Replace Plastic Washer on Cold Bath Tap

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Hi,

My next door neigbour has an issue where they need to replace the rubber washer on the upstairs cold bathroom tap.

However, they do not have isolation valves on the pipe leading to this tap by looking under the bath.

My understanding is that they have a cold water tank in the loft, which I'm assuming is what feeds the cold water supply for the upstairs bathroom.

Would they be able to isolate this from the cold water tank (I haven't been up there, but wonder if they have a valve I could turn to shut the cold water supply from the cold water tank to the cold tap/toilet)?

I also know they have a Hot Water Copper Cylinder which feeds the hot water for the house and this located in an airing cupboard. Here I can see a number of pipes, and two of which feel cold to the touch. One of these cold pipes is 22mm which seems to bend round to behind the hot water cylinder (I can't see if it feeds it), and the other is 15mm straight pipe which goes from floor to ceiling into the loft.

Does anyone know what I could do to cut the cold water supply to the bathroom cold tap?

Many thanks
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:)

Comments

  • maninthestreet
    maninthestreet Posts: 16,127 Forumite
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    Have they looked in the airing cupboard (assuming it is upstairs) - that's where the gate valve that controls the flow of water from the loft tank to upstairs cold taps and cistern resides in my house.
    "You were only supposed to blow the bl**dy doors off!!"
  • dggar
    dggar Posts: 670 Forumite
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    Do you know for certain that this Cold tap is fed from the water tank in the loft.


    It may be fed direct from the cold water feed to the house.


    I would start by closing the main stop c0ck to the house and then checking if the cold tap still runs. If it doesn't run you can go ahead and replace the washer.
  • Owain_Moneysaver
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    If the tap is fed from the loft tank and they can't turn off the water to the tank, and they don't want to drain the loft tank, then they can use tank bungs.

    If they don't want to buy tank bungs, a carrot in the tank outlet is the traditional way.

    Alternatively a service valve can be installed 'live' with a
    http://www.screwfix.com/p/aladdin-easy-fit-isolator-starter-pack/36008
    A kind word lasts a minute, a skelped erse is sair for a day.
  • bravotango
    bravotango Posts: 112 Forumite
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    Sorry for the delay, but I've been away at work, and now my neighbour is away for the next two/three weeks on holiday.

    Once they are back, I'll speak to them to find out more information.

    It is definitely fed from the water tank in the loft, as their house is the same as ours using Water Tank and F&E tank in the loft.

    Options I have based on what people have said:

    (1) Gate Valve in the Airing Cupboard - They do have a gate valve in the airing cupboard, and so may have a look at that (this is linked to a 22mm copper pipe that runs behind the hot water cylinder and is cold to the touch as I mentioned in my original post). Although, I've heard that these can be stuck. If this is the case, how do I get it unstuck without forcing it.

    (2) Water tank Bungs - Could be an idea. Do I buy these from any DIY shop, or does it have to be a plumbers merchant? Also, are these risky to use if the bung becomes loose?

    (3) Carrot - Another interesting idea. Not looked at the size of the hole in the loft water tank. What diameter of carrot is needed? (I don't know if my water tank in my loft can be used as an example size?)

    Thanks
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    :)
  • dggar
    dggar Posts: 670 Forumite
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    bravotango wrote: »
    Sorry for the delay, but I've been away at work, and now my neighbour is away for the next two/three weeks on holiday.

    Once they are back, I'll speak to them to find out more information.

    It is definitely fed from the water tank in the loft, as their house is the same as ours using Water Tank and F&E tank in the loft.

    Options I have based on what people have said:

    (1) Gate Valve in the Airing Cupboard - They do have a gate valve in the airing cupboard, and so may have a look at that (this is linked to a 22mm copper pipe that runs behind the hot water cylinder and is cold to the touch as I mentioned in my original post). Although, I've heard that these can be stuck. If this is the case, how do I get it unstuck without forcing it.

    (2) Water tank Bungs - Could be an idea. Do I buy these from any DIY shop, or does it have to be a plumbers merchant? Also, are these risky to use if the bung becomes loose?

    (3) Carrot - Another interesting idea. Not looked at the size of the hole in the loft water tank. What diameter of carrot is needed? (I don't know if my water tank in my loft can be used as an example size?)

    Thanks


    I was once told that a gate valve should be opened fully and then turned back by about 1/4 of turn. this is supposed to stop sticking. When you come to try turning the valve, if it doesn't move easily clockwise check to see if you can turn it anti clockwise at all.

    You state that the pipe feeding the cylinder is 22m so you need a British Standard carrot with a taper from less than 22mm to greater than 22mm. icon7.gif
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