The sewing thread

[Deleted User] · 16 July 2017 at 8:33AM

:wave: hello elf, welcome

I am wearing a top that I am about to withdraw from my wardrobe, so my new one can go in. Got garden work to do this morning, then will clean my machines and later quietly plan another pattern, which is not going to fit out of the box, most people seem to be doing FBAs on it but once done they are loving the pattern, which will eventually be the destination for my RK double gauze. It makes a tunic or a dress. Working out the alterations takes longer than I thought, except for a simple fix, like higher back. I haven`t used liesl previously, so am breaking new ground with fit, having learned my lesson ie I need to make sure I don`t make too big and will start with a copied 16

Got it via ebay and minerva
https://oliverands.com/shop/gallery-tunic-dress-sewing-pattern.html#tab-details

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/search/pins/?rs=ac&len=2&q=liesl%20gallery%20tunic&eq=liesl%20gallery&etslf=3380&term_meta[]=liesl%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined&term_meta[]=gallery%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined&term_meta[]=tunic%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined

I am liking the neck on this, the others were too low at first, not low but not snug enough to start ie they were airy

[Deleted User] · 16 July 2017 at 9:57AM

Just killing time before buying compost and have spread the gallery pattern out. Masses of pieces and very full instructions with SA that varies from place to place. It suggests a FBA fot over a B cup, no wonder there are so many doing that FBA. The upside is that there are full instructions in the pattern. I am toying with doing a 14 for the shoulder fit, then 16 further down, maybe grading to an 18 for the hem. Done the easy bit ie mentally, it has to be shortened about 3.5 ". Its not going to be easy and I will have to do a copy, maybe twice, at least for the top bits. I think I will end up with a forever pattern but have to do the groundwork

I have some older stash, just 2m and washed and its top notch quality ie looking like new, with drape and a little stretch. Its asking to be made up into something, could be that stylearc skirt that I have made once and love, allison, already lengthened
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sparrows+knit+fabric&client=firefox-b-ab&tbm=isch&imgil=YBCwaDj0lk5_wM%253A%253Bg6HNKxeMsibqIM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.pinterest.com%25252Fpin%25252F564216659539297760%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=YBCwaDj0lk5_wM%253A%252Cg6HNKxeMsibqIM%252C_&usg=__PtOIj13m0CHd_nRiAE80b49DDaU%3D&biw=1366&bih=635&ved=0ahUKEwiogvOlto3VAhVQblAKHYwqABIQyjcINQ&ei=JylrWejSNdDcwQKM1YCQAQ#imgrc=YBCwaDj0lk5_wM:

flissh · 16 July 2017 at 12:33PM

Like that tunic/dress Kittie. But what does FBA mean?
Ive hemmed my sundress, its a bit loose, (think maternity!!) but I live in a hot country at the mo so nice and cool.
Thinking of making some shorts next or the Merchant and Mills Camber dress. Got the pattern when I was in Rye a few weeks ago and was able to go in their shop there.

[Deleted User] · 16 July 2017 at 2:52PM

full bust adjustment for different cup sizes. The instructions in the pattern pack look easy, just need a french curve, ruler, patching and tape. I love MnM and also have camber, have made 3 trapeze and its a go to now that I have adjusted the shoulder and neck.

Blooming tired now, this allotment of mine is so pleasurable but draining at this time of year. I`ll look at the pattern when I can concentrate again

That gallery pattern would look very nice in all sorts of fabric and I am thinking also for winter, fine needlecord and warm tights. Just need to get it right first and do a muslin and read reviews and forum posts

Hot country flissh!! I wilt in the heat

PollyWollyDoodle · 16 July 2017 at 5:38PM

Oliver and S produced the free sun hat pattern that I posted about a few weeks ago, it may only have been a hat but the instructions were absolutely excellent so I hope it's the same for your pattern, Kittie - it looks lovely.

[Deleted User] · 16 July 2017 at 7:36PM

Thats nice to know Polly. I don`t think I have ever read such full and concise instructions. I am almost finished with the FBA, just need to slide the bottom bit in as it is now wider at the waist and then redraw. Having a needed break with a glass of lemonade. I am going to have to re-copy this adjusted copy as it is full of tape and patches. I found a super excellent youtube video on dart adjustments and am going to make some notes in my sewing book or I`ll forget how to do it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuaZZRiM-n4

much as I hate doing these adjustments, they certainly make a garment fit better. Btw, I held a good tunic against the pattern and am doing size 14. I definitely lost weight, doing all these jobs, sewing and eating vegetables as fast as I can

[Deleted User] · 16 July 2017 at 10:38PM

this adjustment malarky is one heck of a mathematical science. Now I know why my tops never fitted properly around the neck and shoulders. Looks as though I have been getting the wrong size patterns
http://curvysewingcollective.com/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizes-and-a-handy-reference/

I have spent an hour making notes and copying the sizing charts for different pattern companies and they are all different. Some based on a B cup and other D and bigger. I am learning on my feet. Seems that it is best to go by high bust and to do the FBA and I`ll then have to alter everything else further down. I have been lucky so far in that garments fit, eventually. I am going through my patterns one at a time when I have spare time, maybe in autumn and some will definitely have to go

you live and learn, oh well better than sitting back waiting to get old

[Deleted User] · 17 July 2017 at 7:35AM

I wasn`t going to buy any more patterns but vogue has/had a range based on D cup called custom fit and I know how quickly patterns can vanish. I just bought one via ebay and love the way it skims the tummy area, the flared one in the patterned print and the lovely flared hemline, which I know suits me. So I am adding to my pattern stash and being realistic.

https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9202

[Deleted User] · 17 July 2017 at 12:43PM

jondav I am definitely still learning. In the old days it was forward, back and zig zag if you had a `modern` machine. All this new stuff comes from american sowers and they are on top of the game over there

I made the other maddison up today, in the outback wife in multi blues, having woken up with an idea. The only problem with the other one was the slightly big neck. I basted the new fabric starting at 5/8 on each raglan from the neck area, quickly tapering to the 3/8 SA. Had to bast all the seams because the differences were slight and I had to be accurate. Result was perfection and that one was quickly made, mostly overlocked. A very nice top now hanging to air after steaming over a ham and a sleeve board. I couldn`t rest at that, so unpicked the neck band on the other, very aware that I had trimmed the inner seam and it was fraying like mad. Took in each raglan seam right at the top, just a tiny bit and re did the collar band and that one is now also perfection

I am now aiming at a mix n match set of clothes
https://www.sewhot.co.uk/product/essex-yarn-dyed-linen-nautical/
https://www.sewhot.co.uk/product/essex-yarn-dyed-linen-water-with-silver-metallic/
https://www.sewhot.co.uk/product/outback-wife-blue-mary/
https://www.sewhot.co.uk/product/essex-yarn-dyed-linen-pickle/

The pickle is a contrast but I will have enough of all of them to make maddison tops and A line pull on skirts

Help needed though, ideas of where to contrast on the actual garments

Re that FBA, it made a heck of a lot of sense and later, I will add a FBA to maddison, which is drafted a B and I need a D. I have already moved the dart down so it shouldn`t be hard. D=4" difference between high bust and full bust. B=2", so I have to allow for 2". There are 2 darts so each dart must be spread by 1"

Must go now, ordinary humdrum stuff to do

[Deleted User] · 17 July 2017 at 9:12PM

Phew!! we are still here, several threads have vanished

I got myself into a complete mess doing the FBA, trust me, the one time I didn`t make a copy because the paper was thick. I had already moved the dart down, then I did the FBA on top of that, needless to say the pattern became a mess of tape and patches and folds. Then I read on curvysewing that a FBA should be done first as it does lower the dart. Doh, good job this modern day tape is not as sticky as the old sellotape. I eventually got back to basics albeit very scruffy with masses of tape still. Copy made and FBA done and indeed the dart now points to the correct place. Very good tutorial on curvy sewing, I kept putting it on pause to do a bit more. Still learning

Before that I had picked lbs of blackcurrants, one at a time, sitting under a hat. That was quite nice, another world in fact

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The sewing thread

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