Aren't Bicycles Great.

Johnmcl7

Retrogamer wrote: »

It's worlds apart from my GT hard tail. Standing up cycling up hills is a no no as most of your torque is converted into compressing the suspension. The massive tyres have a lot more grips but a lot more weight to tow up the hills as well. A lot more drag when cycling on tarmac as well.

Looking at the spec, it should have a Climb-Trail-Descend setting on both shocks - are those not working? The behaviour you're describing shouldn't be happening on that design of suspension. I have a similar system on my FS 29er (Fox DRCV front and back) and while it still allows some movement on the Climb setting it doesn't suck up any pedal power and allows hard sprinting standing on the pedals. I had my C and T settings fairly close but preferred that for the cross country riding as I didn't want it too soft when pushing hard on mixed terrain and keep the Descent mode for fast downhill stuff.

John

Retrogamer

Johnmcl7 wrote: »

Looking at the spec, it should have a Climb-Trail-Descend setting on both shocks - are those not working? The behaviour you're describing shouldn't be happening on that design of suspension. I have a similar system on my FS 29er (Fox DRCV front and back) and while it still allows some movement on the Climb setting it doesn't suck up any pedal power and allows hard sprinting standing on the pedals. I had my C and T settings fairly close but preferred that for the cross country riding as I didn't want it too soft when pushing hard on mixed terrain and keep the Descent mode for fast downhill stuff.

John

Thanks John.

I set up the rear with 25% droop, so that's about 240psi with my weight. The bounce is greatly reduced on the rear on climb setting but there's still a little.
Front is more or less fully locked out on climb.

Perhaps it's the damper setting on the rear. I need to get a few hours somewhere rough to play about with it and get used to the damper rates.

Johnmcl7

I understand the basics of suspension but I get a bit lost with all the talk on the finer points, I just had the pressure set with my weight and seemed fine. I know how annoying it is to pedal hard when the suspension is too soft and dislike that feeling of your power being sucked away.

I've been having a couple of issues going back to the rigid after a hard tail, with the seatpost still slipping on the hardtail I went back to the rigid. I've only ridden the hardtail three times but I've become quickly used to the ease of carrying speed on very bumpy ground. The rigid bike needs more caution and care which I managed to get quite wrong a couple of times and almost hurtled myself off the bike at speed. I somehow stayed on but did manage to gain a few bumps and scratches on a low speed crash when the wheel slipped on a muddy section.

I see Trek have fattened up the Fuel giving it plus sized tyres and if I hadn't bought the Stache, I'd probably be preordering that. On the other hand having been used to the limiting speed of the rigid, I've been getting a bit too enthusiastic with the Stache so a FS would probably be a bad idea.

John

esuhl

I don't really know anything about bike suspension, but can you not attach a remote control lock-off thingy? My (cheap) bike had one as standard; my friend has the same forks but no remote -- I don't know if you can retro-fit them to all suspension forks...?

Anyway, it still gives a bit of flex, but is much stiffer when the suspension is locked off. I use it for climbing hills or on smooth tarmac.

Retrogamer

The suspension forks on this have lots settings as with the back, both both have "climb" mode which should be using when standing up out the seat.

On climb, the front is virtually locked out. Not possible to fit a remote lock out to these though.
The rear is much stiffer but it isn't locked out.

If i set the rear suspension to climb mode, and put the damper settings to stiff then i can stand out the seat and it doesn't compress too much.

I see this bike as a training machine for my other ones as well. The tyres alone are just over 1kg each and the gears are a bit more difficult in the climbs compared to my hard tail but getting used to it. I've been out 3 out of the last 4 days going mini adventures and pushing it a little more each time. Having lots of fun!

Johnmcl7

What gearing do you have on the hardtail? I have a double on the fat bike but it only loses out on top range compared to the triple on the FS bike which isn't an issue as the fat bike is slower but the hardtail is a 1x11 losing range top and bottom. I don't understand the hype around single chainrings at the front as I hear about how great it is all the time but I just find it a pain, aside from losing range I can't jump a set of gears as I can on a front derailleur setup. I'm not a fan of the SRAM shifter either as it's weird having a shifter in a position for your finger the same as Shimano but you can only use it with your thumb.

John

Retrogamer

I've not had a go of the SRAM shifters before but i have heard they are a little strange.

Gearing on the full suspension is
38-24 up front
11-36 cassette

Gearing on the hard tail is similar
44/32/22 up front
11-34 cassette

The difference i can feel with the gearing is probably down to the 26" wheels vs the 27.5" wheels. Although the ratios are similar, the larger wheels on the full suspension make the gears feel a bit longer.

I'm the same with you on the single chainring up front gearsets that are becoming very popular just now. Not a fan at all.

Sure, you don't have the weight of a front derailer, gear shifter or those chainrings but it seems to be offset by the huge cassette. The cassettes are pretty expensive as well and i'd imagine due to the angles the chain would be sitting it, it'll go through chains a lot quicker.

esuhl

I haven't tried a bike with a single front chainring, but I agree with you guys -- I can't see the appeal for all of the reasons you mentioned... :-/

I finally got to try out my AirZound. I've been cycling for weeks with no incidents, yet today I had a ONE MILE ride (wow!) to the shops. I was cut up badly on the way there... and then again on the way back (where a 4x4 decided to overtake into oncoming traffic and cut me up as he wildly swerved to the left of a traffic island coming off the same roundabout on the other side).

I guess the AirZound didn't offer any protection in these cases, but at least it saved me making myself horse shouting obscenities.

You think a tiny village with narrow roads, and half in a 20mph zone would be the safest place to ride on the roads, but clearly not with the idiots that live here.

Funnily enough, the AirZound didn't deafen me (like it did when I tried it in the house). So, on second thoughts, I don't think it is too loud even on its maximum setting.

Retrogamer

I'd like a miniture one of them for when i'm trying to go for food shopping in the local supermarket to disperse the gossiping folk blocking the aisle

esuhl

Retrogamer wrote: »

I'd like a miniture one of them for when i'm trying to go for food shopping in the local supermarket to disperse the gossiping folk blocking the aisle

Mwah-ha-ha!

I found some instructions on a website recently that explained how to use an MP3 player attached to a ferrous coil to engage the locks on trolley wheels that prevents people from taking them off-site.

I'm not sure if it would really work, but it made me chuckle at the possibility!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Shopping-Cart-Locker-THE-EASY-WAY-Improved-Range/
http://www.instructables.com/id/EMP-shopping-cart-locker/