I think my tomato plants are poorly!

demystified

DaftyDuck wrote: »

Magnesium deficiency , from not potting on and overwatering. Epsom salts is the answer if I remember right. It's not really much of a problem to the extent you have.I'd just plant them up.

Edit... ha, teach me to read the last post, I'm just repeating badrick... but I think he's right!

Magnesium deficiency causes yellowing between the veins, not purple.

I'm of the overwatering/not feeding enough opinion too.

They're big enough to plant out now so get them in their final positions, they're doing no good sitting around, mine were a similar size and planted out 2 weeks ago. They still have their seed leaves attached incidently.

C_Mababejive

What is the best way to water toms? leave them in a trough with water in ? Mine have some moss too as im wary of underwatering !

I think OPs toms need bigger pots or grow sacks. You can trim off the lower leaves/stems or any that look like they are dying off..

DaftyDuck

demystified wrote: »

Magnesium deficiency causes yellowing between the veins, not purple.

I'm of the overwatering/not feeding enough opinion too.

They're big enough to plant out now so get them in their final positions, they're doing no good sitting around, mine were a similar size and planted out 2 weeks ago. They still have their seed leaves attached incidently.

It causes chlorosis, which makes leaves paler and subsequently hinders phosphorus uptake. The weaker colour can make the veins stand out more, and some tomato veins are reddish. Magnesium deficiency alone can cause reddish brown colouration, but phosphorus deficiency commonly causes purple coloured leaves. It's not primarily phosphorus deficiency, as the leaf shape isn't malformed. The magnesium deficiency itself could be caused by overwatering and even by the application of too much fertiliser - particularly if you use "proper" tomato feeds, as they have a high potassium level. Potassium is preferentially taken up over magnesium, hence too much fertiliser equals magnesium deficiency.

Most do seem agreed that whatever the exact cause, it doesn't look too bad, and planting out would be best.

DaftyDuck

C_Mababejive wrote: »

What is the best way to water toms? leave them in a trough with water in ? Mine have some moss too as im wary of underwatering !

I think OPs toms need bigger pots or grow sacks. You can trim off the lower leaves/stems or any that look like they are dying off..

Little and often is meant to be best. I've been told not to stand the pots in trays of water - but mine do, and seem fine. Very regular watering twice a day in summer and fertiliser every other day is what mine get - when I remember.

poorly_scammo

I think you need to pot your tomatoes on OP. Judging my the size of them, they won't be getting much nutrients from the small amount of soil which they're currently in.

BTW: the soil should be moist not wet. Something to think about if you're concerned about overwatering.

cyclonebri1

DaftyDuck wrote: »

Little and often is meant to be best. I've been told not to stand the pots in trays of water - but mine do, and seem fine. Very regular watering twice a day in summer and fertiliser every other day is what mine get - when I remember.

Water toms in pots when growing on as often as is needed, that's the point.

Wait until the surface lightens or cracks slightly then splodge with water.

Agreed, toms on a water tray is the most forgiving or easiest for the keen but busy gardener, still needs 2 x per day in summer or the green house

demystified

DaftyDuck wrote: »

Little and often is meant to be best. I've been told not to stand the pots in trays of water - but mine do, and seem fine. Very regular watering twice a day in summer and fertiliser every other day is what mine get - when I remember.

Thats an interesting point actually, I have had toms and sweet peppers grown in 3 1/2 pots from seed and I stand them in trays with 1/2 to 1 inch of water in them too, the compost is permanently wet but they seem to be fine - probably due to the fact that oxygen can still get to the roots, they're not waterlogged in the sense that they're not actually under water, its capillary action that keeps them damp. They're all planted out now but they were like that for 1-2 months.

Its more a practical thing than anything else, my clients simply don't bother to water them so it's the only way to keep them alive from one weeks end to the next.

cyclonebri1

demystified wrote: »

Thats an interesting point actually, I have had toms and sweet peppers grown in 3 1/2 pots from seed and I stand them in trays with 1/2 to 1 inch of water in them too, the compost is permanently wet but they seem to be fine - probably due to the fact that oxygen can still get to the roots, they're not waterlogged in the sense that they're not actually under water, its capillary action that keeps them damp. They're all planted out now but they were like that for 1-2 months.

Its more a practical thing than anything else, my clients simply don't bother to water them so it's the only way to keep them alive from one weeks end to the next.

I'm getting on a bit, but this is the age old way my dad and my grandad used to grow them, everyone else in the allotment areas did too.
They simply nailed a wooden rail about 2" deep all the way around the greenhouse bench, covered it in polythene that they used for cotches and filled it with gravel and water. It certainly worked then and still does today.
The tap roots go down searching for water and end up in the gravel, the finer roots in the pot get fed directly into the pot.
For me it gives the best yield.

There';)s an interesting trial happening in gardeners world on beeb 2, different methods of tom growing but I can't recall if water trays is one of them. The results should be worth watching