Energy myth-busting: Is it cheaper to have heating on all day?

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  • This could be updated to include advice for people who have solar PV or air source heat pumps ie cheap renewable energy.
    For example, we have solar PV and a diverter which when we aren't using the power generated, sends it to the immersion heater to heat our domestic hot water. In 5 years we have only had to over-ride it once (when it rained for 4 days straight). We rely on this from Spring to Autumn. In the winter we have a wood burner which heats the domestic hot water.
    We also have a wood chip boiler, which though expensive to install is earning RHI, and the fuel is not particularly expensive.
    With a heat pump, your heating (typically under-floor) is at a lower temperature so it needs to be in conjunction with high grade insulation. It also will take longer to heat the space to the temperature required, so should be timed to come on sooner than you think. Depending what you read, it may well be better to leave it on all the time, at least in terms of energy efficiency.
    Re electric heaters, my pet electrician says that only electric heaters are 100% efficient ie all the power used is converted to heat. But it's true that they are expensive to run. You need to know both the cost and the efficiency to work out which form of heating is best.
  • Bricks
    Bricks Posts: 135 Forumite
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    sue1201 wrote: »
    Re electric heaters, my pet electrician says that only electric heaters are 100% efficient ie all the power used is converted to heat.

    In terms of the power coming into your home maybe. But that electricity will have been generated in a power station that achieves nowhere near 100% efficiency, and is likely to have been generated from fossil fuels.
  • I can't always tell what the settings are so I got the service engineer to turn up the one in my study where I spend most time, and turn the one in the hall by the main thermostat well down. What's the point of the Hall being warm because I have my outdoor clothes on in there either going out or coming in. Passing through to the bathroom in the middle of the night is transitory so doesn't count.

    The huge myth of turning off chargers, has been put over mostly by fossil fuel advocates. The amount of charge drawn by a mobile phone when fully charged is small, and when it isn't plugged in to the charger is minimal. The danger of the charger overheating and causing a fire might be worth thinking of.

    Proper insulation is the elephant in the room and accounts for much greater savings. But saving money is only part of the equation. As things are, I sit here for hours on end growing slowly colder in the interest of saving money. Makes me feel like the Lady of Shallott.
  • victor2
    victor2 Posts: 7,574 Ambassador
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    And the thread awakens after another summer in hibernation...:rotfl:

    I’m a Forum Ambassador and I support the Forum Team on the In My Home MoneySaving, Energy and Techie Stuff boards. If you need any help on these boards, do let me know. Please note that Ambassadors are not moderators. Any posts you spot in breach of the Forum Rules should be reported via the report button, or by emailing forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com. 

    All views are my own and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.

  • lstar337
    lstar337 Posts: 3,441 Forumite
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    victor2 wrote: »
    And the thread awakens after another summer in hibernation...:rotfl:
    I thought the same thing.

    Can't wait to see the theories this year, and of course fellow members of 'the old gang' returning to debunk them. :D:D

    Let the good times roll.
  • Bricks wrote: »
    In terms of the power coming into your home maybe. But that electricity will have been generated in a power station that achieves nowhere near 100% efficiency, and is likely to have been generated from fossil fuels.

    Quite right, thank you. That is why I want more discussion on efficient use of renewables.
  • orrery
    orrery Posts: 797 Forumite
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    edited 29 March 2023 at 6:29PM
    A central thermostat has never made sense to me...

    I have dumb TRVs, to regulate each room but not in the hall, with the hall radiator fairly well strangled off so it only starts to heat the hall as a few of the TRVs start to regulate down

    I have a central thermostat in the hall, which has the benefit of not running the heating at all if the outside temperature doesn't warrant it. I've replaced the central thermostat with a Tado thermostat in order to allow for geo-fencing and remote control - it looks at the outside forecast to work out whether it is worth turning the heating on. If the hall is 0.5C below target and there is lots of sun forecast then it doesn't bother. So, central thermostats are important.
    4kWp, Panels: 16 Hyundai HIS250MG, Inverter: SMA Sunny Boy 4000TLLocation: Bedford, Roof: South East facing, 20 degree pitch20kWh Pylontech US5000 batteries, Lux AC inverter,Skoda Enyaq iV80, TADO Central Heating control
  • Cardew
    Cardew Posts: 29,036 Forumite
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    Bricks wrote: »
    By the way. Just read the "Energy saving Myths" page on MSE. This may have been done already on the many previous pages of this thread, but the "ask jeff" article linked to seems very suspect to me

    http://www.askjeff.co.uk/will-keeping-heating-increase-bills/

    Firstly it seems heavily tinged with climate change denialism.

    Secondly it makes a bizarre claim that those who advocate energy efficiency want people to be less comfortable in order to "punish" them for causing climate change!

    Thirdly it contains a number of non-sequitur statements to do with condensation in walls, and nothing specific to back up its vague argument that this is relevant to the question the article claims to address.

    I'd advise people to ignore this article. I also don't think it should be linked to on the MSE site because it seems to do nothing other than make a series of unsubstantiated claims.

    Excellent post!

    There is a recurring(and stupid) argument every year that goes along the lines:

    'instead of heating my rooms to, say, 21C in the evenings, I find it cheaper to keep the thermostat 24/7 at, say, 16C.'

    Whilst that may well be true, it ignores the fact that almost everyone finds 16C unacceptable in the evening.

    Except those of course who post that 12C is comfortable!
  • lstar337
    lstar337 Posts: 3,441 Forumite
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    I can't always tell what the settings are so I got the service engineer to turn up the one in my study where I spend most time, and turn the one in the hall by the main thermostat well down. What's the point of the Hall being warm because I have my outdoor clothes on in there either going out or coming in. Passing through to the bathroom in the middle of the night is transitory so doesn't count.
    The problem with not heating a hall, is the same problem you get with zoned heating in smaller properties. Unless you keep all doors shut, all the time, then as soon as a door is opened (or left open), then the heat from that room flows out to fill the cold hallway anyway.

    This is unless you dash through doorways and quickly slam the door shut behind you, or install some kind of complicated airlock system on all doorways that join the unheated hallway.

    I prefer to just heat the hall and landing. That way I don't have to feel uncomfortable moving from room to room, or feel like I need to dash about or keep tabs on which doors are opened and closed.
  • malc_b
    malc_b Posts: 1,081 Forumite
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    My 2p.

    The ask jeff article does make claims which are not backed up with studies. However, it is not an unreasonable argument. Wet bricks and wet cavity fill would be more conductive of heat than when dry and houses produce a lot of water vapour some of which escapes through the walls. My gut feeling is that water vapour isn't enough but that's just my gut I've no facts to back that up either way.

    National trust did some tests in one of their properties and found their cost of heating was lower when it was on low 24/7. That could be because the walls stayed dry. Equally it could be because running low is more efficient that running high, especially on a condensing boiler where the difference is at least 10%. For dense property, which all National Trust places would be, the difference between 24/7 and broken running is a ~5% saving which hence would gave a saving on 24/7 running.

    Turning off radiators in unused room is dubious IMO. The insulation in a house is in the outside walls. There is no insulation between rooms and of course air freely moves between rooms. Turning off a radiator in a room just reduces the radiator surface to heat the house. The unheated room is getting heat from the heated areas of the house. It has to be unless it is at outside temperature, i.e. middle of winter, -1C outside, -1C in unused bedroom, ice on the walls.... Doesn't happen. Turn the rad down by all means but keep it sensible, say 18 or 16C, warm enough to keep condensation at bay and so that there isn't too big a difference to the rest of the house. Otherwise that room will be sucking heat out of next door rooms since houses do not have insulation between rooms. The issue in reducing the rad area is that you make the remaining radiators work harder so hot so less efficient with a condensing boiler.

    What most people fail to realise is that everyone is in fact heating their house 24/7. Take a house a 20C, outside is 0C. You turn the heating off at 10pm. Does the temperature drop to 0C? No (unless you live in a tent). What happens is that the house temperature slowly drops overnight to maybe 16C by morning. All through the night heat has been leaking out of the house. That comes from the structure of the house. The next morning when turn the heating on you put that lost heat back into the structure. The overall energy usage is similar, you save a bit overnight because the average temperature is 18C (20C->16C, avg 18C), rather than it being kept at 20C. The downside is that you have to make the heating work harder so it is less efficient.

    I know people struggle with this let me give another analogy. You're in bed trying to keep warm. Option 1 turn on the electric blanket, call that 20W on continuously. Option 2 the house fairy brings you a hot water bottle, that took 6min of 2kW kettle to boil it. It lasts 10hrs. Option 1 uses 20W x 10hr = 200Wh. Option 2 uses 2000 x 6/60 = 200Wh. Exactly the same. Although option 2 only uses the power for a short time it is storing the energy. A house works the same way. You store heat in the structure and release it overnight when the heating off.

    It is therefore not a given that running the heating shorter or turning off radiators will reduce you heating costs. After a point you are making the heating system work harder and so less efficient. After this point the heat saving is outweighed by the loss in efficiency so bottom line is less heat used but more ££ spent.
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