Upgrading shed project!
According to my research, a shed needs to be on a level with no sloping. Our shed is already on a concrete base but for some reason the shed is on a slope (apparently fitted 2.5 years ago by the previous owner)
Facing the shed:
Side of the shed:
Which is probably why the door isn't straight:
I was thinking of putting in a wedge of some sort like these but wonder if they would do more harm than good. What are your thoughts?
Speaking of doors.... I am also looking at organising and I liked the idea of putting garden tools on the door which I assume probably needs replacing the hinges, I think something like https://www.screwfix.com/p/black-powder-coated-light-duty-tee-hinges-305mm-2-pack/36203
Other than the slope, the shed seems to be in a good shape (no pun intended!) but I have access to the back of the shed (thanks to the storm, there's currently no fence!) so if it makes sense to level up, I guess now is a good time...
Comments
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Is it level on the base? & this is a case of the frame is just not straightLife in the slow lane0
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I think the concrete base itself isn't 100% level0
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You could get stronger hinges, but the weakest point will then be the frame they are screwed into.A door with any weight of tools on it will inevitably sag under the weight and annoy you every time you open it and get hit by a swinging garden fork!
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victor2 said:You could get stronger hinges, but the weakest point will then be the frame they are screwed into.A door with any weight of tools on it will inevitably sag under the weight and annoy you every time you open it and get hit by a swinging garden fork!0
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moneysaver1978 said:victor2 said:You could get stronger hinges, but the weakest point will then be the frame they are screwed into.A door with any weight of tools on it will inevitably sag under the weight and annoy you every time you open it and get hit by a swinging garden fork!
It's more the strength of the shed frame the door is fixed to, rather than the door itself.
I’m a Forum Ambassador and I support the Forum Team on the In My Home MoneySaving, Energy and Techie Stuff boards. If you need any help on these boards, do let me know. Please note that Ambassadors are not moderators. Any posts you spot in breach of the Forum Rules should be reported via the report button, or by emailing forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com.
All views are my own and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.
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moneysaver1978 said:victor2 said:You could get stronger hinges, but the weakest point will then be the frame they are screwed into.A door with any weight of tools on it will inevitably sag under the weight and annoy you every time you open it and get hit by a swinging garden fork!1
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victor2 said:moneysaver1978 said:victor2 said:You could get stronger hinges, but the weakest point will then be the frame they are screwed into.A door with any weight of tools on it will inevitably sag under the weight and annoy you every time you open it and get hit by a swinging garden fork!
It's more the strength of the shed frame the door is fixed to, rather than the door itself.0 -
I would suspect that the existing concrete base isn't level. The weight of the shed will then push the unsupported areas down. I have exactly that problem with my shed but not to anything like the same extent. The base was already there when our shed was erected. There had been a smaller shed on the large base previously and the problem wasn't obvious then.I'm not convinced that wedges would help as they would only lift the end of the timbers and could then allow the timber floor, assuming it has one, to sag.1
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TELLIT01 said:I would suspect that the existing concrete base isn't level. The weight of the shed will then push the unsupported areas down. I have exactly that problem with my shed but not to anything like the same extent. The base was already there when our shed was erected. There had been a smaller shed on the large base previously and the problem wasn't obvious then.I'm not convinced that wedges would help as they would only lift the end of the timbers and could then allow the timber floor, assuming it has one, to sag.0
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