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  • FIRST POST
    • Jamiesmum
    • By Jamiesmum 11th Oct 16, 10:19 AM
    • 310Posts
    • 364Thanks
    Jamiesmum
    Engine light on U1900
    • #1
    • 11th Oct 16, 10:19 AM
    Engine light on U1900 11th Oct 16 at 10:19 AM
    2005 Focus, engine light came on, diagnostic reader is saying U1900. Tried it with 2 different ones both say the same and the book doesn't say what it could be, I tried google but many threads are for multiple codes at once. I've only got this, if I clear it then restart the car comes on with no issues.

    When first starting the car it says either 'Power steering failure' 'Speed limited' 'Acceleration limited' or 'Engine system failure' ABS light comes on in orange, occasionally red, engine light on. None consistent, all showing at different times, seems to be random. Sometimes nothing at all.

    Sometimes the car won't even start, key just turning + electrics start and that is it. Can do this for anything up to 5 minutes. Sometimes it starts with no issues and sometimes the above lights flash on.

    Can't work until it's fixed, but dreading taking it to a garage - is it ok to drive if I get it on without the lights? Shall I just scrap it now?

    Not had any issues with the car yet needing big repairs (brakes done, tyres done, cosmetic damage etc) so it's highly possibly it's about to set off a huge chain reaction of repairs, I guess? Old car, just about to hit 90000 miles on it.

    Any ideas/advice/comments, thanks
Page 1
    • wongataa
    • By wongataa 11th Oct 16, 10:41 AM
    • 847 Posts
    • 449 Thanks
    wongataa
    • #2
    • 11th Oct 16, 10:41 AM
    • #2
    • 11th Oct 16, 10:41 AM
    Well a quick Google seems to say that U1900 is a CAN communication fault. A CAN fault could cause other errors as bits of the car can't talk to each other properly which could explain the other random issues you see.

    Personally I wouldn't want to drive the car until it was fixed in case there were issues that suddenly appeared whilst driving. Unless you are willing to try and fix an electrical problem your options are take it to a garage and see what they suggest or get rid of the car.
    • Jamiesmum
    • By Jamiesmum 11th Oct 16, 10:50 AM
    • 310 Posts
    • 364 Thanks
    Jamiesmum
    • #3
    • 11th Oct 16, 10:50 AM
    • #3
    • 11th Oct 16, 10:50 AM
    Well a quick Google seems to say that U1900 is a CAN communication fault. A CAN fault could cause other errors as bits of the car can't talk to each other properly which could explain the other random issues you see.

    Personally I wouldn't want to drive the car until it was fixed in case there were issues that suddenly appeared whilst driving. Unless you are willing to try and fix an electrical problem your options are take it to a garage and see what they suggest or get rid of the car.
    Originally posted by wongataa
    Thanks. Is the CAN an abbreviation for something? I thought it may be an electrical fault. Is everything related to the fuse box or would it run much further than that? If I had a look at the fuses would it tell me anything that may be helpful?

    Also is this a problem that could literally appear over night or would it have been over sometime, maybe I've missed the signs.

    I'll take a quick google from what you said too, thank you
    • shaun from Africa
    • By shaun from Africa 11th Oct 16, 11:00 AM
    • 8,715 Posts
    • 9,777 Thanks
    shaun from Africa
    • #4
    • 11th Oct 16, 11:00 AM
    • #4
    • 11th Oct 16, 11:00 AM
    Thanks. Is the CAN an abbreviation for something?
    Originally posted by Jamiesmum
    It's the Controller Area Network which is basically a network cable that connects the various processors in a system.
    The first thing I would do is to remove and clean the connectors that go onto the engine management module and any other electronic modules that the car may have.
    • gabitzul
    • By gabitzul 11th Oct 16, 11:32 AM
    • 216 Posts
    • 86 Thanks
    gabitzul
    • #5
    • 11th Oct 16, 11:32 AM
    • #5
    • 11th Oct 16, 11:32 AM
    Have the battery tested, as if it is on its way out it could throw out this sort of random errors.

    Or if in doubt just get a new one, if the original is still in place (it will say Motorcraft on it), it's due a replacement anyway.
    • Gloomendoom
    • By Gloomendoom 11th Oct 16, 11:59 AM
    • 11,488 Posts
    • 15,390 Thanks
    Gloomendoom
    • #6
    • 11th Oct 16, 11:59 AM
    • #6
    • 11th Oct 16, 11:59 AM
    Something as simple as a bad earth could be the culprit.
    Advice; it rhymes with mice. Advise; it rhymes with wise.
    • EdGasket
    • By EdGasket 11th Oct 16, 3:13 PM
    • 3,031 Posts
    • 1,234 Thanks
    EdGasket
    • #7
    • 11th Oct 16, 3:13 PM
    • #7
    • 11th Oct 16, 3:13 PM
    Check earths as suggested then try a specialist auto-electrician; not just a general garage that might start replacing parts willy nilly. Also ask about it on a Ford Focus forum; you are probably not the only person to have this happen.

    e.g.

    http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic110446.aspx

    was a loose connector under the kick panel.
    Last edited by EdGasket; 11-10-2016 at 3:16 PM.
    • forgotmyname
    • By forgotmyname 11th Oct 16, 4:52 PM
    • 23,356 Posts
    • 9,210 Thanks
    forgotmyname
    • #8
    • 11th Oct 16, 4:52 PM
    • #8
    • 11th Oct 16, 4:52 PM
    U1900 CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

    Get a better reader there maybe more than one fault but the reader is only showing the one.

    Engine wont start, duff battery? Immobiliser issue is the LED for the immobiliser working properly? Flashing rapidly when it wont start?

    Try the spare key.

    90,000 miles is nothing for a car thats looked after properly. Mines got half as much again and my last one has gone past 200,000 miles and flew through the MOT with no advisories.
    Punctuation, Spelling and Grammar will be used sparingly. Due to rising costs of inflation.

    My contribution to MSE. Other contributions will only be used if they cost me nothing.

    Due to me being a tight git.
    • Jamiesmum
    • By Jamiesmum 11th Oct 16, 7:09 PM
    • 310 Posts
    • 364 Thanks
    Jamiesmum
    • #9
    • 11th Oct 16, 7:09 PM
    • #9
    • 11th Oct 16, 7:09 PM
    Thanks for all the replies! We've checked with 2 fault readers but I think actually they may have been the same model.

    The car is driving without any faults + starting first time every time since I tried at 11. Is it possible to have issues only when the car is cold? Topped up the brake fluid today, it was quite low. The abs light has me the most paranoid.

    I will also get the battery checked first thing on Thursday.

    Don't have a spare key, but could go get another cut no issues, wouldn't be remote though.

    The immobiliser is flashing red when needed, all lights working when something is wrong.

    As far as the electrics go, I can have a general check with instructions but really, I'm not gonna have much of a clue so I will ask around and see if I know anyone who is any good. If not, what type of google search will get me best results? Are any electricians going to be any good, or are car electrics a different game?

    Appreciate the replies, thank you
    • forgotmyname
    • By forgotmyname 11th Oct 16, 8:28 PM
    • 23,356 Posts
    • 9,210 Thanks
    forgotmyname
    immobiliser flashing when needed? but what does it do when you attempt to start the car and it wont start?

    A new key may cost you approx £160, unless you get a clone of yours. But the clone may give the same issue as the key you have now.
    Dont buy a modern car without the full set of keys.
    Punctuation, Spelling and Grammar will be used sparingly. Due to rising costs of inflation.

    My contribution to MSE. Other contributions will only be used if they cost me nothing.

    Due to me being a tight git.
    • EdGasket
    • By EdGasket 11th Oct 16, 9:18 PM
    • 3,031 Posts
    • 1,234 Thanks
    EdGasket
    You need a specialist car/auto electrician.

    If the fault is intermittent it sounds like a bad connection, corroded contact/earth, or a plug coming loose. More difficult to find would be a dry solder joint on a board somewhere. Unfortunately unless the car is exhibiting the fault, even an auto-electrician is going to be stumped.

    What I suggest is you google the fault code and 'Focus' and note what other people found the faults to be. Then if you can't check these yourself, you can at least suggest to an auto-electrician that they check those things for him to either fix or eliminate them.
    • RickRastardly
    • By RickRastardly 11th Oct 16, 10:44 PM
    • 6 Posts
    • 2 Thanks
    RickRastardly
    Could be a few things but probably something quite simple but I agree with what some people have suggested. Start with the simple stuff first
    1- The condition of the battery, as you try and start you're car, if you have a battery with a dead cell the voltage will drop significantly, suddenly as the starter motor draws current, which will cause errors.
    2- Negative to chassis cable. It can sometimes look like a giant braided metal cable, the cable itself is probably find, but the connection between the cable and the crimp to the chassis can corrode/rust causing a bad earth, this can give you all sorts of problems and its consistent with the age of you're car.
    3- Water getting into the ECU connections/cables, do you notice its worse after a cold wet night?
    • Jamiesmum
    • By Jamiesmum 12th Oct 16, 7:26 PM
    • 310 Posts
    • 364 Thanks
    Jamiesmum
    Car took around 20 minutes to get started today. The immobiliser light is just staying a bold red when I try to start the engine. Once it doesn't start and an error comes up it starts flashing.

    Maybe I should have mentioned someone hit the back of my car a few weeks ago, I just had the bumper and rear passenger side panel replaced a couple weeks ago. On testing out the car today I see that the fog light isn't working on that side. There is a wire which looks loose underneath the car which appears to be leading to that light. Probably a different problem entirely though. Pulled it a bit tighter but still not working, will get a new bulb and see if that works.

    As I went over a speed bump today the speedo stopped working and flashed down to 0. Speed limited message came up - though it continued to drive until I managed to pull over. Turned car off and on and message went. Then happened again on a bumpy road about 10 minutes later.

    Car seems to run / start better as the day goes on, the engine light goes off, but then gets more tricky as the evening comes / weather gets colder. So I notice a huge change then.

    So I really don't know if it's a cold issue or a electrical issue or a bit of both. I don't think I'm going to get to the bottom of it myself so I will just have to try find an expert in that field.

    Would an extra service be able to pull up any potential issues or is that a waste of money/try.
    • Jamiesmum
    • By Jamiesmum 13th Oct 16, 7:11 PM
    • 310 Posts
    • 364 Thanks
    Jamiesmum
    Had the battery tested today, battery running perfectly. No issues there. Shame really, I was hoping it would be as easy as that. Then got a quote from a car specialist that made my eyes water.

    Tomorrow as my last attempt will be removing the instrumental panel + checking all is ok. Otherwise I'm stumped.
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