Heating query

GlynD

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

Yip, this is the radiator in the bathroom in my case.

In our case too although we've now changed that to a rad in a cupboard giving us an extra hotpress. I also owned one house where the heat leak rad was in the kitchen. In many cases you can identify which one it is because it'll be fixed higher on the wall because the theory used to be that the heat would go to the highest point. When the workies changed ours however they put it at floor level. So it seems that old theory isn't applied anymore.

Honestly: instead of scratching your head over this get a good plumber in. Heating is a such an important thing, you deserve to have it done right. Put your pride to one side and get the experts in.

Ticked

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

Another thing I read is that the trvs on the rads don't like solid fuel and aren't compatible with it - not sure why this would be.

Asked the workmate brains but the only thing they could come up with is that if all radiators were fitted with TRV's then if the house got warm and all valves closed, there would be nowhere for the heat to go except into the domestic hot water. This would then overheat with the danger of scalding from hot taps. Makes sense! Oil or gas boiler would switch off but solid fuel can't. I know that a heat sink radiator should never be turned off, and I think they should not be fitted with valves.

On another note, when I was installing heating in our present house, I was advised by an old time plumber to make sure that the feed from the expansion tank was connected to the lowest part of the system. I created a connection point lower than any other pipe work. Result, we never have to bleed radiators, no air ever gets into the system.

Nice to save a bit with TRV's etc., but I believe that the most savings are to be made at the boiler, lowering it by a few degrees especially when the weather is mild, like now, will save a lot. As will a handily positioned OFF switch!

highrisklowreturn

Have problem 95% sussed - spoke to a bloke who said to turn the valve at the hot water cylinder down to stop so much heat getting to the water. Initially tried turning it off completely, which resulted in system going cold completely downstairs, and nothing being pumped (seemingly). Then, reopened fully, and turned twice clockwise to partially shut it. Result - all radiators are now functioning to an acceptable standard, living room is 24c, kitchen rad which never worked, only ever lukewarm both with oil and coal, gets if not roasting at least warm and the kitchen is no longer Baltic, and the hall rad gets nice and warm, as do living room ones.

Again I think the 10mm piping is a serious handicap. When I first turned off valve to cylinder, I had to bleed the upstairs rad where the air always congregates when I get a pocket - once bled water came through that literally was scolding to touch - so obviously it's in the piping system somewhere but just doesn't circulate or get through the system for whatever reason.

Next mission is to see if it's dramatically lowered the water heat or amount of hot water. If it hasn't then that's me pretty much set for winter.

GlynD

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

Have problem 95% sussed - spoke to a bloke who said to turn the valve at the hot water cylinder down to stop so much heat getting to the water. Initially tried turning it off completely, which resulted in system going cold completely downstairs, and nothing being pumped (seemingly). Then, reopened fully, and turned twice clockwise to partially shut it. Result - all radiators are now functioning to an acceptable standard, living room is 24c, kitchen rad which never worked, only ever lukewarm both with oil and coal, gets if not roasting at least warm and the kitchen is no longer Baltic, and the hall rad gets nice and warm, as do living room ones.

Again I think the 10mm piping is a serious handicap. When I first turned off valve to cylinder, I had to bleed the upstairs rad where the air always congregates when I get a pocket - once bled water came through that literally was scolding to touch - so obviously it's in the piping system somewhere but just doesn't circulate or get through the system for whatever reason.

Next mission is to see if it's dramatically lowered the water heat or amount of hot water. If it hasn't then that's me pretty much set for winter.

I'm glad to see you're getting to where you want to be at last. I can offer you a tip for that radiator which keeps needing bled. We had the same problem once and on the advice of a plumber I installed an Aladdin self bleed radiator valve. They're not expensive and do what they say they do. After installing it we never had to bleed our system again. It was easy to install as well. Just shut down the inlet, remove the entire bleed valve mechanism and replace it with the Aladdin then open the inlet valve again.

Sometimes when you're walking past the radiator you'll actually hear it venting air through the Aladdin valve. Here's a link for you to buy one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aladdin-Autovent-30C-Radiator-Bleeder/dp/B002OE1GRG/ref=sr_1_5/277-0262907-4992603?ie=UTF8&qid=1385633401&sr=8-5&keywords=aladdin+valve

highrisklowreturn

Thanks but this wouldn't fit my rads - they're old fashioned with either one or two bleed points for each panel which have a 2-3 mm metal 'dowel' in them which screw out, although the idea of this is nice.

Have turned the valve on the hot water cylinder back another turn clockwise to see if this heats any quicker.

GlynD

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

Thanks but this wouldn't fit my rads - they're old fashioned with either one or two bleed points for each panel which have a 2-3 mm metal 'dowel' in them which screw out, although the idea of this is nice.

Have turned the valve on the hot water cylinder back another turn clockwise to see if this heats any quicker.

I understand that Aladdin do self bleed valves to fit all radiators.

RTNI

Are these the ones for the radiators you need? I also have this old type of radiator with the bleed screw/nipple at the end of the radiator on the top corner.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aladdin-Micro-Radiator-Auto-Vent/dp/B001PT0DNY/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1385745306&sr=1-4&keywords=radiator+vent

GlynD

victorfirst wrote: »

All that air in your system is very bad . It needs to be fixed properly rather than just removing the air. The air you take out is bringing oxygen into the system and making your system corrode

Which is a problem I've had in the last two weeks. The installation of two new rads disturbed the sludge and is affecting the rads in several places. The only way to fix it is to get a power flush costing £300+ and then to put in the additive which should have been in the system already but wasn't.

The power flush could show weaknesses in the system and lead to the replacement of one or more vales or even rads. All for the want of a bottle of additive.

As for air. Nothing beats the Aladdin self bleeding valve. Yes check for any major leaks in the system but a micro leak won't be noticeable. It'll let air in but won't let water out. That's when you need an Aladdin valve.