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Smoking Kenwood Chef! - its Dead!!!
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Many thanks to George Bray.
I used his Cricklewood Electronics receipt to order parts from them (search on the left hand column codes).
To clarify on the receipt:
Only one CXR100N was required
2W560R should be 2E56R
10W1R5 isn't needed
I substituted C2K1N0 for C3K1N0 which wasn't available.
The 9 parts showing in the picture are correct. The colour codes on the resistor are 56ohm.
Parts came from Cricklewood next day for under £9 including postage.
Fitted in under 2 hours and now working. Probably didn't need all the parts - some were obviously blown when I removed them.0 -
Many thanks also to George Bray! :T Four years later and I managed to get back to England and visit the Cricklewood shop, which is about half an hour away from my parents's house (I now live in New Zealand). Some of the parts aren't available here. Total cost for parts was about five quid (bought in person).
One thing to note is that the speed control works by proximity. On the bottom of the motor fan is a magnet, and two pins from the bottom of the circuit board are moved closer and further away from this magnet to adjust the speed. Make sure that when you put the circuit board back you tighten the screws so that in the off position it is as close to the magnet as possible while still being adjustable when you turn the switch. If you don't and just leave it screwed in enough to hold it, the motor will accelerate to maximum speed and will not respond to the speed control. I learned this the hard way, and it took me an hour of scratching my head to work out what it was that I hadn't done/replaced.
Here is the list of the parts I used, which is a combination of George's receipt and brian_1945's amendments. I don't know if it matters, but I installed the ceramic capacitors with the text facing the big grey capacitor behind it. All the codes on the left can be pasted into Cricklewood's website search engine.
CXR100N X2 rated 100 nF
CXR150N X2 rated 150 nF
CPE470N Polydip 470 nF 250V
CPE15N Polydip 15nF 400V
CPE2U2 Polydip 2.2 uF 250V
BTA08-600SW TRIAC F220 600V 8A 10mA
C2K1N0 Ceramic 1nF 3KV (two of them)
2W560R CF 2W 560R
This list was accurate on the 26th of August 2015.
Good luck!0 -
Just to support and expand a little on what Lapis said about the adjustment screws. I had the opposite problem: tightened them up too much, resulting in a machine that - until I worked out what was going on, and slackened them off - wouldn't come on at all. Arguably a worse thing to do; I spent ages trying to work out what I'd done wrong with the electronics before I tumbled to the actual cause. Oh, and in the case of my machine, at least, I found that it also ran somewhat slower at low speeds the right way up than when upside down on my bench; I had to set it a bit faster on the bench than I wanted, to get a decent start-up speed when reassembled.0
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Fantastic information. 30 year old machine. Reluctant to replace with more modern stuff. Started smoking in the middle of bread mixing. With all your fantastic information and photos, I'm going to repair it. AT the moment don't know how to access the 'board'. I'm sure I'll find out if I keep looking on this thread! Thankyou so much for posting.JTW0
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Just want to thank all you guys for posting the info about the Kenwood. It's fabulous information for someone like me who doesn't even know what a capacitor is or what it does! But I'll have a go anyway. JTW0
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Hi there! My A902 blew up some months ago. I decided to buy online the replacement card; I changed it today, set up the correct speed (45RPM at min. speed of the planetary hub) and everything is PERFECT!!!
Now I'd like to change the broken capacitor in the old card......just in case......so I have a ready backup (never knows....). It's the 0,15 uF capacitor which has blown out, but I have a "strange" question: it is incapsulated in a kind of orange plastic, kind of solid wax all over it which tightenes it to the raw card.
How can I take it out? Any hint about how to dissolve and remove it? (I have read the full topic but nobody talked about such a thing....)
Thank you very much
Anna (from Italy)0 -
Hi Anna
You can scrape a edge with a sharp knife to release the bond, I just bought the same components lapis mentions
CXR100N X2 rated 100 nF
CXR150N X2 rated 150 nF
CPE470N Polydip 470 nF 250V
CPE15N Polydip 15nF 400V
CPE2U2 Polydip 2.2 uF 250V
BTA08-600SW TRIAC F220 600V 8A 10mA
C2K1N0 Ceramic 1nF 3KV (two of them)
2W560R CF 2W 560R
£10.19 delivered0 -
I've also just had the "smoke from Kenwood Chef" problem.
Searching around, I found its very common, a few components on the motor speed control fail, partly because they've degraded with age (mine is about 30 years old) and partly because the designers didn't know at the time this would happen. There are plenty of replacement kits available, and the parts are common ones from electrical suppliers. I bought a kit from a Kenwood parts supplier on ebay, it was cheaper than using the Kenwood Company site which has a link to their parts supplier.
It just needs care and ability with a soldering iron, but if you can't do it yourself, a local person who repairs washing machines, TVs or radios should be able to do it.
There are several models of chef, and so the kits vary depending which you have. There is a maker's identification label on the inside of the case, you can see it if you lie the machine on its side. As this is such a common repair, the suppliers of kits may have photos or be able to explain how to identify yours if you can't read the label.
There are also complete new motors available, with more power, and some have a better ball-bearing motor that should be quieter, and there is at least one Kenwood Restoration company that will rebuild it like new. But the cost of a complete restoration builds up so it's more for the sentimental owner or enthusiast.
I have quite a number of attachments which wouldn't fit a new machine, so I am repairing my old one. It should cost me less than £20 if I do it myself.
Mine is an A901P0
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