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  • FIRST POST
    • Grouchy
    • By Grouchy 15th May 19, 4:46 PM
    • 365Posts
    • 512Thanks
    Grouchy
    Removing ceiling light
    • #1
    • 15th May 19, 4:46 PM
    Removing ceiling light 15th May 19 at 4:46 PM
    I have a ceiling light fixture in a hallway that I want to remove and effectively just do a small filler plaster job over the small hole in the ceiling so completely removed - the glass shade has been broken and is irreplaceable. It matches another in the hallway so no possibility of just putting another fixture. Anyway, for such a small job I'd rather not get an electrician.


    I've had a quick look and it seems a standard ceiling connection. All it seems I have to do is unscrew the current flush ceiling bulb fixture (it is aluminium I think) and then disconnect the wires which come through the ceiling. Then blank off the wires and shove them into the ceiling void. This is the tricky bit. I've looked online and it seems I need terminals for each of the two wires.



    Is this safely doable for the average handy homeowner? And what terminal things would be best?


    Thanks for any help.
Page 1
    • Le_Kirk
    • By Le_Kirk 15th May 19, 4:50 PM
    • 4,785 Posts
    • 4,257 Thanks
    Le_Kirk
    • #2
    • 15th May 19, 4:50 PM
    • #2
    • 15th May 19, 4:50 PM
    You cannot just put the cables into a terminal block as there may be linked neutrals and lives which, if disconnected, will prevent other lights on the same circuit working.
    • Ectophile
    • By Ectophile 15th May 19, 7:09 PM
    • 3,579 Posts
    • 2,287 Thanks
    Ectophile
    • #3
    • 15th May 19, 7:09 PM
    • #3
    • 15th May 19, 7:09 PM
    It's common for the live, neutral and earth wires to be looped from one light fitting to the next. So all the lights on one floor will be on one circuit. If you just disconnect all the wires, then any lights further down the cable run wouldn't work any more.


    If that is the case, you will need to use some form of terminals to link the incoming and outgoing wires.


    If the joint is going to be plastered over and hidden, then screw terminal blocks shouldn't be used. The screws can work loose over time, and it's impossible for anyone to find them again. Instead "maintenance free" terminals should be used. The best known brand of these are Wago terminals.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
    • Grouchy
    • By Grouchy 16th May 19, 4:39 PM
    • 365 Posts
    • 512 Thanks
    Grouchy
    • #4
    • 16th May 19, 4:39 PM
    • #4
    • 16th May 19, 4:39 PM
    Thanks Ectophile, your explanation is useful and I understand basically how things work. Not sure if I will wait until I have a few things electrical to call in an electrician to deal with this at the same time.


    Thanks
    • z1a
    • By z1a 16th May 19, 5:57 PM
    • 2,004 Posts
    • 2,054 Thanks
    z1a
    • #5
    • 16th May 19, 5:57 PM
    • #5
    • 16th May 19, 5:57 PM
    Why don't you just buy another matching pair?
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 16th May 19, 7:11 PM
    • 998 Posts
    • 388 Thanks
    Risteard
    • #6
    • 16th May 19, 7:11 PM
    • #6
    • 16th May 19, 7:11 PM
    I'm afraid it's not sensible to attempt this if you don't know what you are doing, which is clear from your posts. There are numerous other considerations which others have failed to mention, including the fact that connections must be enclosed and strain relief should also be provided.

    An Electrician is frankly the only sensible answer to your problem.
    • ed110220
    • By ed110220 17th May 19, 6:39 AM
    • 1,158 Posts
    • 619 Thanks
    ed110220
    • #7
    • 17th May 19, 6:39 AM
    • #7
    • 17th May 19, 6:39 AM
    I would check how many wires there are to the light fitting. Older systems usually used a different method in which there was only one cable to the light fitting and one to the switch, connected at a junction box, typically in the loft or above the ceiling. If that's the case (the fitting just has a live, neutral and earth) then they can simply be disconnected (appropriately and safely of course).
    • Jonesya
    • By Jonesya 17th May 19, 7:38 AM
    • 1,597 Posts
    • 975 Thanks
    Jonesya
    • #8
    • 17th May 19, 7:38 AM
    • #8
    • 17th May 19, 7:38 AM
    If you no longer want a light there, probably the easiest option is to leave the ceiling rose with the cable terminals on the ceiling, but disconnect and remove the pendant drop. The terminals remain accessible for maintenance, and it allows you or any future owner to easily fit a light there if you want in the future.

    To be safe, block the cable entry hole in the rose.
    • Dan-Dan
    • By Dan-Dan 17th May 19, 7:59 AM
    • 4,999 Posts
    • 4,365 Thanks
    Dan-Dan
    • #9
    • 17th May 19, 7:59 AM
    • #9
    • 17th May 19, 7:59 AM
    I'm afraid it's not sensible to attempt this if you don't know what you are doing, which is clear from your posts. There are numerous other considerations which others have failed to mention, including the fact that connections must be enclosed and strain relief should also be provided.

    An Electrician is frankly the only sensible answer to your problem.
    Originally posted by Risteard
    plus 100

    If you dont know what you are doing and you seem fuzzy at best, you can do a lot of harm `blanking off` cables and such like as some intsalls are a right hotchpotch created over years of different owners
    Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night.
    • Grouchy
    • By Grouchy 17th May 19, 5:42 PM
    • 365 Posts
    • 512 Thanks
    Grouchy
    Thanks for all input, I'll wait till I have a few electrical jobs that need doing and get an electrician in as I'd rather a proper job and not too confident myself with electrical stuff.


    Cheers
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