Your browser isn't supported
It looks like you're using an old web browser. To get the most out of the site and to ensure guides display correctly, we suggest upgrading your browser now. Download the latest:

Welcome to the MSE Forums

We're home to a fantastic community of MoneySavers but anyone can post. Please exercise caution & report spam, illegal, offensive or libellous posts/messages: click "report" or email forumteam@. Skimlinks & other affiliated links are turned on

Search
  • FIRST POST
    • toakenspy
    • By toakenspy 13th Jun 17, 4:18 PM
    • 1Posts
    • 0Thanks
    toakenspy
    Car Finance - Faulty Vehicle
    • #1
    • 13th Jun 17, 4:18 PM
    Car Finance - Faulty Vehicle 13th Jun 17 at 4:18 PM
    Hi folks,
    I purchased a car on finance in December 2017. I viewed the car and agreed that I was wanted to go ahead and make the purchase as I already had the finance sorted. The only thing that I noticed was a whine coming from the engine, but not being a mechanic I never really bothered about it as I had always wanted this make and model. I contacted the finance company and gave them all the details of the trader and the car, and then signed all the paperwork at the showroom. I was told the car was going to go into the workshop to be be checked over so I told them I would collect the following weekend to give them some time. so I physically collected the car a week after signing the documents, which was the 10th December 2016. A couple of days after driving it the whine got pretty bad, aso I swung by my local garage and asked them to be told me that the turbo was on it's way out, and it's a potential expensive fix, so I contacted the dealer and he asked me to bring it back to assess it. That same week I got in my car in the city centre to drive home from work and the front spring snapped when i shut the driver's door. I eventually managed to have it recovered to the dealer and get a lift home. The dealer told me they would replace the spring and the turbo at the same time. Excellent. With the turbo praying on my mind the slight popping from the front driver's wheel wasn't a priority, but now the car was driving much quieter I could hear it every time I went over a bump or turned the steering to the right. I was now over my 30 day warranty so I had the front suspension mount replaced. No dice. After 5 months of annoying knocking, in May my local garage took the car in again and replaced the drop link, and since the car was giving poor MPG I had it checked out, to find it was running cold, and the thermostat had stuck open, so I had the EGR and main thermostat replaced at my expense. When it was in my local garage the mechanic noticed a slight oil leak and asked me if I wanted him to check it out, I said yes. He removed the skid plates from under the car to find a leak from the oil sump, but there was some sort of epoxy putty covering the source of the leak but it was still seeping from the sides. So the oil leak was gradual. He quoted me over £400 to replace the oil sump and replace the oil. This was just the last straw. I contacted the trader and after 4 weeks they had not replied, so I contacted my finance company who told me I was 3 days over the 6 months and I would need to pay to have the car inspected to prove the faults were there when I got the car.

    So I paid and had an inspection done, to be told the car has 21 FAULTS!! One of which deemed the car dangerous to drive! I needed the car for work so again, I paid to have the cracked front hub replaced so I could get some use of the car safely. But the other 20 faults involve leaking suspension all round, a bent front drop link (possibly when the spring snapped as it's the same side), suspension bars which have completely rusted away and loads more. The total cost to repair these faults is £3'141.00!! Hopefully there isn't a judge in this land who could try and say that a suspension rod could rust completely rust away and crumble in the space of 6 months, neither could an oil sump which is covered by a strong skid plate be punctured and repair itself with putty.

    I passed the report on to the finance company and they have spoken to the garage who done the inspection who verified most of the issues they found were more than likely over 6 months old, and now I am waiting to hear back as to what the next step would be. The thing is, if they are going by the date I signed the finance agreement then they are correct, however I never took collection of the car until a week AFTER I signed the paperwork so I would never had 6 months opportunity to highlight any faults.

    21 faults found on a car in the first 6 months ownership is ridiculous, and I am looking to find out the best and worst case scenario, given the costs to put it right.

    Sorry for the long winded explanation but I wanted to give a clear explanation as to the history of problems with my 2006 BMW 320d.
Page 1
    • Clive Woody
    • By Clive Woody 13th Jun 17, 4:54 PM
    • 4,356 Posts
    • 4,984 Thanks
    Clive Woody
    • #2
    • 13th Jun 17, 4:54 PM
    • #2
    • 13th Jun 17, 4:54 PM
    Hi folks,
    I purchased a car on finance in December 2017.
    Originally posted by toakenspy
    Was it a Delorean?

    Might be the flux capacitor playing up
    Rugby Union - The Greatest Game
    • AdrianC
    • By AdrianC 13th Jun 17, 5:35 PM
    • 14,766 Posts
    • 13,121 Thanks
    AdrianC
    • #3
    • 13th Jun 17, 5:35 PM
    • #3
    • 13th Jun 17, 5:35 PM
    I physically collected the car a week after signing the documents, which was the 10th December 2016.

    A couple of days after driving it the whine got pretty bad, aso I swung by my local garage and asked them to be told me that the turbo was on it's way out, and it's a potential expensive fix

    That same week I got in my car in the city centre to drive home from work and the front spring snapped

    in May my local garage took the car in again and replaced the drop link, and since the car was giving poor MPG I had it checked out, to find it was running cold, and the thermostat had stuck open, so I had the EGR and main thermostat replaced at my expense. When it was in my local garage the mechanic noticed a slight oil leak and asked me if I wanted him to check it out, I said yes. He removed the skid plates from under the car to find a leak from the oil sump, but there was some sort of epoxy putty covering the source of the leak but it was still seeping from the sides. So the oil leak was gradual. He quoted me over £400 to replace the oil sump and replace the oil. This was just the last straw. I contacted the trader and after 4 weeks they had not replied, so I contacted my finance company who told me I was 3 days over the 6 months and I would need to pay to have the car inspected to prove the faults were there when I got the car.

    So I paid and had an inspection done, to be told the car has 21 FAULTS!! One of which deemed the car dangerous to drive! I needed the car for work so again, I paid to have the cracked front hub replaced so I could get some use of the car safely. But the other 20 faults involve leaking suspension all round, a bent front drop link (possibly when the spring snapped as it's the same side), suspension bars which have completely rusted away and loads more. The total cost to repair these faults is £3'141.00!! Hopefully there isn't a judge in this land who could try and say that a suspension rod could rust completely rust away and crumble in the space of 6 months, neither could an oil sump which is covered by a strong skid plate be punctured and repair itself with putty.

    Sorry for the long winded explanation but I wanted to give a clear explanation as to the history of problems with my 2006 BMW 320d.
    Originally posted by toakenspy
    When was the last MOT? Many of those should have either failed or been noted, if they'd been present at the time. What pre-purchase inspection did you have done on the car?

    You can prove that the sump was leaking and bodged six months after purchase - but how do you plan to prove that wasn't a bodge done since purchase?

    You've taken the car to your local garage for these faults to be fixed, without referring back to the vendor - maybe the garage are taking you for a ride, not the vendor? There is no proof - other than the garage's word - of these faults ever having existed...

    At the end of the day, it's a decade old car, and many of these issues are wear-and-tear related. They go, they're a semi-consumable. You've said yourself that the droplink - itself a consumable - could have been bent when the spring failed.

    (You've "always wanted" a couple of grand's worth of decade-old base-spec diesel repmobile? You need to eat more cheese before bed, mate...)
    • angrycrow
    • By angrycrow 13th Jun 17, 5:36 PM
    • 322 Posts
    • 240 Thanks
    angrycrow
    • #4
    • 13th Jun 17, 5:36 PM
    • #4
    • 13th Jun 17, 5:36 PM
    This is an 11 year old car, all of the suspension issues will be classed as normal wear and tear, dependent on mileage (ie over 100000 miles) the turbo could also be classed as wear and tear. That just leaves the sump, again at 11 years old it could be corrosion that caused the hole which could well fall under wear and tear. This does not sound like an open and shut case if it went to court and a judge could rule the garage have already gone over their required resposibility with the repairs already done.

    Remember the cars are designed to stay together long enough to last the warranty period. After 10 years most components will be approaching the point they need renewing.
    • Tarambor
    • By Tarambor 13th Jun 17, 10:07 PM
    • 1,011 Posts
    • 684 Thanks
    Tarambor
    • #5
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:07 PM
    • #5
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:07 PM
    Your local garage are taking you for a ride. Rust on suspension components is nothing out of the place and I doubt very much its turned to dust. The roads in this country are so bad that drop links needing replacing isn't uncommon - my wifes car used to fail on them almost every MOT until she changed jobs and route to work. Suspension weeping on an 11 year old car is to be expected, shockers tend to need doing between 70-100,000 miles, less if its spent its time driving round town.

    You've bought an 11 year old car and it has the faults I'd expect an 11 year old car to have.
    Last edited by Tarambor; 13-06-2017 at 10:09 PM.
    • parking_question_chap
    • By parking_question_chap 13th Jun 17, 10:48 PM
    • 1,384 Posts
    • 1,186 Thanks
    parking_question_chap
    • #6
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:48 PM
    • #6
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:48 PM
    Can we have a short summary?

    • waamo
    • By waamo 13th Jun 17, 10:52 PM
    • 1,910 Posts
    • 2,281 Thanks
    waamo
    • #7
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:52 PM
    • #7
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:52 PM
    Can we have a short summary?
    Originally posted by parking_question_chap
    Old car is broken and repairs are expensive.
    This space for hire.
    • parking_question_chap
    • By parking_question_chap 13th Jun 17, 10:58 PM
    • 1,384 Posts
    • 1,186 Thanks
    parking_question_chap
    • #8
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:58 PM
    • #8
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:58 PM
    Old car is broken and repairs are expensive.
    Originally posted by waamo
    OP, buy newer car.

    Next!
    • arcon5
    • By arcon5 13th Jun 17, 10:59 PM
    • 13,000 Posts
    • 8,225 Thanks
    arcon5
    • #9
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:59 PM
    • #9
    • 13th Jun 17, 10:59 PM
    Take it for an mot, that'll tell you more about what your dealing with than a report. Easy to find 'issues' on an old car, not all are dangerous!!!
Welcome to our new Forum!

Our aim is to save you money quickly and easily. We hope you like it!

Forum Team Contact us

Live Stats

4,943Posts Today

8,538Users online

Martin's Twitter