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  • FIRST POST
    • TWICKS
    • By TWICKS 1st Oct 17, 5:53 PM
    • 14Posts
    • 2Thanks
    TWICKS
    Re WELDING Van
    • #1
    • 1st Oct 17, 5:53 PM
    Re WELDING Van 1st Oct 17 at 5:53 PM
    Dear MSE Forum,
    I have work that needs to be done on my Citroen Relay 2.00 HDI van - Welding;- Nearside inner & outer sills + rear wheel arch, offside inner & outer sills.
    What would be APPROX time (hours) to do these repairs? What is a reasonable price to pay (hourly rate/ total)? I am in london but prepared to travel to get a reasonable (both price & quality) job done. I dont know if recommendations can be made here or by P. M. Many thanks Andy (London N4)
Page 1
    • forgotmyname
    • By forgotmyname 1st Oct 17, 6:47 PM
    • 25,870 Posts
    • 10,296 Thanks
    forgotmyname
    • #2
    • 1st Oct 17, 6:47 PM
    • #2
    • 1st Oct 17, 6:47 PM
    Depends on how bad the rust is and whether there is any clean metal to weld the new parts to.

    I welded the floor on a Fiesta some years back, the guy said its a small hole barely big enough for a finger.
    Wire brush on a drill and you could stick your head through the hole.

    The foor was mostly rust.. You cannot weld to rust.

    From what you mention start at £700 and go upwards.... Cheaper to buy a new van?
    Punctuation, Spelling and Grammar will be used sparingly. Due to rising costs of inflation.

    My contribution to MSE. Other contributions will only be used if they cost me nothing.

    Due to me being a tight git.
    • Lomast
    • By Lomast 1st Oct 17, 7:15 PM
    • 342 Posts
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    Lomast
    • #3
    • 1st Oct 17, 7:15 PM
    • #3
    • 1st Oct 17, 7:15 PM
    I would agree around 700 would be my guess without seeing it

    • Jackmydad
    • By Jackmydad 1st Oct 17, 7:54 PM
    • 716 Posts
    • 1,119 Thanks
    Jackmydad
    • #4
    • 1st Oct 17, 7:54 PM
    • #4
    • 1st Oct 17, 7:54 PM
    Depends on how bad the rust is and whether there is any clean metal to weld the new parts to.

    I welded the floor on a Fiesta some years back, the guy said its a small hole barely big enough for a finger.
    Wire brush on a drill and you could stick your head through the hole.

    The foor was mostly rust.. You cannot weld to rust.

    From what you mention start at £700 and go upwards.... Cheaper to buy a new van?
    Originally posted by forgotmyname
    That's the trouble. If you do the job properly, you start looking for solid metal to weld to, and end up with a very large hole.
    Friend of mine who has his own garage and does MOTs says that once vehicles get to the point of needing more than minor repairs for small holes then it's time to say goodbye.
    Unless you have the time, skills and inclination to DIY of course.
    Don't know about the price. Sorry.
    • marlot
    • By marlot 1st Oct 17, 8:04 PM
    • 3,069 Posts
    • 2,197 Thanks
    marlot
    • #5
    • 1st Oct 17, 8:04 PM
    • #5
    • 1st Oct 17, 8:04 PM
    Unless the rest of the van is immaculate, I'd suggest that this amount of welding is the end of the road and its time to break the van for spares.
    • TWICKS
    • By TWICKS 2nd Oct 17, 11:51 AM
    • 14 Posts
    • 2 Thanks
    TWICKS
    • #6
    • 2nd Oct 17, 11:51 AM
    • #6
    • 2nd Oct 17, 11:51 AM
    Thanks for your advice Forgot to mention interior has been converted to a campervan so is worth more than a basic van. When you get a quote for welding how is it worked out usually Expected time (hrs)/(days) Expected job ? and what would be reasonable hrly rate to expect to pay
    • droopsnoot
    • By droopsnoot 2nd Oct 17, 12:33 PM
    • 1,073 Posts
    • 676 Thanks
    droopsnoot
    • #7
    • 2nd Oct 17, 12:33 PM
    • #7
    • 2nd Oct 17, 12:33 PM
    Being converted to a camper van would, IMO, increase the price of the work, simply because there is more interior to have to remove prior to actually starting the welding work compared to an unlined, untrimmed van. Or do vans have a lot of interior trim in the load area these days?

    Garages are often reluctant to provide much of a quotation for repairing rust, for the reason above - it's very hard to tell how much needs to be stripped back before reaching solid metal.
    • forgotmyname
    • By forgotmyname 2nd Oct 17, 1:45 PM
    • 25,870 Posts
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    forgotmyname
    • #8
    • 2nd Oct 17, 1:45 PM
    • #8
    • 2nd Oct 17, 1:45 PM
    Add carpets and flammable items and the bill just got bigger. Does it have a gas stove or an additional battery? If so then its more work.

    Buy a non rusty one and swap the camper bits over? Take a class in welding and buy yourself a welder?
    Punctuation, Spelling and Grammar will be used sparingly. Due to rising costs of inflation.

    My contribution to MSE. Other contributions will only be used if they cost me nothing.

    Due to me being a tight git.
    • Jackmydad
    • By Jackmydad 2nd Oct 17, 2:29 PM
    • 716 Posts
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    Jackmydad
    • #9
    • 2nd Oct 17, 2:29 PM
    • #9
    • 2nd Oct 17, 2:29 PM
    Add carpets and flammable items and the bill just got bigger. Does it have a gas stove or an additional battery? If so then its more work.

    Buy a non rusty one and swap the camper bits over? Take a class in welding and buy yourself a welder?
    Originally posted by forgotmyname
    No doubt about it, once you start down the welding route, unless the repairs really are done properly, then you're going to be at it forever.
    By "proper" repairs I mean using proper repair panels / sections such as:
    https://coastalmotorhomes.co.uk/body-exhaust/body-repair-panels/sills/peugeot-boxer-citroen-relay-fiat-ducato-outer-sill-repair-panel.html (no affiliation)
    And having the skill to remove any rusty areas in the surrounding areas, and replace to a good standard, and not just bang a few patches over the rusty bits, leaving the rust to "fester" behind.
    If you could buy a decent, clean, ordinary van and swap the camper bits over, it'd probably be a better, and in the long run cheaper, plan.
    • Tarambor
    • By Tarambor 2nd Oct 17, 6:50 PM
    • 1,330 Posts
    • 918 Thanks
    Tarambor
    Inner and outer sills? That's not good and it won't be cheap. Usually its only replacing the outer sills and you weld those to the inners. As others have said you may find that it is going to be a major job requiring much of the interior to be stripped out because of the risk of fire as the inner sill will be welded to the floor and there is a lot of heat generated to the point the metal gets a bright orange and that can set fire to carpet, underlay, soundproofing or any other fittings attached to the floor.

    Rear wheel arch alone you're looking at a few hundred quid once its been done and painted.
    • Jackmydad
    • By Jackmydad 2nd Oct 17, 7:05 PM
    • 716 Posts
    • 1,119 Thanks
    Jackmydad
    Inner and outer sills? That's not good and it won't be cheap. Usually its only replacing the outer sills and you weld those to the inners. As others have said you may find that it is going to be a major job requiring much of the interior to be stripped out because of the risk of fire as the inner sill will be welded to the floor and there is a lot of heat generated to the point the metal gets a bright orange and that can set fire to carpet, underlay, soundproofing or any other fittings attached to the floor.

    Rear wheel arch alone you're looking at a few hundred quid once its been done and painted.
    Originally posted by Tarambor
    I can remember gas welding a patch into the floor of my Vauxhall Victor. Wearing goggles, you can't really see a normal flame. I thought, "That's smelling hot", whipped the goggles off, and I'd got quite a nice little underseal fire going. The hosepipe put it out luckily!
    It's scared me again just typing about it!
    • Lomast
    • By Lomast 2nd Oct 17, 8:28 PM
    • 342 Posts
    • 254 Thanks
    Lomast
    Hmm last camper van I welded I spent 4 hours just removing trim etc before I could even start welding so that was £160 before I had picked up the welder.

    • Robisere
    • By Robisere 2nd Oct 17, 10:14 PM
    • 1,787 Posts
    • 2,569 Thanks
    Robisere
    Around 1978, I had to weld up corrosion to my much-missed brother's VW camper, which had been converted from a 1960's microbus. I took out all the interior, which filled the garage and his shed and took ages. It took me 5 months of weekends to complete the job, clean and take out any surface corrosion, Waxoyl everywhere and refit. Long before I had finished, I was wishing that I had found him another, newer van. Every time I set out to clean and prepare an area, I found more corrosion. 2 years later, I had to fit a new exhaust system and heat exchangers, which anyone who has done will tell you, is a horrible job. A few years later, he became ill and had to sell the van, which made a great deal more than he paid for it. Being the brother he was, he gave me half the money.

    To be brutally honest, I think you should cut your losses and find another vehicle. Removing the interior, which carries the risk of breakage, carrying out the work (and inevitably finding more) then refitting, is a long job. Refitting is especially time-consuming and nothing ever goes back exactly right. If you do this, make sure you photograph everything before you remove any of it.

    But I wish I had that VW campervan now, in good condition! Good ones are selling for stupid money.
    There may be more than one way to skin a cat.
    But the result is always inedible.

    • seatbeltnoob
    • By seatbeltnoob 2nd Oct 17, 10:48 PM
    • 219 Posts
    • 54 Thanks
    seatbeltnoob
    Not sure if there's a newer version but citroen relay HDI 2.0 is coming up on gumtree for £400. Time to get a new van I think.
    Last edited by seatbeltnoob; 02-10-2017 at 10:52 PM.
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