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  • FIRST POST
    • wallofbeans
    • By wallofbeans 9th Sep 17, 7:23 PM
    • 762Posts
    • 25Thanks
    wallofbeans
    removing excess phone sockets - who can do that?
    • #1
    • 9th Sep 17, 7:23 PM
    removing excess phone sockets - who can do that? 9th Sep 17 at 7:23 PM
    Hi all,

    Our house is full of phone sockets that are no longer used and we're about to do some redecorating and I'd like to remove all but the main one. Who do I call to do that - an electrician or someone from BT or someone else..?

    And does anybody have a recommendation of someone in south London?

    Thanks!

    UPDATED IMAGES OF ALL SOCKETS AND BOXES IN HOUSE:
    https://imgur.com/a/MEX9S
    Last edited by wallofbeans; 10-09-2017 at 12:49 PM. Reason: Added link to full set of images
Page 6
    • Mister G
    • By Mister G 13th Sep 17, 6:31 PM
    • 431 Posts
    • 259 Thanks
    Mister G
    No, just push them in with the tool
    • AndyPK
    • By AndyPK 13th Sep 17, 6:32 PM
    • 2,433 Posts
    • 651 Thanks
    AndyPK
    Yeap you have that exactly right now!
    • Mister G
    • By Mister G 13th Sep 17, 6:35 PM
    • 431 Posts
    • 259 Thanks
    Mister G
    Here's a Youtube video

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaKTUF4UoEI

    that shows you how to use the metal tool. The plastic one works just the same
    • wallofbeans
    • By wallofbeans 13th Sep 17, 6:52 PM
    • 762 Posts
    • 25 Thanks
    wallofbeans
    Thanks all...

    My only question now is, why does the new master socket have an A and B on for the extension but the old one doesn't?

    Should I use them if keeping an extension going from this new master?
    • decbel
    • By decbel 13th Sep 17, 7:08 PM
    • 1,494 Posts
    • 1,616 Thanks
    decbel
    No - was I supposed to?
    Originally posted by wallofbeans
    With screw terminals yes remove some insulation.

    With the newer terminals which use the push in tool the terminals themselves cut off the insulation as you push the cables down.
    • AndyPK
    • By AndyPK 13th Sep 17, 7:15 PM
    • 2,433 Posts
    • 651 Thanks
    AndyPK
    My only question now is, why does the new master socket have an A and B on for the extension but the old one doesn't?
    Originally posted by wallofbeans
    Because its a modern one, designed for broadband.

    The router should be plugged directly into the master socket smaller socket (not using the filter as previously).

    If you were want the router elsewhere, you would use the LOWER AB terminals to connect to the router ONLY
    • Colin_Maybe
    • By Colin_Maybe 13th Sep 17, 7:17 PM
    • 1,269 Posts
    • 555 Thanks
    Colin_Maybe
    Haha! Phew. Okay, so they don't mention the A & B in that way in these instructions because I shouldn't be touching them..?
    Originally posted by wallofbeans
    Legally no, you shouldn't touch them as it's OR's responsibility but you've already removed the old box so don't worry about that (hence my wink earlier)

    Look at he youtube video given earlier, it's around about this time mark: https://youtu.be/DaKTUF4UoEI?t=103

    Leaves the insulation on and use the plastic tool to push the wires down in to A & B, this will cut through the insulation and connect with the copper. Snip off the ends one at a time so you don't short across the two. Job should be done.
    • Colin_Maybe
    • By Colin_Maybe 13th Sep 17, 7:19 PM
    • 1,269 Posts
    • 555 Thanks
    Colin_Maybe
    Because its a modern one, designed for broadband.

    The router should be plugged directly into the master socket smaller socket (not using the filter as previously).

    If you were want the router elsewhere, you would use the LOWER AB terminals to connect to the router ONLY
    Originally posted by AndyPK

    Damn, now you've got me wondering if I'm wrong.


    No, I'm right, this is a better video as it shows the connection from the drop wire (the OR end that enters the property) in to the back of the box to the A & B terminals. It also shows how to wire an extension to to the 2 & 5 pins which is what they're for.

    https://youtu.be/5UxkSUaMVM8?t=533
    Last edited by Colin_Maybe; 13-09-2017 at 7:26 PM.
    • AndyPK
    • By AndyPK 13th Sep 17, 7:49 PM
    • 2,433 Posts
    • 651 Thanks
    AndyPK
    The new ones have 2 sets of AB terminals.
    • wallofbeans
    • By wallofbeans 13th Sep 17, 8:11 PM
    • 762 Posts
    • 25 Thanks
    wallofbeans
    I'm still a little confused. So the line from outside goes onto the A and B terminals that are on their own.

    And does anything connect to the second set of A and B terminals that are on the faceplate bit and above number 2-5? Or do I just stick with the numbers and ignore that second A and B?

    If nothing connects to those second A and B terminals - then what are they there for?
    • AndyPK
    • By AndyPK 13th Sep 17, 8:16 PM
    • 2,433 Posts
    • 651 Thanks
    AndyPK
    Yes. Use the top ab on there own with the wire Thru the wall.

    And 235 for the wire out the side
    • wallofbeans
    • By wallofbeans 13th Sep 17, 8:28 PM
    • 762 Posts
    • 25 Thanks
    wallofbeans
    Yes. Use the top ab on there own with the wire Thru the wall.

    And 235 for the wire out the side
    Originally posted by AndyPK
    Photo of the master socket sections to help clarify...
    https://imgur.com/a/a2QyK
    • AndyPK
    • By AndyPK 13th Sep 17, 8:39 PM
    • 2,433 Posts
    • 651 Thanks
    AndyPK
    Use Ab1 for the wires Thru the wall
    • iniltous
    • By iniltous 13th Sep 17, 9:40 PM
    • 1,394 Posts
    • 488 Thanks
    iniltous
    I think a way to 'clarify' the wiring of the master socket is to consider what it is the 2 part master socket is designed to do....the removable 'consumer' panel is the demarcation point between what OR are responsible for , and what you, the consumer, is responsible for.
    Older NTE5 master sockets had screw terminals for A and B, this is the 'line' from the exchange and effectively makes the 'test port' active, it would appear that new NTE5's have IDC, insulation displacement connections, not screw terminals .

    If the wiring to your extensions is connected to the consumer panel, when the socket is disassembled , the extension wiring and sockets are disconnected from the line , you can only access the test port by disassembling the socket, so plugging into the test port effectively removes extensions/wiring from the 'line', when the socket is assembled, the consumer panel is 'live' and any extension wiring and sockets connected to the consumer panel also become 'live'
    If a fault developed on an extension , or the extension wiring by removing the consumer panel, that 'fault' is removed from the line, this enables you to localise problems yourself to the 'line' or the 'extensions' so if your line stopped working, your provider asks you to check in the test port, if the line is OK there, then the fault is on your own wiring, if the line still doesn't work at the test port, the chances are the fault is on what OR or your CP is responsible for.

    You connect the line from outside to the AB connections that are on the socket back panel, not the removable consumer panel, this will make the test port 'live'...connect your extension wiring to the IDC's on the consumer panel '2' and '5' , your extensions will only work when the consumer panel is 'plugged in'
    Last edited by iniltous; 13-09-2017 at 9:53 PM.
    • Colin_Maybe
    • By Colin_Maybe 13th Sep 17, 9:42 PM
    • 1,269 Posts
    • 555 Thanks
    Colin_Maybe
    Use Ab1 for the wires Thru the wall
    Originally posted by AndyPK
    Agreed. I didn't know it had 2 lots of A & B connections.
    • wallofbeans
    • By wallofbeans 14th Sep 17, 5:16 PM
    • 762 Posts
    • 25 Thanks
    wallofbeans
    I still don't know why there is a need for a second set of A & B ports...

    BUT it's done and it works!
    I rewired the master and it is secure, wiring very tidy and working perfectly. I then removed the excess extensions going upstairs and apart from some filler and painting I now need to do... All is good!

    Thank you so much for all your help with this! I now have a reasonable level understanding of this and I'm sure it will be helpful again in the future.
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