New sash& case windows fitted- problems?

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Hi
Hoping someone can help me please. I've just had two new wood sash& case windows fitted ( the whole lot including box) and I'm not sure whether there might be some problems I should mention to the fitting company.

I've noticed that on one window the lower sash is a nice snug fit on one side but on the other there is definite movement.
The lower rail doesn't fit really snugly over the sill - I can see a gap (although it is very small).
There is no filling between the new window frame and the surrounding wood wall panelling - is that something they should do or is it normal for this to be left for when they get painted. (they are not painting)

I just want to know if my concerns are valid. I don't want to take it up with the company if what I'm describing is acceptable/isn't an issue.
Can anyone give me some advice what I should be looking for when checking both windows have been fitted correctly and are not going to allow draughts etc through. I'm not a DIY'er or very knowledgeable about these matters so any help in non-technical terms please!
Thank you

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  • imho
    imho Posts: 2,515 Forumite
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    My son works for a well know Sash Window Company so i have some idea on the price you paid.You should call up who ever fitted the new windows and tell them what u think is wrong. If it was a big company they might have a window fitter passing your home who will check the work that was done.
  • chickalittle
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    Thanks Imho - I haven't made the balance of payment yet. Its more that I wanted some advice about what to look for to ensure the fitting is corrrect before I do pay. Whether a gap - even if it's only a small one between the lower sash rail and the sill might allow drafts? and whether it's normal to have some movement in the window as I described, which might lead to the window becoming "rattly" and drafty.

    I know I can raise it with the fitters but if they say it's all fine and not to worry, I really don't know any better.
  • leveller2911
    leveller2911 Posts: 8,061 Forumite
    edited 22 April 2015 at 3:57PM
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    Thanks Imho - I haven't made the balance of payment yet. Its more that I wanted some advice about what to look for to ensure the fitting is corrrect before I do pay. Whether a gap - even if it's only a small one between the lower sash rail and the sill might allow drafts? and whether it's normal to have some movement in the window as I described, which might lead to the window becoming "rattly" and drafty.

    Hi Chickalittle,
    If the gap between the bottom rail and the sill is tight one end but not the other it means the sash isn't quite square to the frame. If the bottom rail is fitted with a draught excluder then its not a problem, just a little niggle really. Are there brush pile draught excluders fitted to the parting beads and staff beads?. The part bead seperates the two sashes and the staff bead is the bead on the inside of the frame next to the bottom sash.
    I know I can raise it with the fitters but if they say it's all fine and not to worry, I really don't know any better.
    Its worth mentioning to the fitters and they may be able to adjust the sash fasteners to pull the bottom sash down a bit tighter to the sill.
  • chickalittle
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    Thanks Leveller. I've had a look at few You Tube vidoes so I know which parts you mean. The casement frames did have the weatherproof pile fitted but I need to look at the parting and staffing beads when I get home. I think I should be able to see them if they are fitted?
    The gap at the bottom is the same all the way across. The movement I described on one side is that I can move the window in/out whereas on the other side the window it doesn't move at all when opening/ closing. Hard to describe but hope you get my gist! I'm just worried that this movement will become worse in time and that's when I will be back to having problems with loose/drafty windows.
  • leveller2911
    leveller2911 Posts: 8,061 Forumite
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    Thanks Leveller. I've had a look at few You Tube vidoes so I know which parts you mean. The casement frames did have the weatherproof pile fitted but I need to look at the parting and staffing beads when I get home. I think I should be able to see them if they are fitted?

    Yes, You should be able to see the weather pile between the sash stile (sides) and the part beads.I use a different type called a "bubble" which is made of foam with a PTFE coating that slides very easily ,cuts out the draughts but also paint doesn't stick to it. The downside to using brush seals is when the sashes/frames are painted and the sashes are slid up and down paint clogs up the brush pile. Having said that lots of companies still use it.
    The gap at the bottom is the same all the way across.

    Ok, If thats the case then either the bottom sash is kept up slightly by the draught excluder, so its doing its job.The other possibility is the weights in the pockets are slightly too heavy for the bottom sash and the weights pulling downwards lifts the sash up. I always make the weights for the bottom sash exactly the same weight as the sash and the weights for the top sash a couple of LB's heavier so the top sash fits nice and tight to the top of the head pulley stile (top of the box).


    The movement I described on one side is that I can move the window in/out whereas on the other side the window it doesn't move at all when opening/ closing. Hard to describe but hope you get my gist! I'm just worried that this movement will become worse in time and that's when I will be back to having problems with loose/drafty windows.

    If thats happening on the bottom sash then I would say they have pinned the staff bead a little tighter to the sash on one side than the other. It shouldn't be a problem ,as long as the sashes move up and down nicely,draught excluders fitted and fasteners are locking fasteners on any ground floor windows as most insurance companies insist on them being lockable you will be fine.

    Are they double glazed?. They should work really nicely with the top sashes not dropping down at all and neither should the bottom sash.
  • chickalittle
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    Hi Leveller,

    I checked my staff & parting beadings and neither have any draft proofing on them. It only seems to have been fitted around the actual window casement itself. Is this something I should ask them to do - they did say the windows would be fully draft proofed. I think, having googled the draft proofing stuff that what they used was bubble too.

    Yes, they are whole new wood double glazed sash and case windows.

    I also looked more closely at the parting beading on the side of the window which I felt had some movement and I can feel that the parting beading is a bit looser than the other side. So I'm guessing if they tighten it up that will improve.

    Many thanks for your help and knowledge! :)
  • leveller2911
    leveller2911 Posts: 8,061 Forumite
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    Hi Leveller,
    I checked my staff & parting beadings and neither have any draft proofing on them. It only seems to have been fitted around the actual window casement itself. Is this something I should ask them to do - they did say the windows would be fully draft proofed. I think, having googled the draft proofing stuff that what they used was bubble too.

    It sounds like they do the same as me which is fit the draught excluders to the actual sash rather than the frame,I think it looks more discrete and it works well.

    Yes, they are whole new wood double glazed sash and case windows.

    Double glazed sash windows work really well but they aren't cheap as you tend to need lead weights with them which is really expensive compared to cast iron.
    I also looked more closely at the parting beading on the side of the window which I felt had some movement and I can feel that the parting beading is a bit looser than the other side. So I'm guessing if they tighten it up that will improve.

    As long as the part bead isn't too loose that it comes out of the groove its fine.Part beads need to be machined just right.If they are too slack they can come out of the groove and the sashes won't work correctly, too tight and you can't get them out to fit the cords.
    Many thanks for your help and knowledge! :)

    You're welcome , I love making sash windows and get a buzz from knowing something I have made may well still be around in 100 years time..
  • littlerock
    littlerock Posts: 1,774 Forumite
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    my restored sash window has small"brush " strip on bottom outer edge which makes it draught proof when window is closed
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