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TeeKay63 wrote: »
What I'm trying to find out is whether the Mitsubishi really does deliver a COP of 5, how that changes with loading (if at all) and how the COP falls as o/s temperature drops to around freezing. Or is this the A/C world's equivalent of the car fuel consumption figures?
Cardew wrote: »
Welcome to the forum.
Even then a heat pump needs to be working all day in cold weather as it simply does not have the 'muscle' to warm up quickly a house that has been empty all day.
richardc1983 wrote: »
Or you could do as I do and just set the set points to about 18C when your not in or in bed during very cold weather so that when you get up you can just put it back up again and it will not have a struggle to get back upto temp.
Cardew I have to point out that our huge central heating system took longer to heat the house up from 13C than the air con did. The air con took about 2.5hrs whereas the central heating 5hrs later the house was still cold!
albyota wrote: »
Hi Andy, who advised putting it in the loft?, how did you drain the condense? and when it has pulled all the heat from your loft, how does it perform?
richardc1983 wrote: »
Andy very good what you have done but all manufacters i know advise the outdoor unit to be installed in open air. For instance most peoples lofts are not big enough to have a unit installed in them. Lofts are draughty but they are not fully open to the outside air. YOu say your loft is always warmer than outside thats crazy... (not that i dont believe you) but I have heard customers have had those self install units and put them in the loft. In heating the loft starts of at 5C but then quickly after about an hour the loft is at -10C and the unit is unable to remove any more heat and over working.
Lofts are ventilated but not enough airflow for a unit. However you must have a large loft if you have proved the air temp doesnt drop. You may find yoou have to clean your coil more as dust in lofts is quite fine and may clog the coils.
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