Supply for dishwasher and washing machine from copper pipes?

Warren1989 wrote: »

They are on the same circuit but the electrician has checked my appliances and assured me there is enough something such that you would need to run everything, with all 4 hobs on for a week before it took too much power?

So hobs too from there :eek:

I would suspect the hob to be on its own circuit. However think there is a good chance that you could have two or more of your units on at once. OK some peoples ovens are on a separate circuit too, so for argument I will guess yours too? Leaving the dishwasher and washing machine.

if both the dishwasher and washing machine.have a standard 2000 watt element and are on at the same time, both doing a hot wash, that is 20 amps on that circuit

being a nit picker, on the current setup where the drainage pipe meets the wall by the sink, that L-bend I would make into a T-bend with a waste access port on one side and it will make drain maintenance far easier. If it expands, put in at least one access point, and possibly a second at the end which is out of view where it hits a down pipe

Could I raise another point here? Recently I've become aware that, over the years, the waste pipes in my house become really bunged up with a slimey gunge and the only way to fully remove this is by 'rodding' them out. Those caustic/foamy solutions you buy to clean drains are completely useless, in my experience.

I made up a couple of tools to do this, one using the sort of flexible waste cleaner cables you can buy and the other using cable pulling rods (also called cable access kits). For each I made up my own ends, incorporating pieces of sponge. I've used these now and they really do clear the pipes well and this will not need done now for another year or two.

The reason I'm saying this is that, to do this you need to be able to get the tools into the waste pipes and also be able to push them fully along the whole length. You have a really long waste pipe there and I'm wondering if it would be possible for you to build-in, before you put units in place, good access points into the pipes. Also, I see that right angle bends have been fitted rather than a more curved bend, which would allow a flexible rod to get around.

I wish I was at the stage you are at and could really think about how I could get physical rods up that pipe - from one or other end or both, to really get them cleaned out. Then I could build that into the design by fitting plastic bends with a sweep and bends that incorporate access points. Or maybe use compression jointed fittings rather than glued-in ones, so that I could dismantle parts to clean and to allow access further on.

If you don't do this, in about three years time you'll be throwing money down those drains using various liquid solutions in a futile effort to clean them.

Just a thought.

Gunge usually collects at bends. It's always handy to have access to any bends then they can be pulled apart & cleaned when necessary.

EachPenny wrote: »

The horrible gunge usually forms because the waste pipes have been fitted too 'flat', so the water doesn't drain away quickly enough (nor with enough energy) to keep them clean. A flat fall doesn't create the turbulent conditions which keeps the gungy stuff in suspension and washes away any gunge which has been deposited.

I noticed (but wasn't originally going to comment) that the OP's waste pipe has been installed with a rather generous fall... so gunge-wise they should be ok, but might find the pipes are a bit noisy.

Some of the grey gunge is caused by excess use of fabric conditioner in the washing machine, so if it is a problem in a waste/drain serving a WM then it might be worth checking the correct dosing of fabric conditioner is always being used (with the concentrated versions it is easy to over dose).

The other cause might be fat being put down the sink... this is a real no-no if your waste/drainage pipes don't have a good fall.

Your points about building in access facilities are still valid though, it never hurts to think of the future.

I've found that the gunge builds up even on vertical pipes - particularly when the pipe is outside. Also, I've found this in the bath waste pipe, so no fat or fabric conditioner.

My next plan is to redo the pipework under the bathroom sink and kitchen sink, so that I can more easily dismantle and rod it out.

I'm also planning to run a separate pipe and trap for the washing machine. The kitchen installers connected the sink and washing machine to the same trap, so the sink makes a real racket when the washing machine is draining. The fast flow of water pulls the water down from the trap and creates a loud glug glug noise. We had separate pipe work and traps before and it never made that racket.