Car won't start a week after I bought it

radish_radish

Hi. I bought a used '13 plate Range Rover Evoque from a used car dealership last week, it had low mileage and service reports every year from Land Rover. Immediately, I noticed the central locking was faulty so I reported that I couldn't open the rear doors without unlocking from the inside first.

A few days later, I went to start the engine and it wouldn't start - just made a click sound. RAC came and couldn't start it - they suggested it might be the starter motor.

I have a 3 month warranty with the dealer so they have assured me they are sorting the issues but having paid 20k, i'm a little wary as to whether I am going to get further issues and that I'm sure the dealer must have known about the issues before we bought it. Add to that, they are keen to take it to their own garage rather than me sort the issues via my garage.. this may be standard procedure, not sure.

Anyway, what are my options here? I'm thinking 3 months warranty isn't enough considering there seem to be standing issues. Also, I've only had it a week so in theory I could get a full refund?

AndyMc.....

Your options are try to reject the car and get a refund, allow them to repair it and purchase a warranty. The time to get an extended warranty thrown in was before you agreed a deal.

prowla

A click may be a dud battery or starter motor; I've had both.


They may not be any indication of further issues.


The central locking might though (unless the battery was low).


I'm not a Range Rover expert, but I do know someone else who had one and had lots of issues with it.

radish_radish

The battery was checked by RAC and was 113% - which he said was odd. All electrics working. I've tried starting it the last couple of days and this morning there's a battery warning saying it's low.. possibly due to all the time I've spent sat in it trying to start it up.

debtdebt

Yet the battery will be low because you've been trying to start it. What do you mean the battery has been showing 113%? Perhaps the alternator has gone and is overcharging the battery.

Anyway, if you want to seller to repair the car, you have to allow them to do it at their garage of choice.

radish_radish

The device the RAC man used to check the battery shower 113%. He also checked th starter motor which had small dents on which he explained was probably due it being hit with a hammer previously in order to try and start it. That said, he was unable to start it the same way

DUTR

radish_radish wrote: »

The device the RAC man used to check the battery shower 113%. He also checked th starter motor which had small dents on which he explained was probably due it being hit with a hammer previously in order to try and start it. That said, he was unable to start it the same way

It's been a long time since sticking starter motors, the starting is different on modern cars, so the hammer thing seems odd (plus they are usually at an awkward place to strike it with a hammer).
The 113% is probably 113% of 12v which is under the 14.4v , perhaps the figure usually is 120%, as others have mentioned get the car back to the dealer and let them do a diagnosis.

daveyjp

5 years old and low mileage is no good for a battery and if its a diesel, no good for much else engine wise.

As you are within 30 days reject and find something much newer and reliable for £20k.

easy

Have a read through the Honest John Columns honestjohn.co.uk.

There is a long section there on consumer law, but the nub of the matter is

during the first six months:

The consumer returns the goods in the first six months from the date of sale and requests a repair or replacement or a partial refund. In that case, the consumer does not have to prove the goods were faulty at the time of sale. It is assumed that they were. If the retailer does not agree, it is for the retailer to prove that the goods were satisfactory at the time of sale. This comes from Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002, derived from EU Directive 1999/44/EU which became Clauses 48A to 48F inclusive of the Sale of Goods act in April 2003

The law assumes that these faults were present or developing at the time of sale, and the dealer is liable.
You can demand a refund, or the dealer can try to the car repaired, but given what you have said in your shoes I'd be telling him to include getting a new starter motor fitted as well as everything else, if it's been battered with a hammer. I reckon you also want to see the report from the auto-electrician who fixes the door lock problem before you accept the car back again.

The dealer might choose to offer you a refund, but he can deduct a reasonable amount for the use you have had of the car during the week it was actually running.

forgotmyname

113% = 11.3 volts = flat?

Been playing with the toys with the engine off?

My first car and a lesson not to leave stuff running with the engine off.
Serviced the car and left the doors open and stereo on which drained the battery and then washed the car. So the lights and stereo was on for a long time. battery too low to start the engine..

DUTR

forgotmyname wrote: »

113% = 11.3 volts = flat?

Been playing with the toys with the engine off?

My first car and a lesson not to leave stuff running with the engine off.
Serviced the car and left the doors open and stereo on which drained the battery and then washed the car. So the lights and stereo was on for a long time. battery too low to start the engine..

So I wonder if the OP meant 11.3Volt not %.
Yep that would be too low for usual starting, the rear doors not unlocking could be a setting on the car as I have mine set to just open the drivers door.