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The sewing thread

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  • PollyWollyDoodle
    PollyWollyDoodle Posts: 2,058 Forumite
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    Kittie you're an inspiration! Today I have traced, marked, cut, spread, taped, traced again ... I am not known for my patience but I stuck at it, I am determined to get a top that FITS. I now have back, front and sleeve pattern pieces adjusted for the places where I already know that I need to add width. Tomorrow I am going to cut out a muslin, fortunately I have a large bolt of calico which I bought second-hand on eBay and have never used for its proper purpose although it's come in handy for all sorts of other things. I am still cutting out in wallpaper, but as soon as funds allow I'm going to get some of the proper paper.

    This is a blog I read, and I thought some of you might be interested in this raffle, some fantastic prizes for sewers! Also, if you follow the link to the instagram site there are some real bargains in patterns, fabrics, books and other stuff - it's all raising money for the Grenfell Tower fund.
    Life is mainly froth and bubble: two things stand like stone. Kindness in another’s trouble, courage in your own.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 12,492 Forumite
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    fantastic!!! Polly really fantastic

    I don`t do a full size muslin if its only the neck bust and shoulders for example and I dont do the facings, I just cut off the SA for the neck and armhole if I don`t need the sleeve.

    I cannot be bothered with tv, so went back upstairs and decided to go through my underwear drawer. I am needing underskirts now. I picked up two I had made in 2013, I couldn`t believe how well they were made but from that warm sticky stretchy thin cotton. They looked fine and so did the camisole but I threw out the 30 year old polyester slips. I decided that I would make two underskirts so looked fabrics up this time and something called bemburg lining is recommended, a rayon which is wicking and cooling, found some on ebay from thailand, 100% reviews, so have ordered 2 yards. Total was £20. Silk is not so good as it is warming, even though I have some silks. Free instructions, p27 for the underskirt
    https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/guides/success-with-sewing-lingerie/452991

    I will need stretch lace so decided to sort my haberdashery box, cor blimey I even have bias bindings in there that I remember rooting for when a haberdashers was closing down. I have loads of stretch lingerie trimmings as well as piles and piles of all sorts of lace trimmings, including fine wider stuff that would look very special on a nightie. That really is the last box to be gone through

    I found a few potentially good skirt patterns including a jalie 8 gore skirt and the petite plus flirty skirt
    http://www.petitepluspatterns.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=505
    Quite honestly I am giving myself a year and will start to get rid of patterns, limiting myself to those that will work

    I have 6 bundles to cut on the table and will add that nightie when the fabric arrives. I am also waiting for some double gauze to arrive, I want to use it for esme. That will make the 8 bundles

    Polly wd on getting that pattern right. Its so hard to do it yourself but once done then its done
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 12,492 Forumite
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    a skim- over dress
    https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/autumn-dress/

    and another
    https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/autumn-dress/

    style arc are cut very well and are true to size all through their range. They are not multi sized so I don`t copy them and the paper is real long lasting paper, not fragile tissue

    amazon do a very nice style arc top called maddison

    I do get patterns straight from style arc in australia and overall the cost seems to work out at about £10 a pattern for 4 patterns. They base postage on weight. The amazon maddison pattern is £9.99 in my size. Amazon must do the printing here in the uk and seem to put multi sizes on one pattern, which is good for drafting eg making the hips bigger or waist smaller

    No actual sewing today but I will get my solo measuring done, can be done with a tape with a D ring on it, eg for around the upper arm and thigh. I am going to safety pin a loose elastic around my waist, to find my waist and also wear a loose neck chain to find my neck and shoulder bits. I have such a tape but could easily be made starting at a number and working from that eg starting at 10 is easy, just subtract 10 from the measurement. Just needed for round bits. I am going to use the mirror today and stand in my normal undies, I need to see that the back isn`t twisted.

    Important: The body measurements need to be transferred to a pattern allowing for ease. I have an ease list, which I will type out here later and also a list of measurements in my chart.
  • Artytarty
    Artytarty Posts: 2,642 Forumite
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    Ooh ease. Thanks Kittie, that will be useful,and interesting.
    I always make things too,snug, they fit perfectly but I can't live in them!
    Yesterday I added a waistband to a pair of light linen summer trousers I'd made last year.
    They were too high on the waist and had a facing, no waistband.
    So I cut them down about two inches and put a skinny waistband on. Much better?
    Today I think I will go to a few charity shops to see what I can find to mess about with.
    Norn Iron Club member 473
  • PollyWollyDoodle
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    Ease is something I'm just learning about, I realised that's why the top that I thought should have fitted, was too tight.

    I did my measurements as part of my muslin planning, I've avoided measuring myself for years so it was a little painful to see what size I really am - I wasn't skinny as a teenager but no wonder things fit straight out of packet then, I was a more regular shape! However one thing that was an eye-opener was the tape-round-the-waist trick, I have always known I had a high waist but I was really surprised at just how high it naturally sits.

    Once I've cracked doing tops, I will tackle a pair of trousers. I always struggle to get ones that fit.
    Life is mainly froth and bubble: two things stand like stone. Kindness in another’s trouble, courage in your own.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 12,492 Forumite
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    edited 10 July 2017 at 11:15AM
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    arty if you go to craft fairs, like the one I like in Builth wells called wonderwool, then there are always several upcycled stands, rows of upcycled skirts for exemple

    I only realised about ease lately too, always made things to the exact measurement or straight out the patten box, thinking it was enough to go by my hip size, so the top was always too big. Doh, all the wasted time and expense but I look on it as a pleasure hobby and people buy cross stitch and so on, then never put them up on the wall

    ease: I am going to use abbreviations, they are all in inches,
    F=fitted, SF=semi-fitted, LF= loose fitting, VLF- very loose fitting

    skirts and trousers:
    1-2 waist the same waist for all fittings
    full hip F 2-3, SF 3-4, LF 4-6. VLF more than 6

    bust ease
    blouses and skirts F 3-4, SF 4-5, LF 5-8, VLF more than 8
    Jackets F 3.5-4.5, SF 4.5-5.5, LF 5.5-10 , VLF more than 10
    coats F 5-7, SF 7-8, LF 8-12, VLF more than 12
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 12,492 Forumite
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    I just found this, I saved it on my desktop, it will help with measuring as it shows where to put the tape. Linda Lee, I absolutely rate her
    https://sewingworkshop.com/files/HowToMeasure2013.pdf

    it also gives more specialised ease like the top arms
  • DigForVictory
    DigForVictory Posts: 11,906 Forumite
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    I've never forgotten my Aunt insisting on buying really nice fabric for her summer frocks as she held that a "nice fabric hides mistakes so much better". So she'd run up a summer outfit in roll end Liberty tana lawn & look sensational in it for years on a fraction of what it appeared to cost.

    The house stash has changed from my bachelor days. I used to have lengths of curtaining (then found my husband & I had rather different tastes in interior design & decor). We now have linens, pure wool & a few oddities like linsey woolsey bought from a mill we know. It isn't summer fun friendly unless you wish to attire a child or self in fire safe credibly period authentic medieval onwards garb - and they tend to slouch in Tshirts & shorts although youngest wore a ("Roman") linen tunic for much of Saturday. He was downright comfortable - I may tug out a bolt of linen & approximate something similar...

    Haberdashers who understood what you wanted to achieve & could advise. Resists temptation to sob over keyboard but Oxford's Cornmarket used to have such a one And an embroidery, tapestry and other complex needle skills shop. The haberdashers window displays changed weekly & I learned many of my tartans from them. <fondly recalls gawking at a swoop of Dress Highland Mary, amongst Ross & other tartans, whilst awaiting a bus>
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 12,492 Forumite
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    Interesting post DfV, aunt was definitely right, quality does last

    I`m just browsing, spent the morning sorting cork infillers to make the table flat under the protective cover and cloth. Used cork roll, cut three pieces and stuck them on card with spray glue. I used a roll and a bit and its fine, does the job. I put the cork face down so it doesn`t slip away, at least now there is no danger of any mug toppling.

    Browsing on the artisan square site, there are endless interesting forums and posts on there. I am not looking for work this afternoon
    http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php
    I have put all my fabrics and matching patterns into a large shopping basket for now, until I feel like cutting them out. Window is open and it is breezy on my bare legs, maybe some long warm skirts would be just right for winter, mmm
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 12,492 Forumite
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    I did it, did my measurements and now recorded in my book. Oh dear no thin measurements anywhere but more accurate definitely. HB is + .5 what I thought and high hip is only 2" less than full hip. haha front baby pouch just about equals the derriere, gotto laugh. I am very glad I did it and needed two mirrors for accuracy. I used masking tape and thin elastic with a safety pin. Hardest to do was the shoulder. Sigh, I remember when I was 34, 23, 36
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