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  • FIRST POST
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 6th Jan 11, 7:18 PM
    • 1,357Posts
    • 748Thanks
    lovesgshp
    Ground Source Heat Pumps
    • #1
    • 6th Jan 11, 7:18 PM
    Ground Source Heat Pumps 6th Jan 11 at 7:18 PM
    If anyone wants info on these, then please let me know, as have had one for over 5 years.
Page 56
    • JHen
    • By JHen 5th Jul 19, 12:58 PM
    • 40 Posts
    • 4 Thanks
    JHen
    Banging expansion tank
    Hi! I'm sorry if this is not GSHP related but the cupboard that has my GSHP there are 2x expansion tank so I've assumed they are part of the GSHP system. One is red with a pressure indicator (currently 1bar) and a one is white (no pressure valve). The white one is is connected to a small blue "RWC 6 Bar" valve. Every time we use the cold water, especially the washing machine, dishwasher and sink taps the white expansion tank make a banging noise. I mentioned to to my plumber and he said I need to get the GSHP engineer to check this out as the system us pressurised and the Heatpump can "explode" if not maintained correctly.
    1/ I was not aware the GSHP was pressurised and "dangerous" like a boiler? Is he correct?
    2/ Do I need to have a GSHP engineer look and the expansion tank when I next get it serviced by AltoEnergy ?

    Thanks in advance.
    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 5th Jul 19, 4:15 PM
    • 149 Posts
    • 127 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    Hiya,
    Red one, I would guess is the expansion tank for the central heating and white one is the expansion tank for the domestic hot water. The valve on the DHW one is a pressure relief valve so it'll release water to lower the pressure if it gets too high (shouldn't happen in normal operation).

    1. No, a GSHP is not "pressurised" as such. Your plumber is showing his ignorance. Yes, there is some pressure in the central heating, but only 1-1.5 bar when cold, same as if you had a normal gas boiler.

    2. The expansion tank is not part of the GSHP as such, so any plumber who had seen a hot water tank before, could replace it. I replaced mine myself as the diaphragm had perished and it was cheaper and a hell of a lot easier to replace than repair, and I'm not a plumber by any means.
    • JHen
    • By JHen 5th Jul 19, 4:28 PM
    • 40 Posts
    • 4 Thanks
    JHen
    Thanks for the prompt reply - as always.
    So could a perished diaphragm cause the banging noise I am hearing ?
    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 5th Jul 19, 4:40 PM
    • 149 Posts
    • 127 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    Thanks for the prompt reply - as always.
    So could a perished diaphragm cause the banging noise I am hearing ?
    Originally posted by JHen
    Hi, it's possible, but I'd have thought it would happen when using the hot tap, not the cold, which might mean it's a cold water feed expansion vessel. It may just need re-pressurising (there's a car tyre type valve on the top). If it is on the cold feed I think it needs to be set according to the pressure expected by the dhw tank, but I'm out of my depth on that to be honest. Either way any plumber who can work on a system that has a dhw tank would be able to sort it out. A new tank would only be 40 quid or so, if it does need one.
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 5th Jul 19, 4:47 PM
    • 1,357 Posts
    • 748 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    The red one should have no pressure, as just a expansion tank. Tap it to see if it is empty, as the diaphragm can fail. If it sounds hollow the ok.
    The white tank. Is this on the line from the ground loops, as that should have little influence.
    Have you checked the DHW tank for air, as this could be the problem.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 5th Jul 19, 4:59 PM
    • 1,357 Posts
    • 748 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    Will you just refresh my memory on the system, C series or E with water tank.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 6th Jul 19, 8:31 AM
    • 1,357 Posts
    • 748 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    Normal guidline pressures:
    4 bar cold water input into system.
    1.5 to heating system.
    0.5 to 1.00 ground loop. ( it can be 1.00 and drop to 0.5 on operation)
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • JHen
    • By JHen 6th Jul 19, 11:57 AM
    • 40 Posts
    • 4 Thanks
    JHen
    Its an IVT HT Plus C7M. The white tank does have a tyre valve on the top (under a black cap). When I tap the red tank it sounds solid, where the white one does not.
    "Have you checked the DHW tank for air". How do I do this? Is the tank part of the heatpump ?
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 6th Jul 19, 2:28 PM
    • 1,357 Posts
    • 748 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    Take the front cover off the pump. Inside you will see the dhw tank. At the top of that there will be a small brass knurled bleed valve. Open it slowly to release any air and wait until you just get a water flow. Water could be hot!!!!
    Red tank sounds as if it is full of water.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • JHen
    • By JHen 21st Aug 19, 7:45 PM
    • 40 Posts
    • 4 Thanks
    JHen
    Take the front cover off the pump. Inside you will see the dhw tank. At the top of that there will be a small brass knurled bleed valve. Open it slowly to release any air and wait until you just get a water flow. Water could be hot!!!!
    Red tank sounds as if it is full of water.
    Originally posted by lovesgshp
    So I had the GSHP serviced on Friday and engineer checked the cold water vessel and said it was fine, he even removed and re-pressurised it but the banging is still there. Most cold taps/dw/mw cause the bang. It's not really loud but enough for me to hear when I'm in the room where the GSHP is or the room above. The engineer said it could be the cold water inlet valve but he was not able to replace he didn't have my old style one in his van. Again, I appreciate this is not a GSHP related issue.
    PS The reports stated no air was found.
    Last edited by JHen; 21-08-2019 at 7:48 PM.
    • alastaid
    • By alastaid 7th Sep 19, 9:53 PM
    • 5 Posts
    • 1 Thanks
    alastaid
    Hi, i have an IVT GreenLine E11 installed in 2006 that has hummed away perfectly, however I now am getting HVT delta issues, and after reading this long thread the three way valve has gone, it wont activate even using the installer menu, just does nothing. It was installed with the MUT MR SPST CR M3 valve (also says ART 7.013.00570 on it), I think I have found a company locally to me that has the LK valve P/N 8733701136 (I hope this is the right one!) it looks like the electrical connector is the same for both valves, does anyone know if I can just replace with the LK valve and just plug the connector in without having to change anything? Thanks in advance.
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 8th Sep 19, 9:40 AM
    • 1,357 Posts
    • 748 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    replacement 3 way valve
    Welcome to the forum.
    The LK valve should be a straight replacement, approx 30 mins to change.
    Electrical connector should be no problem.


    HTH
    Last edited by lovesgshp; 08-09-2019 at 9:42 AM.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • alastaid
    • By alastaid 8th Sep 19, 10:42 AM
    • 5 Posts
    • 1 Thanks
    alastaid
    lovesgshp, thanks so much, fingers crossed for tomorrow then! :-)
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