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  • FIRST POST
    • ginashamz
    • By ginashamz 6th Aug 18, 5:08 PM
    • 47Posts
    • 2Thanks
    ginashamz
    purchased another RX8
    • #1
    • 6th Aug 18, 5:08 PM
    purchased another RX8 6th Aug 18 at 5:08 PM
    Hi
    my car was written off and I have recently purchased a Mazda RX8 PZ. This is actually my second RX8 so I have decent experience on how to take care of the engine.

    when i got the car (private sale) i didn't get a compression test done but it seemed to drive fine. What i am concerned about is the rust on panels underneath the front wings and wheel arches. I guess there must be rust on the underside too.

    I have taken a picture of the rust on the front passenger side, underneath the front wing - see link below. It is the same on the driver side. Is it worth getting this repaired and then a professional underbody treatment with sealant? This will cost around 850 in total. The car is only worth about 1500.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UppQz6xscfLgG3BvqYTAyNyMbY1MV9VP/view?usp=sharing

    Or shall I just sand off the rust and re-spray myself?

    Last edited by ginashamz; 06-08-2018 at 5:09 PM. Reason: add link for picture
Page 2
    • Arklight
    • By Arklight 7th Aug 18, 6:40 PM
    • 1,403 Posts
    • 2,221 Thanks
    Arklight
    I had a small bit of bubbling under the back door of my Almera once. Not enough to break the paint.

    The garage saw it at MOT time and said it absolutely couldn't be left to get worse. They did some pretty hardcore welding and then guaranteed it as rust free. It wasn't especially cheap and that was a small patch compared to yours.

    I would worry that a car that's in that state hasn't been looked after at all. I think it probably is worse than it looks too, and it looks pretty bad.
    • Jackmydad
    • By Jackmydad 7th Aug 18, 6:49 PM
    • 3,463 Posts
    • 10,829 Thanks
    Jackmydad
    As it doesnt seem to be the O/Ps main car, i'd have the wings unbolted and see whats behind it, then make a decision from there and look the parts.
    Originally posted by motorguy
    I'd certainly want to do that, as you say, but I'd also want to get the car in the air somehow, if only on ramps, and have a good poke about underneath, and if possible a look in any hollow or double skinned sections.
    I don't know anything about those particular cars, but I've seen various types of cars that looked quite scruffy when first viewed that were basically sound, and cars that looked great that were as rotten as a pear. I did a fair bit of welding on old 60s and 70s cars in the bad old days. Modern cars seem to be better for resisting the rot in the first place in general, but once it's in. . .
    "Luck happens where hard work meets opportunity"
    • motorguy
    • By motorguy 7th Aug 18, 7:02 PM
    • 17,122 Posts
    • 10,255 Thanks
    motorguy
    I'd certainly want to do that, as you say, but I'd also want to get the car in the air somehow, if only on ramps, and have a good poke about underneath, and if possible a look in any hollow or double skinned sections.
    I don't know anything about those particular cars, but I've seen various types of cars that looked quite scruffy when first viewed that were basically sound, and cars that looked great that were as rotten as a pear. I did a fair bit of welding on old 60s and 70s cars in the bad old days. Modern cars seem to be better for resisting the rot in the first place in general, but once it's in. . .
    Originally posted by Jackmydad
    Agreed, wouldnt be hard to get it on to a lift and have a check over it.

    Likewise i think the O/P is looking to increase the longevity of the car for a year or two rather than go waist deep in a full on restoration.

    A check underneath and unbolt the wings would tell you enough i think, and would only cost a few pounds before making a commitment.
    "We have normality. I repeat, we have normality. Anything you still can't cope with is therefore your own problem."
    • Jackmydad
    • By Jackmydad 7th Aug 18, 7:10 PM
    • 3,463 Posts
    • 10,829 Thanks
    Jackmydad
    Agreed, wouldnt be hard to get it on to a lift and have a check over it.

    Likewise i think the O/P is looking to increase the longevity of the car for a year or two rather than go waist deep in a full on restoration.

    A check underneath and unbolt the wings would tell you enough i think, and would only cost a few pounds before making a commitment.
    Originally posted by motorguy
    Yes, I reckon that'd be money well spent.
    "Luck happens where hard work meets opportunity"
    • ginashamz
    • By ginashamz 7th Aug 18, 7:38 PM
    • 47 Posts
    • 2 Thanks
    ginashamz
    I'll book it in at my local body shop who I trust for an inspection and ask their recommendation for a cheap fix. Obviously any crucial bits like welding will need to be done first.
    • Nodding Donkey
    • By Nodding Donkey 8th Aug 18, 5:15 AM
    • 2,590 Posts
    • 2,190 Thanks
    Nodding Donkey
    Thanks for all the input. The car went through its MOT only in June by the previous owner and they only passed it when they replaced both real coils and stabiliser links at a cost of 500. There was also an advisory note stating 'rust on rear of car (boot floor/rear wheel arch) will need welding next year'.

    I got the car compression tested today and had it on a ramp for an inspection. The compression results were actually quite good and the mechanic was surprised to see such number (high 6s on both rotars). While the underside wasn't terrible for a 12 year old car, there were obvious signs of rust but nothing major to the point where the chassis will imminently break in half due to rust. The mechanic suggested to just remove any debris of rust and use some rust inhabitant to slow down the process. I have left this for now as I still want some more input on the best way to go forward.

    Here is a picture of the other side of the car - the lower part of the front wing.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-9WkeLjo7PxRmxpOEZlaEktSkhSY1c5MWs0YzRkYU9SNlJr/view?usp=sharing
    Originally posted by ginashamz

    The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.


    High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.
    • peter12345678910
    • By peter12345678910 8th Aug 18, 8:04 AM
    • 284 Posts
    • 62 Thanks
    peter12345678910
    The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.


    High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.
    Originally posted by Nodding Donkey
    I would not just check the suspension, it is also supposed to have better alloys and exhaust which may need expensive work. It may need a new paint job too after all the rust work or the other option of changing panels is done. So it may be cheap for a reason.

    Though I see where you are coming from as it is a hard to find classic sports car. I guess the Yaris GRMN will become like this car in 10 years which was tuned on a German racing track and some one will post similar concerns.
    When you look into an abyss, the abyss also looks into you.

    Friedrich Nietzsche
    • ginashamz
    • By ginashamz 8th Aug 18, 9:54 AM
    • 47 Posts
    • 2 Thanks
    ginashamz
    The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.


    High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.
    Originally posted by Nodding Donkey
    The car did not come with the suspension that was suppose to come with the PZ, it has the standard RX8 suspension. Only found this out when I had it compression tested. Everything else like the wheels, exhaust etc are all PZ and are in OK condition.

    I was thinking to pick up a set of used PZ suspension from Ebay for around 250 but will have to put this on hold until I found out the extent of the rust. Its a shame really because besides the rust everything else is fine in the car.
    • ginashamz
    • By ginashamz 8th Aug 18, 10:28 AM
    • 47 Posts
    • 2 Thanks
    ginashamz
    The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.


    High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.
    Originally posted by Nodding Donkey
    Test was normalised to 250RPM and was done when the engine was hot.
    • ginashamz
    • By ginashamz 8th Aug 18, 12:54 PM
    • 47 Posts
    • 2 Thanks
    ginashamz
    Hi went to a body shop today for a quote for the side sills and lower front wing and he said he could sand it down, apply fibre glass filler, sealant and spray/lacquer both sides for 350. He did kneel down and have a look under the sills and said it isn't that bad and the rust hasn't gone through the body.

    As for the rear, there is welding required and will need to remove the exhaust for access/ I still need to obtain a quote for this work. The body shop I went to today does not do welding.

    Does this all sound right?
    • peter12345678910
    • By peter12345678910 8th Aug 18, 1:06 PM
    • 284 Posts
    • 62 Thanks
    peter12345678910
    Hi went to a body shop today for a quote for the side sills and lower front wing and he said he could sand it down, apply fibre glass filler, sealant and spray/lacquer both sides for 350. He did kneel down and have a look under the sills and said it isn't that bad and the rust hasn't gone through the body.

    As for the rear, there is welding required and will need to remove the exhaust for access/ I still need to obtain a quote for this work. The body shop I went to today does not do welding.

    Does this all sound right?
    Originally posted by ginashamz
    I did notice that the jacking area had little rust it is more around the jacking points on the sill. So probably the sill is OK and can get be sanded down before it spreads further.
    When you look into an abyss, the abyss also looks into you.

    Friedrich Nietzsche
    • Nodding Donkey
    • By Nodding Donkey 8th Aug 18, 3:12 PM
    • 2,590 Posts
    • 2,190 Thanks
    Nodding Donkey
    The car did not come with the suspension that was suppose to come with the PZ, it has the standard RX8 suspension. Only found this out when I had it compression tested. Everything else like the wheels, exhaust etc are all PZ and are in OK condition.

    I was thinking to pick up a set of used PZ suspension from Ebay for around 250 but will have to put this on hold until I found out the extent of the rust. Its a shame really because besides the rust everything else is fine in the car.
    Originally posted by ginashamz

    Do yourself a favour and get the suspension from an Anniversary edition or an R3 (they are the same) and spares (springs etc) are easier to come by and are as good if not better than the PZ
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