it. Why would they do that? Because they hate you?
    Use the bike a few times, say for half a dozen reasonable rides (>1hr in the saddle). It will be uncomfortable at first, then you get used to it. If it remains a problem, you MAY need a different shape saddle, or bike adjustment.
    Saddles designed so that your weight is primarily on your 'sit-bones'. If you have padding, your hard sit-bones sink in, and the pressure is then on your soft tissue. Not good.
    The saddle on the bike is a generic size, saddles are made with different widths for different sit bones, the off the shelf saddle might well be very uncomfortable for a new rider even after a dozen rides of 2 hours if the pressure is being put on the wrong place (particularly with female riders who get a unisex bike). Getting the sit bones measured and an appropriate width saddle organised (a female specific one with big cut away should also be considered) can make the world of difference to anyone making a serious hobby out of cycling. 
    Further, padding is a major part of cycle gear, I am not sure why DUTR thinks you don't need it
    I'm not sure why you think I think?
    As another poster mentions why would a brand make a cycle with a poor saddle? (even at budget) , flinging some gel cover over a saddle will make little difference if the position is already way out for the rider.
    I've just purchased a road bike, the saddle is not a fizik, and looks bony, however I've done a few 40 mile loops and have not faced any discomfort, my 30+ yr old Raleigh Criterium still has the original saddle on it , maybe I'm fortunate.
    1) I misunderstood your point on padding to be talking about bib padding, not say a gel cover or whatever on the saddle, that was my mistake. Extra saddle padding is pointless, but harder road saddles are intended to be used with padded shorts/tights
    2) My more general point is that people have different sit bone sizes and thus have different points where the pressure is, an off the shelf saddle might be right for some people, not everyone - no amount of adjustments will change that, particularly if the saddle is too narrow. Similarly a stock saddle with little or no cutaway can be painful for men, let alone women, again, the stock saddle can be changed out quickly for more comfort and is a better approach than trying to have the bike adjusted and hope you get used to it.

    When you're riding for 3-4+ hours, more so if doing long rides say 100km, 100 mile or more, you don't want a poor saddle

  • DUTR
    DUTR Posts: 12,958 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    DUTR said:
    DUTR said:
    Forgot to say, Also a good seat padding thingy for the razor Bike seat.
    Padding shouldn't be required for saddles if they are set correctly, oddly many purchase a bike too big, how long are you using the bike for? Discomfort within an hour suggest much adjustment is required.
    New cyclists always seem to think that the bike manufacturer has designed a wonderful piece of equipment, and the deliberately put an uncomfortable saddle on it. Why would they do that? Because they hate you?
    Use the bike a few times, say for half a dozen reasonable rides (>1hr in the saddle). It will be uncomfortable at first, then you get used to it. If it remains a problem, you MAY need a different shape saddle, or bike adjustment.
    Saddles designed so that your weight is primarily on your 'sit-bones'. If you have padding, your hard sit-bones sink in, and the pressure is then on your soft tissue. Not good.
    The saddle on the bike is a generic size, saddles are made with different widths for different sit bones, the off the shelf saddle might well be very uncomfortable for a new rider even after a dozen rides of 2 hours if the pressure is being put on the wrong place (particularly with female riders who get a unisex bike). Getting the sit bones measured and an appropriate width saddle organised (a female specific one with big cut away should also be considered) can make the world of difference to anyone making a serious hobby out of cycling. 
    Further, padding is a major part of cycle gear, I am not sure why DUTR thinks you don't need it
    I'm not sure why you think I think?
    As another poster mentions why would a brand make a cycle with a poor saddle? (even at budget) , flinging some gel cover over a saddle will make little difference if the position is already way out for the rider.
    I've just purchased a road bike, the saddle is not a fizik, and looks bony, however I've done a few 40 mile loops and have not faced any discomfort, my 30+ yr old Raleigh Criterium still has the original saddle on it , maybe I'm fortunate.
    1) I misunderstood your point on padding to be talking about bib padding, not say a gel cover or whatever on the saddle, that was my mistake. Extra saddle padding is pointless, but harder road saddles are intended to be used with padded shorts/tights
    2) My more general point is that people have different sit bone sizes and thus have different points where the pressure is, an off the shelf saddle might be right for some people, not everyone - no amount of adjustments will change that, particularly if the saddle is too narrow. Similarly a stock saddle with little or no cutaway can be painful for men, let alone women, again, the stock saddle can be changed out quickly for more comfort and is a better approach than trying to have the bike adjusted and hope you get used to it.

    When you're riding for 3-4+ hours, more so if doing long rides say 100km, 100 mile or more, you don't want a poor saddle

    I agree all have a unique anotomy, from reading the OP's posts it seems they are newish to cycling and the discomfort arises after a few minutes or miles on the bike, many newish cyclists won't knock out 10 miles. It'd be interesting to know the type of bike they have chosen.
  • I echo the recommendation to have front and rear flashing lights fitted to be seen, and then use a separate torch as a headlight, a 600-800 lumen torch with electronic switch is about as bright as a car headlight and is the sort of power I would be recommending for unlit roads. 
  • Ballard
    Ballard Posts: 2,983 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    One thing to consider with lights is whether to go rechargeable or battery. I was caught out a few years ago on an early morning ride and the battery in my rear light died. I was completely oblivious to this and was lucky that a driver slowed down as he passed me and let me know (in a friendly manner)  that I was almost invisible from behind. Luckily the sun was just about to rise so I just waited 10 minutes so that I was more visible. This prompted me to get a rechargeable set which weren't cheap but give me a fair degree of comfort.
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