Official MSE Economy 7 Guide discussion

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  • Cardew
    Cardew Posts: 29,036 Forumite
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    Terry_D wrote: »
    Ahh, you just beat me to it! I was about to say exactly the same re E-On and since we changed recently to Scottish Power, they also except 2 electricity meter readings and I'm not on an Economy 7 tarriff with them either.

    I don't think that is correct for SP - so I would check.

    E-on will combine the two readings.
  • Kenman
    Kenman Posts: 16 Forumite
    Last year I tried to change supplier. I was on Economy 7 with my old supplier and had found the MSE Best Buy was with a new supplier and a standard (non-Economy 7) tariff.
    I have a digital meter that shows (in rotation) Day Usage, Night Usage, and Total Usage.
    I signed up with the new supplier, but was then told I couldn't have the tariff I wanted because I had an Economy 7 meter. Despite telling them my meter recorded total usage, and how difficult is it to add two numbers together anyway, they wouldn't have it and took no persuading to cancel the agreement.
    Who's right?
  • An interesting review of Economy 7. But, do not follow the rules listed blindly and think that all these need apply to get a saving with Economy 7.

    It is important to do a straight comparison of Economy 7 rates and the non-Economy 7 rates of your supplier using your annual consumption.

    We do not have storage heaters.
    We do not use an immersion heater for hot water.
    We use 28% of our electricity at the night rate.
    Main items used at night are a washing machine and dishwasher - one cycle each.

    And we still save on Economy 7.

    So, take care with this review and don't jump just because it suggests you need high consumption at night.
  • Cardew wrote: »
    You are correct. Scottish Power will not accept the two meter readings(peak and off-peak) to be added for a single rate tariff.
    I'm sorry but you are wrong. I enter my meter readings on the 1st of every month. The web page opens with 2 electricity boxes to fill and one gas box and showing my previous readings. I'm looking at it right now so I assure you this is correct!

    I moved over from E-On earlier in the year using the new MSE tool. And I got my £30 cash back paid into my account within a couple of months.
  • Cardew
    Cardew Posts: 29,036 Forumite
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    edited 18 September 2013 at 6:08PM
    Terry_D wrote: »
    I'm sorry but you are wrong. I enter my meter readings on the 1st of every month. The web page opens with 2 electricity boxes to fill and one gas box and showing my previous readings. I'm looking at it right now so I assure you this is correct!

    I moved over from E-On earlier in the year using the new MSE tool. And I got my £30 cash back paid into my account within a couple of months.

    I am not disputing that two electricity boxes open up - as they do with any Economy 7 meter.

    Indeed I am with Scottish Power having moved from E-on. However E-on would aggregate the two totals and treat as one, but SP specifically told me that they could not do that, exactly the same as they told ally18.(see post #18)

    Possibly they could have very recently changed their policy???

    Or

    As you have just moved, are you sure you are not on an Economy 7 tariff?
  • E7 is good but I have heard that E10 is better and moe convenient. For exampe you get off-peak electricity in the afternoon during which time you can put on a washing machine and storage & water heaters get a boost. Does anyone have any experience of E10 - particularly with regard to EDF and price promise/fixing schemes?
  • HappyMJ
    HappyMJ Posts: 21,115 Forumite
    Combo Breaker First Post
    John747 wrote: »
    E7 is good but I have heard that E10 is better and moe convenient. For exampe you get off-peak electricity in the afternoon during which time you can put on a washing machine and storage & water heaters get a boost. Does anyone have any experience of E10 - particularly with regard to EDF and price promise/fixing schemes?
    Yes the tariffs are much worse and most will not accept new customers. If accepted you will not be able to switch to a more competitive tariff as there is no competition. It would be cheaper in 99% of cases to be on a standard online managed tariff paid by direct debit. You may save if you have a ground source heat pump timed to only work during the E10 hours to heat underfloor heating and hot water with a gas heater or solid fuel stove for additional heat outside of those hours.
    :footie:
    :p Regular savers earn 6% interest (HSBC, First Direct, M&S) :p Loans cost 2.9% per year (Nationwide) = FREE money. :p
  • Cardew wrote: »
    I am not disputing that two electricity boxes open up - as they do with any Economy 7 meter.

    Indeed I am with Scottish Power having moved from E-on. However E-on would aggregate the two totals and treat as one, but SP specifically told me that they could not do that, exactly the same as they told ally18.(see post #18)

    Possibly they could have very recently changed their policy???

    Or

    As you have just moved, are you sure you are not on an Economy 7 tariff?
    We changed over in April and we are on Online Fixed Price Energy September 2014 tariff
  • The amount of energy put into a storage heater is controlled by a thermostat which measures the temperature of the bricks in the heater. This is usually marked 1 - 7. If you always set at least one heater to the maximum this tip will be irrelevant as it will need the full 7 hours to reach its set temperature. However, if you set all of them to anything less there are savings to be made. Consider a heater set to 4, for example. It will reach its set temperature after about 4 hours, i.e. at 04:00, and will then be giving out heat at its maximum rate through until 07:00, maintaining the set temperature by switching on again from time to time. All this topping up is wasted electricity. If, however, you fit an 'on-delay timer' into the timing line from your meter, the start of the 4 hour heating period can be delayed by 3 hours (7 - 4) so it runs from 03:00 to 07:00, meaning that the maximum temperature is reached only shortly before the cheap period ends. As a result, less heat is wasted during the wee small hours. If you want to set different energy inputs on several heaters then the timer must be used to set the time for the one having the highest energy input. The others will still get more than they need but not as much as when simply using the meter clock. If you understand my simple reference to an 'on-delay timer' you can probably do it yourself; if not, you need an electrician.
  • HappyMJ
    HappyMJ Posts: 21,115 Forumite
    Combo Breaker First Post
    MalcBridge wrote: »
    The amount of energy put into a storage heater is controlled by a thermostat which measures the temperature of the bricks in the heater. This is usually marked 1 - 7. If you always set at least one heater to the maximum this tip will be irrelevant as it will need the full 7 hours to reach its set temperature. However, if you set all of them to anything less there are savings to be made. Consider a heater set to 4, for example. It will reach its set temperature after about 4 hours, i.e. at 04:00, and will then be giving out heat at its maximum rate through until 07:00, maintaining the set temperature by switching on again from time to time. All this topping up is wasted electricity. If, however, you fit an 'on-delay timer' into the timing line from your meter, the start of the 4 hour heating period can be delayed by 3 hours (7 - 4) so it runs from 03:00 to 07:00, meaning that the maximum temperature is reached only shortly before the cheap period ends. As a result, less heat is wasted during the wee small hours. If you want to set different energy inputs on several heaters then the timer must be used to set the time for the one having the highest energy input. The others will still get more than they need but not as much as when simply using the meter clock. If you understand my simple reference to an 'on-delay timer' you can probably do it yourself; if not, you need an electrician.
    It doesn't cost much to top up the heat in a storage heater with the output damper closed. You would only be saving pennies per night. The timer would cost a lot more and you will not be able to recover the costs in any reasonable length of time. I'd just set it to maximum and leave the output damper closed. Any heat not used by the end of the next night will still be in the heater and it will cost less to top up the heater the next night. If the heater has only been half topped up with heat and runs out of heat during the evening it will cost more turning the boost function on during peak hours so in my opinion it's cheaper just having the storage heater full of cheap heat and never using the boost function.
    :footie:
    :p Regular savers earn 6% interest (HSBC, First Direct, M&S) :p Loans cost 2.9% per year (Nationwide) = FREE money. :p
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