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  • FIRST POST
    • cashferret
    • By cashferret 12th Jun 17, 12:47 PM
    • 179Posts
    • 91Thanks
    cashferret
    How best to ventilate with sash windows?
    • #1
    • 12th Jun 17, 12:47 PM
    How best to ventilate with sash windows? 12th Jun 17 at 12:47 PM
    I live in a flat with a lounge that has three very leaky wooden sash-windows. I have to have 66 sq cm ventilation because I have an open-flue back-boiler in the hearth.

    Iím having my windows draught-proofed and am thinking anew about the ventilation. I currently have a circular fan-vent, which lets in a massive draught. Iím wondering if there would be a better vent to get, or whether it would be better to have a couple of the windows fixed open at the top by 5mm, which would give the same amount of ventilation (5mm is the minimum youíre allowed).

    I want to keep rain out, of course, and insects Ė houseflies like to crawl in!

    I canít have trickle vents because the wood that frames each section of the window isnít deep enough (and the building Iím in is listed).

    Does anyone have any thoughts?
Page 1
    • Private Church
    • By Private Church 12th Jun 17, 5:33 PM
    • 307 Posts
    • 765 Thanks
    Private Church
    • #2
    • 12th Jun 17, 5:33 PM
    • #2
    • 12th Jun 17, 5:33 PM
    Whoever is doing the draughtproofing can fit a trickle vent in the top rail of the top sash and this will ventilate. Other option is to fit sash restrictors which are simple to fit and will allow the window to be opened by a small amount to ventilate and when you want to open the window fully you just take them off with a small key (suopplied)........... Please tell me the company draught proofing your windows isn't Ventrolla.............

    https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/vertical-sliding-sash-stop-brass-plated-867227

    https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/trimvent-xr16-upvctimber-window-vent-recessed-352x16mm-white-906766
    Last edited by Private Church; 12-06-2017 at 5:38 PM.
    "If we in Parliament cannot gain personally then there is very little point in us being here"

    : Lord Manchester addressing Parliament around 1649.......
    ......
    • the_r_sole
    • By the_r_sole 12th Jun 17, 5:54 PM
    • 2,317 Posts
    • 1,163 Thanks
    the_r_sole
    • #3
    • 12th Jun 17, 5:54 PM
    • #3
    • 12th Jun 17, 5:54 PM
    Do you have a ventilated subfloor?
    A good option would be to have the vent for combustion close to the hearth and using air from the subfloor, that way you can avoid any issues with wind/driving rain and shortening the life span of your windows
    • cashferret
    • By cashferret 13th Jun 17, 8:42 AM
    • 179 Posts
    • 91 Thanks
    cashferret
    • #4
    • 13th Jun 17, 8:42 AM
    • #4
    • 13th Jun 17, 8:42 AM
    Whoever is doing the draughtproofing can fit a trickle vent in the top rail of the top sash and this will ventilate.
    Originally posted by Private Church
    Hi PC - alas, I don't think I can have a trickle vent because the top rail of the sash is too narrow and I'm in a listed building, so I don't think it would be acceptable cosmetically.

    Thanks for the sash restrictor links - they look good.

    Yes, it's Ventrolla! What should I know? I've already paid the deposit...
    • cashferret
    • By cashferret 13th Jun 17, 8:44 AM
    • 179 Posts
    • 91 Thanks
    cashferret
    • #5
    • 13th Jun 17, 8:44 AM
    • #5
    • 13th Jun 17, 8:44 AM
    Do you have a ventilated subfloor?
    A good option would be to have the vent for combustion close to the hearth and using air from the subfloor, that way you can avoid any issues with wind/driving rain and shortening the life span of your windows
    Originally posted by the_r_sole
    I don't know anything about the subfloor - the building is a terrace built in 1790. I can't see any ventilation bricks but maybe they're in the space between the flats and venting up where I can't see them.
    • Private Church
    • By Private Church 13th Jun 17, 8:31 PM
    • 307 Posts
    • 765 Thanks
    Private Church
    • #6
    • 13th Jun 17, 8:31 PM
    • #6
    • 13th Jun 17, 8:31 PM
    Hi PC - alas, I don't think I can have a trickle vent because the top rail of the sash is too narrow and I'm in a listed building, so I don't think it would be acceptable cosmetically.

    Thanks for the sash restrictor links - they look good.

    Yes, it's Ventrolla! What should I know? I've already paid the deposit...
    Originally posted by cashferret
    Just my opinion but its given as someone who has been making sash windows for over 30 years. They charge an awful lot of money for the work they do which any competant carpenter can do .I've seen windows "repaired" with their super duper 2 pack filler which looked like it had been put on with a brick trowel.

    On here a couple of years ago was a lady called Claire who employed Ventrolla to replace all of the sash windows in her house. The company made all of the windows the wrong sizes and the cowboys they employed who fitted them took out all of the timber supporting lintels which held up all of the floors above and brickwork. Her house could have fallen down because of Ventrolla's incompetence and if it wasn't for a couple of guys on here who told her to phone building control after she posted some photo's of the lintels laying in her garden the question people should be asking is how many of their customers who didn't know better are living in houses which could fall down tomorrow.

    Link to long thread, a very sad story of incompetence , awful workmanship and dire customer service.

    http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5320553#topofpage

    Pesonally I wouldn't let any of them sweep my workshop floor let alone draught proof my windows.

    Having said all of that as long as they are only draught stripping the windows they shouldn't be able to do too much harm. Out of interest how big are your windows and how much have they quoted you to draughtproof them?..

    When I use to draught proof old sash windows I could easily do 2 sash windows a day (sometimes 3) including easing and adjusting,adding extra weights if necessary,fully draught strip , replace part beads and staff beads, replace sash pully,sash fasteners,lifts and sash pulls and I'm guessing they are charging you somewhere around £400 per window for a job which should cost £200 for an average sized sash window (1700mm high x 1100mm wide).........
    Last edited by Private Church; 13-06-2017 at 8:57 PM.
    "If we in Parliament cannot gain personally then there is very little point in us being here"

    : Lord Manchester addressing Parliament around 1649.......
    ......
    • cashferret
    • By cashferret 14th Jun 17, 7:49 AM
    • 179 Posts
    • 91 Thanks
    cashferret
    • #7
    • 14th Jun 17, 7:49 AM
    • #7
    • 14th Jun 17, 7:49 AM
    Thanks, PC - yikes, that's scary - I hope it depends on the local contractors. A local friend of mine used them and was pleased with the work. I'm not having windows replaced but they're doing all the other stuff you mentioned and yes, they quoted me about £400 per window. However, the other people I phoned to get quotes didn't even phone me back and I need the work done urgently so that I was over a barrel, really.
    • Biggles
    • By Biggles 14th Jun 17, 8:34 AM
    • 7,390 Posts
    • 4,777 Thanks
    Biggles
    • #8
    • 14th Jun 17, 8:34 AM
    • #8
    • 14th Jun 17, 8:34 AM
    Re sash stops, I prefer this type https://www.locksonline.co.uk/Sash-Window-Locks-/Bramah-R1-ROLA-Retractable-Sash-Window-Stop.html, which I've used for over 30 years.

    No removable stops to lose, just a key with which they retract if you want to open the window and, with them in place, you can open windows to whatever you choose as ventilation depth. And you can leave them like that when you go out, as they are completely burglar-proof.
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