Advice on fitting electric underfloor heating
Comments
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I think it also depends on how you personally feel the cold. If, like me, you suffer from cold feet then underfloor heating is bliss.0
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And if you have warm feet (like me) it is a total nightmare. When I visit my parents house (they have underfloor heating) I have to shuffle my way around the outside edges of the rooms! :rotfl:I think it also depends on how you personally feel the cold. If, like me, you suffer from cold feet then underfloor heating is bliss.0 -
If you are in a ground floor flat do you have any outside space to place an oil or gas tank? Ideally a small gas fired boiler running two rads and a towel rail/rad looks like it would suit. It should also be reasonably easy to give you instant hot water.Norn Iron Club member No 3530
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If you are in a ground floor flat do you have any outside space to place an oil or gas tank? Ideally a small gas fired boiler running two rads and a towel rail/rad looks like it would suit. It should also be reasonably easy to give you instant hot water.
Unfortunately not. It's a block so all outside space is communal0 -
Storage heaters get a bad rap because they are misunderstood. A lot of people don't understand how they work, and don't take the time. Luckily, improvements in design mean that modern storage heaters have more user friendly controls.
Well if your heating requirements are low, then convectors can be a good choice.
Generally, convection heaters are much cheaper up-front than underfloor heating, and you don't have to worry so much about the floor insulation.
I only asked because most all-electric properties have E7 hot water because it is easily the most economic way to do hot water in such properties. If you have E7 hot water then your heating should be E7 too, and that rules out a lot of heating options.
Hmm... If you are using direct electric then that could be pretty costly, and if E7 then your heating will be costly.
It's obviously your place, your decision, and I can only offer advice, but it needs to be thought about. All E7 (heating/hot water) is pretty much always the cheapest to run, but can be a little costly to install. All direct electric can be suitable if you have low energy requirements, and it has the bonus of a (usually) low install costs. A mix of E7 and direct electric is usually the worst of all scenarios, with a high running cost and high install cost.
Fair enough, thank you for the advice. I've only been in the flat for a few weeks, I haven't received the letter for the electricity so don't actually know what tariff the flat is on.
Currently the flat is bare and has no heating of any kind. What would be the most efficient (for running) heating and hot water method for either situation - with E7 and without?0 -
OK.What would be the most efficient (for running) heating and hot water method for either situation - with E7 and without?
E7
1. [highest upfront cost/lower running cost] Newest design night storage heaters (such as Dimplex Quantum) combined with an Part L insulated E7 water tank. Large heat storage capacity heaters with an electronic heat release system so the heat is programmable. Plus a large amount of hot water available all day which is heated overnight. Used effectively, a rival to gas central heating in terms of cost. Costs can be reduced further by using high power appliances in the off-peak period where possible.
2. [high upfront cost/lower running cost] Basic automatic charge control night storage heater (or "DUO" with backup convector built in) combined with an Part L insulated E7 water tank. Large heat storage capacity heaters providing all-day background heat and a simple boost control for colder evenings. Plus a large amount of hot water available all day which is heated overnight. Similar costs to above, but with reduced control over when the heat is released. Costs can be reduced further by using high power appliances in the off-peak period where possible.
3. [low upfront cost/ultra high running cost] Low cost wall mounted convector/oil filled radiators with thermostat and timers built in, combined with an Part L insulated E7 water tank. On demand heat at any time with complete flexibility. Plus large amount of hot water available all day which is heated overnight. Very flexible system, but at very high running cost for heat. Direct heat is not a sensible choice with an E7 tariff
Flat Rate
1. [low upfront cost/high running cost] Low cost wall mounted convector/oil filled radiators with thermostat and timers built in, combined with an Part L insulated water tank on a timer. On demand heat at any time with complete flexibility. Plus hot water available at all times. Very flexible system, but at high running cost. Costs are not as high as direct heaters on E7 due to a lower tariff rate for daytime use, and can be kept lower down if the space is very well insulated, small, and you are out most of the day.
2. [high upfront cost/high running cost] Underfloor electric heating combined with an Part L insulated water tank on a timer. On demand heat at any time with complete flexibility. Plus hot water available at all times. Very flexible system, as above but with very high installation costs. Costs can be kept lower down if the space is very well insulated, small, and you are out most of the day.
Note that not heating for large portions of the day can lead to problems with damp and mould growth.0 -
OK.
E7
1. [highest upfront cost/lower running cost] Newest design night storage heaters (such as Dimplex Quantum) combined with an Part L insulated E7 water tank. Large heat storage capacity heaters with an electronic heat release system so the heat is programmable. Plus a large amount of hot water available all day which is heated overnight. Used effectively, a rival to gas central heating in terms of cost. Costs can be reduced further by using high power appliances in the off-peak period where possible.
2. [high upfront cost/lower running cost] Basic automatic charge control night storage heater (or "DUO" with backup convector built in) combined with an Part L insulated E7 water tank. Large heat storage capacity heaters providing all-day background heat and a simple boost control for colder evenings. Plus a large amount of hot water available all day which is heated overnight. Similar costs to above, but with reduced control over when the heat is released. Costs can be reduced further by using high power appliances in the off-peak period where possible.
3. [low upfront cost/ultra high running cost] Low cost wall mounted convector/oil filled radiators with thermostat and timers built in, combined with an Part L insulated E7 water tank. On demand heat at any time with complete flexibility. Plus large amount of hot water available all day which is heated overnight. Very flexible system, but at very high running cost for heat. Direct heat is not a sensible choice with an E7 tariff
Flat Rate
1. [low upfront cost/high running cost] Low cost wall mounted convector/oil filled radiators with thermostat and timers built in, combined with an Part L insulated water tank on a timer. On demand heat at any time with complete flexibility. Plus hot water available at all times. Very flexible system, but at high running cost. Costs are not as high as direct heaters on E7 due to a lower tariff rate for daytime use, and can be kept lower down if the space is very well insulated, small, and you are out most of the day.
2. [high upfront cost/high running cost] Underfloor electric heating combined with an Part L insulated water tank on a timer. On demand heat at any time with complete flexibility. Plus hot water available at all times. Very flexible system, as above but with very high installation costs. Costs can be kept lower down if the space is very well insulated, small, and you are out most of the day.
Note that not heating for large portions of the day can lead to problems with damp and mould growth.
Thanks for all the info! very very helpful.
So I have now found out that it is standard rate electricity. I would hope the running cost wouldn't be too high given im usually out of the house on a weekday from 8am till 10pm, and it is well insulated.
I was thinking about a combo of the options you gave - underfloor heating only in the bedroom and bathroom (green and blue on the picture) which ends up only being around 4m2 of ufloor heating. Then in the kitchen/ lounge one convector radiator near the door. Would that be adequate for heating?
As for getting the hot water, what should i be looking at installing? Just want an idea of what i will need install before i talk to the plumber.0 -
If you are desperate for underfloor then sure. My point was that the cost is often way over the top for something that cheap convectors could achieve. It was worth thinking about in case you thought underfloor offered some kind of advantage. As direct electric heating is 100% efficient, it doesn't matter if you spend £4k on underfloor, or £30 on a convector from Lidl, you'll still get the same amount of heat.I was thinking about a combo of the options you gave - underfloor heating only in the bedroom and bathroom (green and blue on the picture) which ends up only being around 4m2 of ufloor heating.
Not possible for me to say. You need to work out the heat requirements for the space. There are calculators online that will give you a good estimate based on size of area/wall type/no. of windows etc. Use one of those to see how much heat you need, then you can select a heater(s) based on that. You may well find you need more than one.Then in the kitchen/ lounge one convector radiator near the door. Would that be adequate for heating?
Water is tricky on single rate. If you use a lot (got a bath?) then a big well insulated tank with an immersion heater on a timer (set a time likely to be before you need the water) is probably your best bet.As for getting the hot water, what should i be looking at installing? Just want an idea of what i will need install before i talk to the plumber.
Otherwise, if you are only using a little (washing your hands or doing the dishes) then where I work we have a little unit that holds like 4-6 litres and sits in a cupboard. It can heat that water pretty fast and because it only stores a little it costs little to run.0 -
We have electric UFH from Devi in our well-insulated 5m2 bathroom under ceramic tile and I wouldn't rely on it for heating exclusively. It's lovely and warm in the mornings (+evenings in winter), and I contemplated having nothing else to heat the room, but in the end added a large heated towel rail connected to our gas CH and very glad we did - the output just isn't enough from the UFH alone.0
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If you are desperate for underfloor then sure. My point was that the cost is often way over the top for something that cheap convectors could achieve. It was worth thinking about in case you thought underfloor offered some kind of advantage. As direct electric heating is 100% efficient, it doesn't matter if you spend £4k on underfloor, or £30 on a convector from Lidl, you'll still get the same amount of heat.
Not possible for me to say. You need to work out the heat requirements for the space. There are calculators online that will give you a good estimate based on size of area/wall type/no. of windows etc. Use one of those to see how much heat you need, then you can select a heater(s) based on that. You may well find you need more than one.
Water is tricky on single rate. If you use a lot (got a bath?) then a big well insulated tank with an immersion heater on a timer (set a time likely to be before you need the water) is probably your best bet.
Otherwise, if you are only using a little (washing your hands or doing the dishes) then where I work we have a little unit that holds like 4-6 litres and sits in a cupboard. It can heat that water pretty fast and because it only stores a little it costs little to run.
I'm not particularly desperate for underfloor heating, however all the floor is up so theres an opportunity to put it in now. I would only need to pay parts as I will lay the mats myself, and the electrician will wire it up to the mains for free (as he is doing a lot of other work). It then backs out to costing me about £500 all in for ufloor heating for the space needed, which judging by the prices i've seen won't be too much different to 3 or 4 nice looking convection heaters. So if they heat the same for the same price and installation price is negligible, I may as well just get it all down while im doing the floors.
As for water, I wouldn't want individual heaters as it would mean an electric shower as well which dont look good to me and dont have a very good flow rate. as for cylinders, i've tried researching it but i'm getting very confused. Do i need a vented or unvented cylinder or just a regular tank? and what size? I just don't want to get mugged off when i speak to a plumber. It will be for 2 sinks and a shower.0
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