Tap valve jamming

peter021072 · 15 February 2019 at 12:12PM

My hot water tap on the downstairs kitchen basin seems to jam when opening. It opens enough to get a trickle but no more. I've tried WD40 and light oil but the thread seems to be worn.

First I attempted to take it off to find exactly what type it is, however on turning off the isolating valve below the sink, water started spurting out, so I quickly turned it back. Perhaps, I could do this again quickly if I have the right valve to replace it, but how can I be sure? My other option is draining the hot water cistern if I can get in the attic and find the valve to prevent that filling up.

As far as I can tell there are two types, the compression and quarter turn, it's definitely the former. Of those I can see 18 and 20 teeth versions for the handle, I've counted twenty..

Of the part of the valve I can see the dimensions look correct for valves showing using a search on Amazon using the words

Tap Mechanism Standard Insert Body Tap Valve Gland 1/2" Bsp 20 Spline

(I can't post a link unfortunately)

but obviously I can't see the thread without removing the valve. How many types of valve are there could I be reasonably sure of getting the correct one?

There seem to plenty of similar valves with two sets of threads 1/2 bsp and a 37mm thread beneath the hexagonal part , but I can't see any 37 mm on mine just a round diameter.

jk0 · 15 February 2019 at 1:01PM

peter021072 wrote: »

My hot water tap on the downstairs kitchen basin seems to jam when opening. It opens enough to get a trickle but no more. I've tried WD40 and light oil but the thread seems to be worn.

First I attempted to take it off to find exactly what type it is, however on turning off the isolating valve below the sink, water started spurting out, so I quickly turned it back. Perhaps, I could do this again quickly if I have the right valve to replace it, but how can I be sure? My other option is draining the hot water cistern if I can get in the attic and find the valve to prevent that filling up.

As far as I can tell there are two types, the compression and quarter turn, it's definitely the former. Of those I can see 18 and 20 teeth versions for the handle, I've counted twenty..

Of the part of the valve I can see the dimensions look correct for valves showing using a search on Amazon using the words

Tap Mechanism Standard Insert Body Tap Valve Gland 1/2" Bsp 20 Spline

(I can't post a link unfortunately)

but obviously I can't see the thread without removing the valve. How many types of valve are there could I be reasonably sure of getting the correct one?

There seem to plenty of similar valves with two sets of threads 1/2 bsp and a 37mm thread beneath the hexagonal part , but I can't see any 37 mm on mine just a round diameter.

Go in the loft and tie a coat hanger/string round the ballcock, so tank can't refill. Then you can empty tank by running a cold tap connected to it. When tank is empty, hot will no longer work either.

Then you can replace that service valve, and take the tap head to B&Q.

Jackmydad · 15 February 2019 at 1:16PM

There might be (should be) a local isolator valve for each tap. Underneath the sink in the feed. Might be a slot to turn it off (1/4 turn usually)
Screwfix do tap revivers
https://!!!!!!/2tlqDoa

molerat · 15 February 2019 at 1:38PM

Jackmydad wrote: »

There might be (should be) a local isolator valve for each tap. Underneath the sink in the feed. Might be a slot to turn it off (1/4 turn usually)https://!!!!!!/2tlqDoa

peter021072 wrote: »

.......... however on turning off the isolating valve below the sink, water started spurting out, so I quickly turned it back.

........................ :cool:

peter021072 · 15 February 2019 at 3:18PM

Thanks for the replies.

I had an expedition to the loft, and tried to shift two possible valves which links to cistern but they wouldn't shift and was concerned about breaking a pipe or generating a leak again. That gave me the idea to check the tap valve would loosen or else it's pointless draining system as suggested above anyway. A damn Gorilla must have tightened it, I nearly fell over when it loosened! Then the tap spontaneously started working again. I've nipped up the valve less tightly and i can undo the handle as much as I practically need to, to get a decent flow. There's no leak from the valve even when it un-tightened so the washer must be still intact. I'll keep my eye on it though, don't want a flood!

Good job I cancelled the plumber who couldn't make it until Tuesday anyway, and told me there were many types of valve it could be!

Have you ever thought you'd had the same experience as in the past but can't quite place it? I used to work with gas cylinders and valves quite a lot, so perhaps I had an identical problem and solution then.

Jackmydad · 15 February 2019 at 4:07PM

molerat wrote: »

........................ :cool:

Must learn to read long posts properly. . .

southcoastrgi · 17 February 2019 at 6:26PM

I'm guessing it's not a 1/4 turn, once the water is off it's a 5 min job for a plumber, the part with the washer on has come out of the body too far & twisted slightly so it now won't go back into the body it just needs realigning & prob a new washer

Tap valve jamming

Comments

Categories

Get our FREE Weekly email full of deals & guides - and it’s spam-free