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Really dumb question about changing gear on a bike!

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  • dotdash79
    dotdash79 Posts: 1,069 Forumite
    I used to peddle like you and travels up to 40 miles, I've changed now and I have more power and a more efficient stroke.

    For rides of 2 and half miles each way it won't be too bad but you might notice some discomfort around the knees. It's not the most efficient way of doing things but you're not racing so not a massive deal.
  • Johnmcl7
    Johnmcl7 Posts: 2,838 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    I'd stick with what's comfortable for you and adjust your position as needed, if you're happy on the bike as it is and not feeling any pain (particularly in your knees) then I'd just keep it as is and enjoy the cycle.

    John
  • Richard53
    Richard53 Posts: 3,173 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    You should pedal with the ball of your foot, not the instep. The flexing of your ankle lets you power round more of the 'circle' than if your foot is flat. Much easier and more efficient when you get the hang of it. Try it for day or two, and I don't think you'll go back.


    As for seat height, the usual advice is to have the seat where your leg is straight when your heel is on the pedal. Then, when you put the ball of your foot on the pedal, you have a slight flex in your knee - best for comfort and to preserve your joints. This means you can't flat-foot with both feet while seated, but you don't need to do this anyway. If you don't like stopping with one foot (or toes) touching the floor, then just slip forward off the saddle when you stop. If the seat is low enough for you to have both feet on the ground, your posture is terrible for actually pedalling, and you won't get anything like the 'push' your legs are capable of.


    Nothing to do with sin - just ergonomic efficiency and long-term comfort.
    If someone is nice to you but rude to the waiter, they are not a nice person.
  • GotToChange
    GotToChange Posts: 1,471 Forumite
    edited 4 July 2014 at 3:01PM
    Pastures New -

    I would have helped you if closer - or if in fact I even knew where you were...

    It has taken me quite some time - and a fair amount of riding - to finally get to "grips" with the gears. This has included labels and codes on the actual handlebars to remind me which gears I was actually changing. I had twist shifters like you and just changed to the far more intuitive trigger shifters - but I still need my labels as it saves looking down - even though I should be able to feel which gear the bike is in - and I can to an extent, but it does take some time.

    I want to suggest to you that you don't spin the gear changers and hope for the best as this could result in damage to the gear mechanisms, which is not ideal when you are meant to be out for lovely ride.

    You will have (I imagine) Back gear changer on your right handlebar - this is to make going up hills easier and the lower the number the easier it should be; you may have ?7 options on this one and will feel most "resistance" at 7 (if your gears are numbered). The left handlebar side is for your Front gears (even though the mechanism is close to your feet) and this may be numbered 1-3 or with + and -. This is for on the flat or going downhill, mostly you will stay in 2 but if you want to give yourself more "work" on a decline, then go up to 3 so you can pedal rather than freewheel down a (gentle) hill. This would be combined with a 7 on the back gears as anything else would mean you were almost "spinning" (which is great in it's place, i.e. a gym).

    x
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