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Water spots on red paintwork - recommendations to remove?
We have a bright red car, non metallic.
We've noticed we're getting faint pale spots on the bonnet, which don't seem to want to wash/polish off.
I think they're caused by water/rain.
Any ideas or products to help remove them, or some "home remedies" we can try.
What might be causing it? We're in a hard water area, if that's causing it. We try to avoid washing it in the sun/heat if that's a possible cause.
Cheers.
We've noticed we're getting faint pale spots on the bonnet, which don't seem to want to wash/polish off.
I think they're caused by water/rain.
Any ideas or products to help remove them, or some "home remedies" we can try.
What might be causing it? We're in a hard water area, if that's causing it. We try to avoid washing it in the sun/heat if that's a possible cause.
Cheers.
How's it going, AKA, Nutwatch? - 12 month spends to date = 2.52% of current retirement "pot" (as at end October 2024)
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Comments
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When you say you've tried polish, what specifically have you tried?
Clay bar followed by a finishing polish with a DA machine polish will be the best bet. You could try hard compounds by hand but it will take a lot of elbow grease!
There's a few chemicals you could try, like this:
https://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/products/gtechniq-w9-water-spot-remover
I haven't found them all that good in the past though...1 -
Just standard Autoglym Resin polish.
What's a "DA" machine polish? We don't have a machine. Elbow grease only😉How's it going, AKA, Nutwatch? - 12 month spends to date = 2.52% of current retirement "pot" (as at end October 2024)0 -
This is the product I use and swear by for removing water spots in hard water areas.
https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/products/koch-chemie-fse-finish-spray-exterior
TBH, it sounds like your car could do with some protection. A good polish followed by a wax finish would do it the world of good.1 -
Sea_Shell said:Just standard Autoglym Resin polish.
What's a "DA" machine polish? We don't have a machine. Elbow grease only😉0 -
shiraz99 said:This is the product I use and swear by for removing water spots in hard water areas.
https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/products/koch-chemie-fse-finish-spray-exterior
TBH, it sounds like your car could do with some protection. A good polish followed by a wax finish would do it the world of good.
That Koch does seem to get good reviews.How's it going, AKA, Nutwatch? - 12 month spends to date = 2.52% of current retirement "pot" (as at end October 2024)0 -
Another vote for koch fse.
If you're really keen a deionised water vessel and resin. Just rinse off with the di water and leave to air dry.Funnily, i've been pondering a small Caddy sized van to facilitate a side project i'm going to work on. I havent seen much movement yet, but in theory markets like pickups and vans are likely to be hit by the upcoming downturn.Would be interesting to hear if anyone has direct experience?Why? So you can argue with them?1 -
Is it most likely to be caused by our domestic water or from rain drying on a hot car bonnet, say after a long journey?
We did a long journey in torrential rain last week and then parked up a hot car.
It's strange that it's only on the bonnet, not the roof.How's it going, AKA, Nutwatch? - 12 month spends to date = 2.52% of current retirement "pot" (as at end October 2024)0 -
First off, make sure the bodywork is cool (not a warm bonnet from a hot engine) and the car is in the shade.
Give it a good wash and rinse it off well.
It needs to be really grit free before moving on.
Clay bar it.
You can buy a clay bar kit or clay mitt.
Follow the instructions carefully, the clay needs to be well lubricated otherwises it'll drag off the paint.
Cut the paint with a mild cutting compound/polish.
Don't go too aggressive as you can't go back.
Use something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish or Meguiars Ultimate Compound and go over the rougher patches a couple of times if needed and see what it leaves you with.
Without a Dual Action Mop (DA) you will have to put in some elbow grease, but it helps if you spray the surface with a little clean water as you go.
After all that, protect the surface with a wax.
People like different waxes but try and find one that won't stain the cars trim white.
If you go get wax staining on the trim, smear peanut butter on it, leave it a while then wipe off.
The wax should last 6 months or more so in between, after you wash the car use a Detailer on the painwork and remove and water marks left after washing.
Again, cool paintwork in the shade.
Also if you keep the Detailer in the boot with a cloth you can remove any bird droppings or other marks it picks up between washes.1 -
Thanks Gaudy for that comprehensive "to do" list....I'll pass it on to DH.
We'll probably have a go with with that Koch product recommended above first, and then if there's no improvement we may have to go "all in" with what you've suggested.How's it going, AKA, Nutwatch? - 12 month spends to date = 2.52% of current retirement "pot" (as at end October 2024)0 -
Red cars do tend to suffer with fainting paintwork as they reflect red light (why you see it as red) which has a shorter wavelength and less energy but absorbs other colours which have higher wavelengths and more energy.
This tends to bleach or fade the paint.
Other contaminates can also get baked or stuck on to the paint, particularly the bonnet with its heat source under it.
Run you hand gently over the paint and you will feel little pimples, almost like grit stuck to the paint.
So think of your car as a pale skinned red head out in the sun on a beach!
It's got burnt and full of sand so you clean it (wash and clay).
Remove the peeling skin (compound/polish).
In future you remember to slap some factor 50 on to protect it (wax).1
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