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Sanding disc brake rotors -- terrible squeal?!

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  • esuhl
    esuhl Posts: 9,409 Forumite
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    Retrogamer wrote: »
    Sintered pads last longer in wet / muddy rides and when they do heat up they perform better but they cause the rotor to wear quicker and can be noisy.

    If you ride in the mud / grime a lot or you're a heavy rider or are very aggressive with braking these are best.



    Organic pads perform better when cold and don't cause as much wear on the rotor and are (usually) much quieter. They wear rapidly in the muddy / wet conditions though and they can become glazed a bit easier with lots of extreme braking / downhill.

    Right... I ride in lots of different conditions, so I think I chose sintered pads to cope with the mud/grime. They don't normally make any noise! I hope the rotors are thick enough that I don't need to worry about wearing them down too quickly.

    Retrogamer wrote: »
    I bought some alcohol cleaner for my rotors. On my hybrid i have always been really careful when applying chain lube and cleaning the cassette and chain to avoid contamination the rotor or pads. After cleaning both the front and rear rotors i found that the rear one was about 4 x as grimey as the front. I imagine at speed some spray must get onto it.

    I had the same issue with contaminated pads a while back.

    Have you tried using a wax-based lube? I use one called Squirt, which works pretty well. (Especially in the mud/grime.) I haven't noticed any signs of it spraying on the rotors.
  • Retrogamer
    Retrogamer Posts: 4,218 Forumite
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    I usually use Shimano wet / dry lube depending on the season & weather outlook
    All your base are belong to us.
  • glasgowdan
    glasgowdan Posts: 2,968 Forumite
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    Organic pads run cooler on big descents and maintain performance better. They last a long time on a road bike and generally bite better. granted, top end power isn't needed on a road bike normally, but I prefer having it there.
  • Nasqueron
    Nasqueron Posts: 10,771 Forumite
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    When my CX was squealing (cable discs) I did the sanding technique (on the disc and pads) and cleaned them up and still had the issue to an extent, LBS did a job on them with some proper cleaner (which I have now) and they were still on and off a bit while they bedded in - it might just need a bit of time and some stop/start riding to get them right - I ride on and off road (CX for winter commuting and trail riding)

    Sam Vimes' Boots Theory of Socioeconomic Unfairness: 

    People are rich because they spend less money. A poor man buys $10 boots that last a season or two before he's walking in wet shoes and has to buy another pair. A rich man buys $50 boots that are made better and give him 10 years of dry feet. The poor man has spent $100 over those 10 years and still has wet feet.

  • glasgowdan
    glasgowdan Posts: 2,968 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Try also loosening the caliper bolts and realigning yhe caliper. Might help
  • Strider590
    Strider590 Posts: 11,874 Forumite
    Sanding the discs was probably a bad idea, when bedding in new discs+pads your basically transferring pad material onto the disc surface, so what you've done is removed that layer. If you've not taken time to bed them in again, the pads will likely glaze over and cause the problem you describe.
    “I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”

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  • Nasqueron
    Nasqueron Posts: 10,771 Forumite
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    Strider590 wrote: »
    Sanding the discs was probably a bad idea, when bedding in new discs+pads your basically transferring pad material onto the disc surface, so what you've done is removed that layer. If you've not taken time to bed them in again, the pads will likely glaze over and cause the problem you describe.

    It's a perfectly valid tip to lightly sand disc brakes, recommended by many major bike groups

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-step-by-step-guide-to-quiet-disc-braking-22829/

    http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Silence-That-Squeaky-Disc-Brake-2011.html

    http://road.cc/content/feature/188504-how-stop-your-brakes-squealing

    http://enduromag.com.au/site/enduro-workshop/enduro-workshop-fixing-noisy-disc-brakes/

    GMBN even recommend filing the pads!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMk-AiuyfYk

    Sam Vimes' Boots Theory of Socioeconomic Unfairness: 

    People are rich because they spend less money. A poor man buys $10 boots that last a season or two before he's walking in wet shoes and has to buy another pair. A rich man buys $50 boots that are made better and give him 10 years of dry feet. The poor man has spent $100 over those 10 years and still has wet feet.

  • Strider590
    Strider590 Posts: 11,874 Forumite
    ^^ Shouldn't be necessary if you bed them in properly.
    “I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”

    <><><><><><><><><<><><><><><><><><><><><><> Don't forget to like and subscribe \/ \/ \/
  • Retrogamer
    Retrogamer Posts: 4,218 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    If the replacement pads are a different brand or different compound i'd sand the rotor.
    All your base are belong to us.
  • Nasqueron
    Nasqueron Posts: 10,771 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Strider590 wrote: »
    ^^ Shouldn't be necessary if you bed them in properly.

    It's not necessarily about bedding in, contaminants on the disc or pad e.g. cleaning fluid from a bike wash can cause the squeal

    Sam Vimes' Boots Theory of Socioeconomic Unfairness: 

    People are rich because they spend less money. A poor man buys $10 boots that last a season or two before he's walking in wet shoes and has to buy another pair. A rich man buys $50 boots that are made better and give him 10 years of dry feet. The poor man has spent $100 over those 10 years and still has wet feet.

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