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Automatic Car - driving tips
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I once sat behind a Saab at some traffic lights in Leeds city centre, sitting there with his brakes and indicators on. I counted over 400W of lighting in my face (brake lights, high-level lights, fog lights, an indicator and a repeater). As I was on a motorbike and it was raining, each of those lights was multiplied by the raindrops. It was blinding.
Two simple rules: if you are stopping for longer than ten seconds, put the handbrake on; and if you are stationary, kill your indicator until you move off.If someone is nice to you but rude to the waiter, they are not a nice person.0 -
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I'm reminded of one of Viz's Top Tips: motorists! Make your neighbours think you have an expensive automatic car by briefly engaging reverse before you drive away in the mornings.
Oddly enough, modern Land Rover autos have a delay of 1/2 second before turning on the reversing light, so you don't get the brief flash as you shift through from P to D
(Presume other manufacturers do this too, never tried.)0 -
I had an old Land Rover that did that. Sometimes it didn't come on at all.If someone is nice to you but rude to the waiter, they are not a nice person.0
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Lum wrote:Doing this will transfer a thin lump of pad material to the disc which will then grow over time as future braking attempts keep hitting the leading edge of this lump and transferring material. Eventually you'll be able to feel this as a juddering in the discs which will be diagnosed as warped discs and need a replacement.
That's a new one on me and sounds like nonsense. How does the brake material transfer? If it melted on, the pad wouldn't release with a noticeable crack/bang sound. And why doesn't it wear off immediately on the next brake application, if it's made of the same stuff as the brake pad? I've inspected hundreds of brakes and never heard of or seen anything like this.
And additionally some handbrakes actually operate on the rear caliper - the Vauxhall Astra is one. Therefore that brake is designed to be held on as you describe.
I've just searched the web and can't find anything on this. I know in the days of brake drums there was an issue with the resin in vrake shoes melting, but that was solved long ago.0 -
I've heard of the effect, but not the mechanism as Lum explains it. If you stop with smoking hot brakes, and then sit with your foot on the footbrake, it prevents the disc cooling evenly (as one part of the disc is now wrapped in a big insulating pad). Uneven cooling could certainly lead to a warped disc.0
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That's a new one on me and sounds like nonsense. How does the brake material transfer? If it melted on, the pad wouldn't release with a noticeable crack/bang sound. And why doesn't it wear off immediately on the next brake application, if it's made of the same stuff as the brake pad? I've inspected hundreds of brakes and never heard of or seen anything like this.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake#Excessive_lateral_run-outOften uneven pad transfer is confused for disc warping. In reality, the majority of brake discs which are diagnosed as "warped" are actually simply the product of uneven transfer of pad material. Uneven pad transfer will often lead to a thickness variation of the disc. When the thicker section of the disc passes between the pads, the pads will move apart and the brake pedal will raise slightly; this is pedal pulsation. The thickness variation can be felt by the driver when it is approximately 0.17 mm or greater (on automobile discs).
This type of thickness variation has many causes, but there are three primary mechanisms which contribute the most to the propagation of disc thickness variations connected to uneven pad transfer. The first is improper selection of brake pads for a given application. Pads which are effective at low temperatures, such as when braking for the first time in cold weather, often are made of materials which decompose unevenly at higher temperatures. This uneven decomposition results in uneven deposition of material onto the brake disc. Another cause of uneven material transfer is improper break in of a pad/disc combination. For proper break in, the disc surface should be refreshed (either by machining the contact surface or by replacing the disc as a whole) every time the pads are changed on a vehicle. Once this is done, the brakes are heavily applied multiple times in succession. This creates a smooth, even interface between the pad and the disc. When this is not done properly the brake pads will see an uneven distribution of stress and heat, resulting in an uneven, seemingly random, deposition of pad material. The third primary mechanism of uneven pad material transfer is known as "pad imprinting." This occurs when the brake pads are heated to the point that the material begins to break-down and transfer to the disc. In a properly broken in brake system (with properly selected pads), this transfer is natural and actually is a major contributor to the braking force generated by the brake pads. However, if the vehicle comes to a stop and the driver continues to apply the brakes, the pads will deposit a layer of material in the shape of the brake pad. This small thickness variation can begin the cycle of uneven pad transfer.Other than proper break in, as mentioned above, never leave your foot on the brake pedal after you have used the brakes hard. This is not usually a problem on public roads simply because, under normal conditions, the brakes have time to cool before you bring the car to a stop (unless, like me, you live at the bottom of a long steep hill). In any kind of racing, including autocross and "driving days" it is crucial. Regardless of friction material, clamping the pads to a hot stationary disc will result in material transfer and discernible "brake roughness". What is worse, the pad will leave the tell-tale imprint or outline on the disc and your sin will be visible to all and sundry.
In any case the front brakes do the majority of the work, and so are the most likely to get hot and cause this, so even if your handbrake is pulling on the main callipers, you're less likely to get this problem if you use the handbrake.
You can genuinely warp discs in this way, but that is comparatively rare and it is difficult to tell the difference, so most fast fit places will just diagnose it as warped and sell you new discs. A more specialist place might instead just resurface the disc, but that still isn't free and depending on the labour rates involved, new discs might be cheaper.0 -
Excellent info, thanks for posting. I was told about pad material transfer a while ago on another forum, and was advised to clean the brake discs with brake cleaner and wire wool every time the pads were changed. (A light skim on a machine would be even better, but that's a lot of extra trouble and expense.) It seems counter-intuitive: what could be cleaner than a metal disc that is constantly wiped by a hard pad? But it really does make a difference; brakes are like new again. This was in reference to motorcycle disc brakes, but I guess the principles apply to car systems too.If someone is nice to you but rude to the waiter, they are not a nice person.0
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