Piping bags and nozzles which ones to buy?

With the change of Governmental policy, given that the profligate waste of plastic typified by this meme's general presumption that placky bacgs are best (despite the copious evidence to the contrary), perhaps it's time for someone trained by semi-professional cooks half a century ago before these became readily available, to have a say. In case you question what semi-professional means, I married the granddaughter of a professional cook, and am the son of an amateur cook who beat 4 out of the 5 professional cooks who made it into the final of the first ever public cookery competition, The Daily Telegraph Silver Spoon Competition in the mid 1970s.

The old school piping bag was originally made of muslin, seamed with rolled seams. It was oiled before use, and sometimes lined with disposable greseproof paper, cut as described above.
Lay your piping bag out flat on the table. Cut a square sheet of greaseproof paper from the roll, and fold it in half diagonally, to get a straight edge. Halve it again, to find the middle, and lay the piping bag on it. What you're going to do is adjust that last fold, so the pocket you're making will fit the bag fairly closely. Do not cut the paper. Once you're there, hold it closed and fit it inside the outer cloth bag, trimming the top if necessary, then fit the piping nozzle and snip the end as per a plastic bag.
Similarly, brown paper bags, once oiled, worked exactly as greaseproof bags would.

In the 1960s, nylon bags became more common, and entered into general use, as they are less porous than muslin. These are the ones Tala still use.

What I'm looking for is heat-resistant non-absorbent thread to sew some once more. The use of plastic is rather overkill - heat-resisant silicone-coated nylon should work very well. Roll all seams, starting with the end seams and then joining the side seams into a cone, on the wrong, coated side, then invert so the coated side can work with the greasproofing to form an unabsorbing surface. To maks a rolled seam manually, turn the ends of the cone over ovce, stitch it down the middlemof the overlap, and repest, close to the apex of the first turnover. This should take about 1/2" of material on both ends, resulting in a seam about 1/4" deep: this will also carry the nozzle on the narrower end.

To extend this to make a rolled join, overlay the edges of the cone shape and stitch down the centre of the overlap. Turn the seams inward into a Z-shape so each open cut edge is buried inside a C- shape formed by the other side, and stitch again, close to the apex of both C wraps, catching the raw edge and the main body: you should be sewing one millimeter from the edge, through four layers of fabric, on each side of the seam. Your first tacking run will therefore be buried inside the wrap, but still plays a role.
The idea is that just as we use a dishcloth to dry our nice, freshly-washed dishes, so we can use cloth to pipe something we're going to cook, or something very sugary like icing. Sugars are too rich for most bacteria, and so the use of these materials is safe for most practical purposes: we've become slightly allergic to some bacteria, simply because we never encounter them through rather extreme hygiene.