Shortening trousers: what am I doing wrong?

lostinrates

When shortening trousers for mother/sister, I've always done it by pinning on them in shoes and then sewing, its not been difficult, but just been trying to pin trousers for DH and I can't get them right. Would it work to take the inside leg measurement to the point they should come to on the shoe and measure that on the inseam and take up? His legs look the same length.

Bronnie

Personally I always find it better to work in the flat with hems, rather than pin up all round. I think it's a more accurate way to get a straight hem.

I would get him to wear the trousers with the correct shoes. Mark with a pin crossways, the correct length on the inner and outer seam, then take them off, lay them flat and pin up the hem between these points. I am a great believer in pressing as you go when doing this sort of thing, but I believe hems should not be 'hammered' into place with the iron, rather gently pressed.
HTH

Jojo_the_Tightfisted

Depends where you want the crumple to fall, or whether he wants straight or angled hems. I would pin them with him standing on stool first, concentrating on heel edge (as that's the one which makes it look rubbish if it's too long or too short), then inside leg seam and outside edge - and then taking them off, checking length and pressing with a damp flannel before making final alterations.

But many people have one leg shorter than the other, so it may be useful (and quite entertaining) for you to take both his inside leg measurements.

Men are also silly sometimes and shift their weight from one foot to the other as you pin, which could also affect the length.

Bronnie

LIR, Jojo sounds more of an expert than me!!! I would be following her advice, I am just an amateur!!!!!

lostinrates

Thank you both.

Its pinning I find really hard. He seems to find standing still during pinning abhorant. I do find the height at the back first and then both sides but they all seems different.

Um.....angled hems? which way should they angle? Maybe this is the problem!

Jojo_the_Tightfisted

Thank you! OK, one style of trouser has the seam sloping upwards from the heel to the forefoot like so /. It's a bit tricky to get spot on and few styles have it nowdays. It's probably not worth worrying about if he's a fussing fidgetbucket anyway.

Stand him in his shoes, trousers, belt, etc, as if he doesn't bother with these for alterations, it may go completely wrong once he puts them on. You may have to give him the back of a chair to rest both his hands on to try and keep him still. Alternatively, stand him on a stool in the hallway, feet hip width apart and have him touch both walls with his hands straight out and palms flat against the wall (like he's trying to not slide down it).

Pin the mid heel, pins going vertically rather than horizontally. Put about 3 pins to the back on each side. Threaten to stab him with the pins if he fidgets. It is probable that he's shifting from side to side as you move around. A bit of flirting may concentrate his mind a little more (I won't go into details, obviously...)

Then turn them up gently and allow to hang as they would when altered, to see if the trouser crumples in the right place (usually at the bit you would stand on if you were 5 and having a dance with your dad). Pin loosely - a bit of chalk to mark the point is also quite handy - or white eyeliner pencil on the inside of the trousers if you are desperate!

Remove from fussing fidgetbottom.

Take trousers to flat, clear table. Compare and contrast. The inner and outer edges should match (use tape to check from one leg to the other, and from the top of the trousers down, rather than from the original seam up). If there is a bit of a slope for any reason, it is best that it is rising from the heel up to the forefoot rather than the opposite, as it will be hidden by the crumple.

If it just looks horribly, completely wrong and you are fed up of throwing things away, try a local tailors. We have one that does alterations for our Marks & Sparks, and they do them for under a tenner, which is less than the cost of replacing trousers if they get ruined.

Good luck!

lostinrates

Jojo, you are fabulous! Thank you! Last time I did send them out, but its gets pricey and i know this SHOULD be within my capability.

Excellent staning still tips!! And belt....I've had him in shoes but not belt thank you, thank you!

tangojulie

A tip I picked up from a tailor is that the right length for trousers is often found most easily by trying them on without shoes and pinning up the heel side so that it just touches the floor. With shoes, this gives the right clearance (does depend on the shoes of course!)

You might persuade him to stand still long enough for you to get this pinned, then you could do the rest at your leisure and just ask him for a final quick check before you cut/sew.

Good luck!

Estimator1

Maybe I take shortcuts, but I do it really easily.
Try trousers on, and pin front & back at the centre crease. Only one leg needs doing.
Take them off, & measure how much has been pinned up (let's say, for example 2.5 inches) . take off on an allowance for the hem (say 1/2 an inch), then mark all round a line 2 inches from the bottom of the existing hem, which is where you cut them.
Then simply overlock, pin with a 1/2 inch hem, and sew up.

Bought trousers never make allowances for different individual leg lengths, and to be honest, who really looks at trouser hems?? Unless of course they look really silly, half-mast ones.
It's always better to be a bit on the longer side rather than shorter.

mistynite

measure the inside leg of a pair he wears often & likes the length of, then using paperclips pin the new ones to the same length, get him to try them on (with a belt if he normally wears one) and then adjust the length if necessary. My man fidgets most when trying to watch what I am doing as he assumes I might stab him with a pin. :rotfl: