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An update, I got some bar keepers friend cream late last week. Robert dyas stocks it, 50p more than elsewhere but I was walking past it so didn't have to go out of my way.
It is amazing stuff, by far the best I've tried. It takes a bit of effort but my fireplace is coming up better than its looked for ages.
I was worried that it would tarnish after I'd cleaned it but no, as long as it's rinsed and dried it seems fine.