Frozen condensation pipe, manual removal?

Kesteral · 2 March 2018 at 1:05AM

Hi.

I have a frozen condensation pipe due the cold weather (I have a logic combi boiler)

Unfortunately because the boiler is very high I can't get to the condensation pipe outside to thaw it. A neighbour told me they were advised by an engineer to pull out the condensation pipe from the boiler as a short term measure, then to restart the boiler.

So I tried it and it worked. I reconnected the condensation pipe back into the boiler and it's been working since. Actually the engineers I rang said they would do something similar but actually cut the pipes.

I just wanted to check whether what I've done is safe? There's no risk of gas leak is there? Otherwise it just seems like I've saved myself some money by doing it myself instead of getting an engineer to do the same thing

silvercar · 2 March 2018 at 10:05AM

Sounds OK, though you should have used a bucket or something to catch the condensate as it came out of the boiler.

If it now all works it suggests that the pipe has defrosted outside.

calleyw · 2 March 2018 at 10:54AM

I have the same issue. But wont do it because I am too scared I would dislodge something and !!!!!! the whole thing.

So sat here in the cold

Yours

Calley x

blackshirtuk · 3 March 2018 at 12:38AM

You will have released the blockage in the boiler but if the condensate pipe is still frozen it will accumalate again and stop the boiler firing.

I called a plumber and he just cut the condensate pipe outside about a foot down from where it came out of the wall. He said just leave like that for a days during the cold spell then when it warms up he will replace the 22mm pipe with a 32mm pipe with lagging so it won't happen again

Norman_Castle · 3 March 2018 at 10:37AM

How difficult would it be to fit an internal drain tap to the condensate pipe?

malky39 · 3 March 2018 at 1:54PM

No risk of a gas leak, aslong as you only touch the condensate, Disconnect it at the boiler and stick a bucket underneath to catch the condensate then when the weather gets better reconnect it. You could also pour warm water down the disconnected condensate to ensure it is fully clear

mchale · 3 March 2018 at 2:14PM

calleyw wrote: »

I have the same issue. But wont do it because I am too scared I would dislodge something and !!!!!! the whole thing.

So sat here in the cold

Yours

Calley x

Can you get to pipe, if so a kettle of boiling water poured over it shud melt ice blockage.

calleyw · 3 March 2018 at 2:49PM

mchale wrote: »

Can you get to pipe, if so a kettle of boiling water poured over it shud melt ice blockage.

I fixed it in the end thanks.

But the majority of the pipe work is inside the front porch and most of it is lagged. And the inch or two outside that goes in to the down pipe is also lagged.

So I poured some hot water over the lagged part that's outside and then put an electric heater in the porch. After an hour managed to restart the boiler and it has been fine ever since.

And now the temp is rising as the snow has gone. When a new boiler is put in, in the next couple of years bigger pipe and more of an angle.

Yours

Calley x

bris · 3 March 2018 at 4:55PM

Norman_Castle wrote: »

How difficult would it be to fit an internal drain tap to the condensate pipe?

No competent installer would fit the condensate outside unless it was absolutely necessary.

It's frowned on to disconnect the condensate pipe from the boiler as carbon monoxide can travel down this path, that's why a gas safe registered engineer will never recommend this method.

When going outside I always up the pipe to 40mm and fit flexible pipe inside that too so the flexi pipe takes the condensate and the 40mm pipe creates a barrier to it, so it needs extreme temps to freeze it.

P.s never use boiling water, hot water is all you need, giving it a few taps along the way to dislodge the ice.

telemarks · 3 March 2018 at 5:22PM

Our combi condense pipe froze up. So I took the hacksaw to it inside, and popped a bucket underneath for now

Looking at it, the pipe drops down from the boiler, then almost horizontally for 1/2 a metre inside, before going another 1/2 meter horizontally through the thick old outside wall. It then does a short horizontal right angle into a pipe above a drain.

Thinking about it, would it be better to have a bit of a slope on this pipe? and then vent downwards? Obviously I'll insulate as much as I can when re-plumbing, but would more slope help prevent freezing? Can I use 15mm push fittings? so I can easily dismantle if it happens again? (current was solvent weld 15mm)

As a PS, I did enjoy the One Show last night. My wife had issued dire warnings not to, so as soon as took out the hacksaw and applied to the pipe, but it was lovely to show her exactly the same hacksaw and trick been used on the One Show.

blackshirtuk · 5 March 2018 at 6:37PM

telemarks wrote: »

Can I use 15mm push fittings? so I can easily dismantle if it happens again? (current was solvent weld 15mm)

Are you sure you don't mean 22mm. Most condensate discharge pipes used to be 21.5 mm solvent weld pipes. I believe the requirement for new installations is 32mm. The bigger the pipe the less likely to freeze solid.

I am by no means an expert, but would think the bigger the fall the better, as you are trying to keep the condensate moving so that it doesn't freeze.

Frozen condensation pipe, manual removal?

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