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Storing bike in a shed - rust?

2

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  • fred246
    fred246 Posts: 3,620 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    By wear I mean chain stretch. I check it regularly with a gauge and replace when stretched. I have only ever used the wet. It lasts for years. Just literally one small drop before each ride. No sign of rust ever on my chain.
  • Regular lube increases chain wear? Sounds a bit backwards to me that. Not doubting you but it just sounds backwards.

    What oil do you recommend I use? I've heard of wet and dry. As i say, i don't really go out if it's peeing it down. I've only ever been out in the rain once and that's only because i got caught out halfway in to a ride. Fair weather riding for me :)
    Wet is for use in rain/winter, dry for summer/heat - the dry stuff is decent but will wash off fairly quickly if you go through rain/wet ground. If you cycle regularly in bad weather the gunk does accumulate on gears/chain which can affect the smooth shifting of the gears - I can literally scrape off stuff 1-2mm thick if I haven't cleaned for a while.
  • Nebulous2
    Nebulous2 Posts: 5,680 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Regular lube increases chain wear? Sounds a bit backwards to me that. Not doubting you but it just sounds backwards.

    What oil do you recommend I use? I've heard of wet and dry. As i say, i don't really go out if it's peeing it down. I've only ever been out in the rain once and that's only because i got caught out halfway in to a ride. Fair weather riding for me :)

    I ue this stuff from Halfords.
    It has a pump action with a very concentrated jet, meaning you can get it exactly where you want it. Contains teflon. As I said further up I wipe grime off and relube regularly. I use it all year round. I mostly have the nickel plated chains that don't rust very easily. I also oil all the pivot points on the front and rear mech and on the brakes if you don't have discs.


  • Thanks for the link.

    Out of interest, where do you guys store your bikes?
    I know everyone will be different. Some will have plenty of space, others not so much. Some will cover 100s of miles per week, others 100 miles per year kind of thing.

    Our shed is a small wooden one. I've been itching to have a larger one for years but it's the cost. Ideally would like block built but more than likely going to have to settle for wood again or metal.
  • In an Asgard secure shed to keep the dodgy types away from my bikes. Wouldn't leave even a £5 beater in a wooden shed, too easy to break into
  • Nebulous2
    Nebulous2 Posts: 5,680 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I started cycling seriously about 10 years ago and my bike was in a wooden shed, along with other family bikes. It was okay, but I didn’t like it. As children have left and we have more room (and I’ve somehow acquired more bikes) I’ve moved two of them into the house. One on a turbo, and one simply for storage. 

    We’re moving in about three months or so and the new house has fewer rooms, but has a garage which is going to become my bike storage / workshop / turbo room. 
  • fred246
    fred246 Posts: 3,620 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Rust is only a problem if your bike is made of metals that rust. Most expensive bikes are made of alloys that will never rust. If you look at your own bike you can normally tell which parts rust. Sometimes you can pay more for parts that won't rust. If you buy a cheap cable they are galvanized ie steel with a thin coating of zinc. They are OK initially but will rust eventually. A few pence extra and you have stainless steel that NEVER rusts.
  • alembicbassman
    alembicbassman Posts: 97 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    edited 25 November 2020 at 11:16AM
    I store my daily use bikes in a 6x8 wooden shed. I smear a bit grease on the steel parts like allen bolts on the stem, top cap, brakes, seat clamp, drinks bottle points etc.. Some bolts are stainless steel, some are just plated. The plated ones will go rusty over time if not protected with something.
    When the bikes get soaked after a wet ride I wipe them over with an oily rag. An old cut up cotton T shirt with a bit of WD40 / GT85 sprayed onto it is great.
  • fred246 said:
    Rust is only a problem if your bike is made of metals that rust. Most expensive bikes are made of alloys that will never rust. If you look at your own bike you can normally tell which parts rust. Sometimes you can pay more for parts that won't rust. If you buy a cheap cable they are galvanized ie steel with a thin coating of zinc. They are OK initially but will rust eventually. A few pence extra and you have stainless steel that NEVER rusts.
    The frame isn't the issue, it's the parts that can e.g. bolts, chain, cassette etc
  • Nebulous2
    Nebulous2 Posts: 5,680 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    fred246 said:
    Rust is only a problem if your bike is made of metals that rust. Most expensive bikes are made of alloys that will never rust. If you look at your own bike you can normally tell which parts rust. Sometimes you can pay more for parts that won't rust. If you buy a cheap cable they are galvanized ie steel with a thin coating of zinc. They are OK initially but will rust eventually. A few pence extra and you have stainless steel that NEVER rusts.
    Not rust as such, but alloy certainly corrodes. My first bike in the shed acquired significant patches of corrosion on the alloy wheels during a cold winter with a lot of grit and salt on the roads. It was like a white bloom on the rims. 
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