We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.
This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
Wall socket bolt sheared off

Leif
Posts: 3,727 Forumite
I'm replacing some old switches and plug sockets (just the front bits) in my house (power turned off at the switch box). Anyway, last night while removing a retaining bolt to remove the socket cover, it sheared off leaving a stub in the little flange inside the socket box. Any ideas how I remove the stub? It only projects a tiny amount, maybe 2mm if I am lucky.
My guesses are to dab some WD40 on the flange and stub, leave to soak in, then try with snub nosed pliers. The worst case is perhaps to use a hand drill and cobalt bit to drill out the stub. If the thread is destroyed, enlarge the hole and epoxy a nut behind the flange.
My guesses are to dab some WD40 on the flange and stub, leave to soak in, then try with snub nosed pliers. The worst case is perhaps to use a hand drill and cobalt bit to drill out the stub. If the thread is destroyed, enlarge the hole and epoxy a nut behind the flange.
Warning: This forum may contain nuts.
0
Comments
-
Wouldn't it be easier/quicker to just replace the whole back box?Herman - MP for all!0
-
Wouldn't it be easier/quicker to just replace the whole back box?
The edges of the socket box are under the plaster, so removal would cause damage to the plaster requiring a patch e.g. Easifill. Not impossible, but I think I'd rather remove the bolt stub if possible.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
2mm is just enough to get some sort of grip on. Don't see that WD40 is going to be much use. The fact that it sheared implies that its cross threaded anyway. I'd just go for the brute force and ignorance approach meself.
The edges of the socket always overlap the backbox. So you could easily carefully trim back the plaster beyond the edges of the box to the point where you could remove the backbox without having to make good afterwards. You'll need to be careful though depending on how securely its in the wall.
Cheers.The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
I agree with Keystone here.
A bit of grunting, lots of swearing and a tantrum here and there should help get it out.
There are other options (already mentioned) but I'd try this approach first because you've nothing to lose.
PS. If you need a list of helpful swear words, let me know :beer:You have been reading.....another magnificent post by garethgas :beer:0 -
Thanks. Righty ho, "The Builders Book of Swear Words, Volume 1" (100 volumes in the series) is at hand ...Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0
-
If the broken screw is on the adjustable side of the box then you should be able to remove the whole of the fixing bracket and deal with it on the work bench. Obviously this would not be an option if the screw is stuck in the fixed mounting bracket.I can afford anything that I want.
Just so long as I don't want much.0 -
Using a small metal drill bit, drill out the centre of the bolt. Once you've drilled this out, the pliers should be able to compress the thread and release it from the backbox. Either that or the whole bolt will collapse and allow you to pull it out.0
-
Use mole grips rather than pliers.0
-
Using a small metal drill bit, drill out the centre of the bolt. Once you've drilled this out, the pliers should be able to compress the thread and release it from the backbox. Either that or the whole bolt will collapse and allow you to pull it out.
I thought about that and I would have to use a hand drill as I am not prepared to work on the socket while it is live. My experience with drilling out a bolt from a door is that it is very hard if not impossible to ensure the drill goes through the centre, especially since the bolt is small, and the broken end is rough.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
There is such a thing as an "easy out" used by mechanics, but there is no need if you have 2mm to grab hold of, just lock a pair of mole grips onto it and give it a yank.0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 351.9K Banking & Borrowing
- 253.5K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 454.1K Spending & Discounts
- 244.9K Work, Benefits & Business
- 600.5K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 177.4K Life & Family
- 258.7K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.2K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards