purchased another RX8
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I'd certainly want to do that, as you say, but I'd also want to get the car in the air somehow, if only on ramps, and have a good poke about underneath, and if possible a look in any hollow or double skinned sections.As it doesnt seem to be the O/Ps main car, i'd have the wings unbolted and see whats behind it, then make a decision from there and look the parts.
I don't know anything about those particular cars, but I've seen various types of cars that looked quite scruffy when first viewed that were basically sound, and cars that looked great that were as rotten as a pear. I did a fair bit of welding on old 60s and 70s cars in the bad old days. Modern cars seem to be better for resisting the rot in the first place in general, but once it's in. . .0 -
I'd certainly want to do that, as you say, but I'd also want to get the car in the air somehow, if only on ramps, and have a good poke about underneath, and if possible a look in any hollow or double skinned sections.
I don't know anything about those particular cars, but I've seen various types of cars that looked quite scruffy when first viewed that were basically sound, and cars that looked great that were as rotten as a pear. I did a fair bit of welding on old 60s and 70s cars in the bad old days. Modern cars seem to be better for resisting the rot in the first place in general, but once it's in. . .
Agreed, wouldnt be hard to get it on to a lift and have a check over it.
Likewise i think the O/P is looking to increase the longevity of the car for a year or two rather than go waist deep in a full on restoration.
A check underneath and unbolt the wings would tell you enough i think, and would only cost a few pounds before making a £££ commitment.0 -
Yes, I reckon that'd be money well spent.Agreed, wouldnt be hard to get it on to a lift and have a check over it.
Likewise i think the O/P is looking to increase the longevity of the car for a year or two rather than go waist deep in a full on restoration.
A check underneath and unbolt the wings would tell you enough i think, and would only cost a few pounds before making a £££ commitment.0 -
I'll book it in at my local body shop who I trust for an inspection and ask their recommendation for a cheap fix. Obviously any crucial bits like welding will need to be done first.0
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Thanks for all the input. The car went through its MOT only in June by the previous owner and they only passed it when they replaced both real coils and stabiliser links at a cost of £500. There was also an advisory note stating 'rust on rear of car (boot floor/rear wheel arch) will need welding next year'.
I got the car compression tested today and had it on a ramp for an inspection. The compression results were actually quite good and the mechanic was surprised to see such number (high 6s on both rotars). While the underside wasn't terrible for a 12 year old car, there were obvious signs of rust but nothing major to the point where the chassis will imminently break in half due to rust. The mechanic suggested to just remove any debris of rust and use some rust inhabitant to slow down the process. I have left this for now as I still want some more input on the best way to go forward.
Here is a picture of the other side of the car - the lower part of the front wing.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-9WkeLjo7PxRmxpOEZlaEktSkhSY1c5MWs0YzRkYU9SNlJr/view?usp=sharing
The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.
High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.0 -
Nodding_Donkey wrote: »The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.
High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.
I would not just check the suspension, it is also supposed to have better alloys and exhaust which may need expensive work. It may need a new paint job too after all the rust work or the other option of changing panels is done. So it may be cheap for a reason.
Though I see where you are coming from as it is a hard to find classic sports car. I guess the Yaris GRMN will become like this car in 10 years which was tuned on a German racing track and some one will post similar concerns.When you look into an abyss, the abyss also looks into you. Nietzsche
Please note that at no point during this work was the kettle ever put out of commission and no chavs were harmed during the making of this post.0 -
The car did not come with the suspension that was suppose to come with the PZ, it has the standard RX8 suspension. Only found this out when I had it compression tested. Everything else like the wheels, exhaust etc are all PZ and are in OK condition.Nodding_Donkey wrote: »The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.
High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.
I was thinking to pick up a set of used PZ suspension from Ebay for around £250 but will have to put this on hold until I found out the extent of the rust. Its a shame really because besides the rust everything else is fine in the car.0 -
Test was normalised to 250RPM and was done when the engine was hot.Nodding_Donkey wrote: »The suspension on a PZ was bespoke and springs are really hard to come by. Make sure that they haven't fitted standard RX8 springs and shocks.
High 6s on the compression test is reasonable (not outstanding) provided the test was done on a hot engine using a proper rotary compression tester, you should have 3 readings per rotor with the result normalised to 250 rpm.0 -
Hi went to a body shop today for a quote for the side sills and lower front wing and he said he could sand it down, apply fibre glass filler, sealant and spray/lacquer both sides for £350. He did kneel down and have a look under the sills and said it isn't that bad and the rust hasn't gone through the body.
As for the rear, there is welding required and will need to remove the exhaust for access/ I still need to obtain a quote for this work. The body shop I went to today does not do welding.
Does this all sound right?0 -
Hi went to a body shop today for a quote for the side sills and lower front wing and he said he could sand it down, apply fibre glass filler, sealant and spray/lacquer both sides for £350. He did kneel down and have a look under the sills and said it isn't that bad and the rust hasn't gone through the body.
As for the rear, there is welding required and will need to remove the exhaust for access/ I still need to obtain a quote for this work. The body shop I went to today does not do welding.
Does this all sound right?
I did notice that the jacking area had little rust it is more around the jacking points on the sill. So probably the sill is OK and can get be sanded down before it spreads further.When you look into an abyss, the abyss also looks into you. Nietzsche
Please note that at no point during this work was the kettle ever put out of commission and no chavs were harmed during the making of this post.0
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