Air source heat pump costing loads in electricity.

13

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  • Thanks - I checked the setting and it’s set at 0. I could try -5, say. Are there any risks other than that it might not make the desired temperature?
  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,606 Forumite
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    not as far as I know
    Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers
  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
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    What is the size of the ashp? With approx 160 M2, I would expect the minimum to be around 11Kw output, but more like 14kw, depending on insulation level.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,606 Forumite
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    Mine is an 11kw LT Daikin Split installed in 2010 heating a 140sq.M detached bungalow.

    Decent loft insulation, cavity wall insulation which was fitted when it was built in 1986 and 1999 vintage double glazing. Overlay underfloor heating with programmable stats controlling each room.
    Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers
  • Our Daikin split low temp 8kw is heating 365 sq m, but it’s a certified Passive House with ufh running at 35 degrees. Still learning about it. Really keen Passivhaus people say you don’t need any form of active heating, but we weren’t going to take that risk on the basis that it’s better to find we don’t use it too much rather than wishing we’d installed it when we hadn’t!
  • Is anyone able to share a picture of their Samsung unit with all the details. I’ve just moved into a rental property and the landlord is convinced the system is functioning properly but we’re freezing now because last months bill bled us dry. We were told to leave the ASHP running, which we do for the downstairs underfloor heating (set to 21) but our radiators upstairs never feel hot. We “tried” for 3 weeks leaving them on constantly and the house became hot (radiators only warm) but we were hit with a hugeeeeee bill. So now we’ve turned them to twice daily but as they never get HOT(only warm) it never provides enough heat to even try heating upstairs??!! So it’s basically money down the drain! Any help will be amazing, I’ve no idea but I’m a paranoid mess checking my smart meter because we can’t afford another disaster of a bill. Many thanks all 🤞🙏🤞
  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,606 Forumite
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    edited 13 December 2019 at 10:43AM
    jojocrane wrote: »
    Is anyone able to share a picture of their Samsung unit with all the details. I’ve just moved into a rental property and the landlord is convinced the system is functioning properly but we’re freezing now because last months bill bled us dry. We were told to leave the ASHP running, which we do for the downstairs underfloor heating (set to 21) but our radiators upstairs never feel hot. We “tried” for 3 weeks leaving them on constantly and the house became hot (radiators only warm) but we were hit with a hugeeeeee bill. So now we’ve turned them to twice daily but as they never get HOT(only warm) it never provides enough heat to even try heating upstairs??!! So it’s basically money down the drain! Any help will be amazing, I’ve no idea but I’m a paranoid mess checking my smart meter because we can’t afford another disaster of a bill. Many thanks all 🤞🙏🤞

    You are not using the system correctly, radiators should be lukewarm and remain like that most of the time, they should not not hot and should be left on for much longer periods than just a couple of hours a day.

    You cannot use a heatpump like a conventional boiler because it will cost you a lot to run and you'll still be cold - the main thing to check is that your flow and hot water temperatures are not set so high that the boost/back-up heater operates as this will send your bills sky high. You really do need to learn how to use it properly and not keep turning it on and off like a conventional bolier

    If I shut my system off, it can take a couple of days to rewarm the house, so I just turn it down a couple of degrees overnight, rather than off.

    Air Source Heatpumps are much more sensitive to outside temperature changes than say a conventional boiler and people with them tend to focus on their consumption but you do need to be aware that you will use most of your energy in the winter (something like 70% in my case) so it will look high ath this time of the year. Make sure you are on a decent low cost tariff.
    Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers
  • Cardew
    Cardew Posts: 29,036 Forumite
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    edited 13 December 2019 at 1:53PM
    jojocrane wrote: »
    I’ve just moved into a rental property

    _
    _



    but we were hit with a hugeeeeee bill.


    How big is hugeeeeee?


    As you have just moved in, are you sure that the consumption is all yours? i.e from meter readings at the start of your tenancy to an actual reading?


    As said above, and by the owner, an ASHP must be left on 24/7, With ufh, correctly, at a low temperature setting, your upstairs radiators will be cool to touch, that's why they should be much larger than a property with conventional CH.
  • Andy_WSM
    Andy_WSM Posts: 2,217 Forumite
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    jojocrane wrote: »
    and the house became hot

    If the house did indeed become "hot" then there's part of your problem. As stated above, leave it on low continually. Use the radiator thermostats to stop rooms becoming "hot" and the heat pump won't need to do as much work and cost you as much to run.

    If the rooms upstairs have thermostatic radiator valves then set them at 3 or 4, not full on and leave the controls to do their job. Likewise when downstairs has reached 21C the controls will stop the floor needing heat and you will find the heat pump cycles on & off rather than runs continually.

    Mine is set to maintain 21/22C in the whole (detached bungalow) house and I don't spend more than a few £ a day on electricity and notably the heat pump only really runs for 10 mins at a time then a pause of at least as long if not longer.
  • Firstly thank you for all the replies!! I’m banging my head and hoping to get to the bottom of it all without hitting another bill. I’m also nervous to start switching the radiators on full time “incase” we get stung but guess I should bite the bullet.
    So I’ve just been billed for £366 in about 3 and half weeks worth of electric. Our meter went from 468 up to 2853 in 3 weeks!!! I’ve now got the smart meter up and running so I’m trying to monitor it all but it’s a minefield. The landlord hasn’t really explained( or knows fully) about the system or he does but he’s happy to pay £234 A MONTH and of course I’m not!
    Again if anyone with a Samsung could send me a screen shot of the numbers I can adjust on my digital thing on the cylinder I’d be really grateful or anyone who could message me directly and chat offline.
    But if not, should I be brave and switch it on 24/7 making sure all the radiators are turned down to 3/4??? Obviously the smart meter chews up electric the colder it gets outside, does that mean the radiators are going up and down themselves because there’s no thermostat controlling the upstairs, only downstairs which we’ve mastered!! Thank you once again for helping a damsel in distress, really appreciate it 😍
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