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  • FIRST POST
    • kittie
    • By kittie 9th Dec 16, 7:42 AM
    • 10,766Posts
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    kittie
    The sewing thread
    • #1
    • 9th Dec 16, 7:42 AM
    The sewing thread 9th Dec 16 at 7:42 AM
    We have an active knitters thread on the os board, I always felt that we should have a sewers thread here too, in visible sight. Many many people sew and there are also many learners. I made my first skirt on a treadle singer machine at age 10, many of us oldies were taught sewing at a very early age. The craft died down for many years when cheap clothing shops flooded the high streets but there is a re-awakening and I have grandchildren who are desperate to learn how to sew. I believe that a sewers thread should take equal place with the knitters thread and on this board

    I am still an active sewer, using three machines, overlocker, sewing machine and coverstitch. Even sewing a plain hemmed tablecloth for all day coverage to keep the table nice, using good quality fabric, takes less than two hours and gets lots of good comments, also very practical and made in a light fabric, it brightens that corner of the room

    I am about to teach my 8 year old grand daughter, who is getting a future-proofed real janome sewing machine for christmas. She will obviously have to start with pedal control, forward and backward etc but I can see her making an apron for her mum after half an hour of basics. I have a simple paper pattern ready, the fabric and the notions. We will do simple cutting out of two fabrics, then will sew back to back, pulling the fabric through, there will be no seam edges, or finishing or hems.

    Let`s get this thread going. Join us if you sew, if you want to sew, if you have queries and questions
    Last edited by kittie; 09-12-2016 at 10:17 PM.
Page 22
    • rosie51
    • By rosie51 9th Jul 17, 5:16 PM
    • 208 Posts
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    rosie51
    Kittie you must be my long lost twin.
    No money, no worry. I am alive and that is all that matters

    2017 Makes from stash
    7/100
    • kittie
    • By kittie 9th Jul 17, 5:48 PM
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    kittie
    you never know Rosie

    my 2 new patterns
    http://www.backstitch.co.uk/liesl-and-co-gallery-tunic-and-skirt-printed-paper-sewing-pattern

    http://www.backstitch.co.uk/sew-liberated-esme-top

    looks as though they will hide a multitude of sins and easy to sew

    I do have very many patterns, now catalogued and most are tops, so next stage is to do another sort of them but I have to be in the right mood

    I am gathering together some fabrics and patterns, already have four on my kitchen table, the aim now is to cut out and bundle them separately, so I can easily pick a bundle out when I want to sew. I cannot see my mad whizz mojo lasting too much longer, I want to go on my bike again and need some rest time so will have to slow sewing down soon and get my cycle legs back again. I think I will easily get 8 bundles cut and ready and then I`ll have to stop
    • PollyWollyDoodle
    • By PollyWollyDoodle 9th Jul 17, 9:09 PM
    • 693 Posts
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    PollyWollyDoodle
    Kittie you're an inspiration! Today I have traced, marked, cut, spread, taped, traced again ... I am not known for my patience but I stuck at it, I am determined to get a top that FITS. I now have back, front and sleeve pattern pieces adjusted for the places where I already know that I need to add width. Tomorrow I am going to cut out a muslin, fortunately I have a large bolt of calico which I bought second-hand on eBay and have never used for its proper purpose although it's come in handy for all sorts of other things. I am still cutting out in wallpaper, but as soon as funds allow I'm going to get some of the proper paper.

    This is a blog I read, and I thought some of you might be interested in this raffle, some fantastic prizes for sewers! Also, if you follow the link to the instagram site there are some real bargains in patterns, fabrics, books and other stuff - it's all raising money for the Grenfell Tower fund.
    "Inconceivable". "You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."
    • kittie
    • By kittie 9th Jul 17, 9:43 PM
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    kittie
    fantastic!!! Polly really fantastic

    I don`t do a full size muslin if its only the neck bust and shoulders for example and I dont do the facings, I just cut off the SA for the neck and armhole if I don`t need the sleeve.

    I cannot be bothered with tv, so went back upstairs and decided to go through my underwear drawer. I am needing underskirts now. I picked up two I had made in 2013, I couldn`t believe how well they were made but from that warm sticky stretchy thin cotton. They looked fine and so did the camisole but I threw out the 30 year old polyester slips. I decided that I would make two underskirts so looked fabrics up this time and something called bemburg lining is recommended, a rayon which is wicking and cooling, found some on ebay from thailand, 100% reviews, so have ordered 2 yards. Total was £20. Silk is not so good as it is warming, even though I have some silks. Free instructions, p27 for the underskirt
    https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/guides/success-with-sewing-lingerie/452991

    I will need stretch lace so decided to sort my haberdashery box, cor blimey I even have bias bindings in there that I remember rooting for when a haberdashers was closing down. I have loads of stretch lingerie trimmings as well as piles and piles of all sorts of lace trimmings, including fine wider stuff that would look very special on a nightie. That really is the last box to be gone through

    I found a few potentially good skirt patterns including a jalie 8 gore skirt and the petite plus flirty skirt
    http://www.petitepluspatterns.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=505
    Quite honestly I am giving myself a year and will start to get rid of patterns, limiting myself to those that will work

    I have 6 bundles to cut on the table and will add that nightie when the fabric arrives. I am also waiting for some double gauze to arrive, I want to use it for esme. That will make the 8 bundles

    Polly wd on getting that pattern right. Its so hard to do it yourself but once done then its done
    • kittie
    • By kittie 10th Jul 17, 8:41 AM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    a skim- over dress
    https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/autumn-dress/

    and another
    https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/autumn-dress/

    style arc are cut very well and are true to size all through their range. They are not multi sized so I don`t copy them and the paper is real long lasting paper, not fragile tissue

    amazon do a very nice style arc top called maddison

    I do get patterns straight from style arc in australia and overall the cost seems to work out at about £10 a pattern for 4 patterns. They base postage on weight. The amazon maddison pattern is £9.99 in my size. Amazon must do the printing here in the uk and seem to put multi sizes on one pattern, which is good for drafting eg making the hips bigger or waist smaller

    No actual sewing today but I will get my solo measuring done, can be done with a tape with a D ring on it, eg for around the upper arm and thigh. I am going to safety pin a loose elastic around my waist, to find my waist and also wear a loose neck chain to find my neck and shoulder bits. I have such a tape but could easily be made starting at a number and working from that eg starting at 10 is easy, just subtract 10 from the measurement. Just needed for round bits. I am going to use the mirror today and stand in my normal undies, I need to see that the back isn`t twisted.

    Important: The body measurements need to be transferred to a pattern allowing for ease. I have an ease list, which I will type out here later and also a list of measurements in my chart.
    • Artytarty
    • By Artytarty 10th Jul 17, 9:32 AM
    • 2,083 Posts
    • 4,495 Thanks
    Artytarty
    Ooh ease. Thanks Kittie, that will be useful,and interesting.
    I always make things too,snug, they fit perfectly but I can't live in them!
    Yesterday I added a waistband to a pair of light linen summer trousers I'd made last year.
    They were too high on the waist and had a facing, no waistband.
    So I cut them down about two inches and put a skinny waistband on. Much better?
    Today I think I will go to a few charity shops to see what I can find to mess about with.
    Norn Iron Club member 473
    • PollyWollyDoodle
    • By PollyWollyDoodle 10th Jul 17, 9:53 AM
    • 693 Posts
    • 18,798 Thanks
    PollyWollyDoodle
    Ease is something I'm just learning about, I realised that's why the top that I thought should have fitted, was too tight.

    I did my measurements as part of my muslin planning, I've avoided measuring myself for years so it was a little painful to see what size I really am - I wasn't skinny as a teenager but no wonder things fit straight out of packet then, I was a more regular shape! However one thing that was an eye-opener was the tape-round-the-waist trick, I have always known I had a high waist but I was really surprised at just how high it naturally sits.

    Once I've cracked doing tops, I will tackle a pair of trousers. I always struggle to get ones that fit.
    "Inconceivable". "You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."
    • kittie
    • By kittie 10th Jul 17, 10:56 AM
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    kittie
    arty if you go to craft fairs, like the one I like in Builth wells called wonderwool, then there are always several upcycled stands, rows of upcycled skirts for exemple

    I only realised about ease lately too, always made things to the exact measurement or straight out the patten box, thinking it was enough to go by my hip size, so the top was always too big. Doh, all the wasted time and expense but I look on it as a pleasure hobby and people buy cross stitch and so on, then never put them up on the wall

    ease: I am going to use abbreviations, they are all in inches,
    F=fitted, SF=semi-fitted, LF= loose fitting, VLF- very loose fitting

    skirts and trousers:
    1-2 waist the same waist for all fittings
    full hip F 2-3, SF 3-4, LF 4-6. VLF more than 6

    bust ease
    blouses and skirts F 3-4, SF 4-5, LF 5-8, VLF more than 8
    Jackets F 3.5-4.5, SF 4.5-5.5, LF 5.5-10 , VLF more than 10
    coats F 5-7, SF 7-8, LF 8-12, VLF more than 12
    Last edited by kittie; 10-07-2017 at 11:15 AM.
    • kittie
    • By kittie 10th Jul 17, 11:10 AM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    I just found this, I saved it on my desktop, it will help with measuring as it shows where to put the tape. Linda Lee, I absolutely rate her
    https://sewingworkshop.com/files/HowToMeasure2013.pdf

    it also gives more specialised ease like the top arms
    • DigForVictory
    • By DigForVictory 10th Jul 17, 11:58 AM
    • 6,872 Posts
    • 18,287 Thanks
    DigForVictory
    I've never forgotten my Aunt insisting on buying really nice fabric for her summer frocks as she held that a "nice fabric hides mistakes so much better". So she'd run up a summer outfit in roll end Liberty tana lawn & look sensational in it for years on a fraction of what it appeared to cost.

    The house stash has changed from my bachelor days. I used to have lengths of curtaining (then found my husband & I had rather different tastes in interior design & decor). We now have linens, pure wool & a few oddities like linsey woolsey bought from a mill we know. It isn't summer fun friendly unless you wish to attire a child or self in fire safe credibly period authentic medieval onwards garb - and they tend to slouch in Tshirts & shorts although youngest wore a ("Roman") linen tunic for much of Saturday. He was downright comfortable - I may tug out a bolt of linen & approximate something similar...

    Haberdashers who understood what you wanted to achieve & could advise. Resists temptation to sob over keyboard but Oxford's Cornmarket used to have such a one And an embroidery, tapestry and other complex needle skills shop. The haberdashers window displays changed weekly & I learned many of my tartans from them. <fondly recalls gawking at a swoop of Dress Highland Mary, amongst Ross & other tartans, whilst awaiting a bus>
    • kittie
    • By kittie 10th Jul 17, 3:08 PM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    Interesting post DfV, aunt was definitely right, quality does last

    I`m just browsing, spent the morning sorting cork infillers to make the table flat under the protective cover and cloth. Used cork roll, cut three pieces and stuck them on card with spray glue. I used a roll and a bit and its fine, does the job. I put the cork face down so it doesn`t slip away, at least now there is no danger of any mug toppling.

    Browsing on the artisan square site, there are endless interesting forums and posts on there. I am not looking for work this afternoon
    http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php
    I have put all my fabrics and matching patterns into a large shopping basket for now, until I feel like cutting them out. Window is open and it is breezy on my bare legs, maybe some long warm skirts would be just right for winter, mmm
    • kittie
    • By kittie 10th Jul 17, 5:00 PM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    I did it, did my measurements and now recorded in my book. Oh dear no thin measurements anywhere but more accurate definitely. HB is + .5 what I thought and high hip is only 2" less than full hip. haha front baby pouch just about equals the derriere, gotto laugh. I am very glad I did it and needed two mirrors for accuracy. I used masking tape and thin elastic with a safety pin. Hardest to do was the shoulder. Sigh, I remember when I was 34, 23, 36
    • rosie51
    • By rosie51 10th Jul 17, 5:31 PM
    • 208 Posts
    • 1,009 Thanks
    rosie51
    Kittie how i remember being 34 24 36, more like 42 36 42 now. Still i am contented to be as i am. Just a few nips and tucks here, i am kidding.
    No money, no worry. I am alive and that is all that matters

    2017 Makes from stash
    7/100
    • PollyWollyDoodle
    • By PollyWollyDoodle 11th Jul 17, 11:29 AM
    • 693 Posts
    • 18,798 Thanks
    PollyWollyDoodle
    This is why I want to be able to sew my own clothes - I want things to fit, and I'm fed up with the way manufacturers' sizes vary so much. I ordered some jeans online recently, supposedly size 18 but one pair would barely go over my thighs ... doesn't help the self confidence or morale!

    Yesterday I sewed the muslin and tried it on, the adjustments I made on the pattern before cutting are good but there are a couple of small fixes, there's too much length in the back and I think I need to take a bit out at the shoulder. If I made this up in a closely patterned fabric I doubt if these areas would show up much, but I'm going to get this right. I am learning so much about patterns and fitting just from this simple exercise.
    "Inconceivable". "You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."
    • kittie
    • By kittie 11th Jul 17, 12:14 PM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    this fabric is nice, good colours and pattern and quality is lovely. Its washing now, washing will remove the added finish, so will decide after.
    https://www.croftmill.co.uk/products/fabric-by-width/fabric-by-width-144cm-56-and-above/floral-cotton-elastane-trousering-fabric-product.html
    The purple parts are on each selvedge side and the slight stretch is side to side, I was thinking of trying to incorporate the purples as splashes. Got to lay the pieces so that stretch happens across the body. Should make a top quality garment if I can do that, I may have to cut one piece at a time, following the length of the fabric. It`s just out the wash and feels much more drapey and a tad finer, so could well make an elastic waist skirt, maybe I`ll do an 8 gore elastic waist. It`s 146 cm wide after washing. I`ll see how it dries but think it will retain its drapey nature. I can`t believe how much finish some manufacturers put on their fabrics for sale. Hardly any fabrics handle the same after washing. I could make the PP flirty skirt, cutting on the bias so I get splashes of purple. Cutting will take longer than making. Fingers crossed that it remains drapey

    still not sewing, just pottering and waiting for two fabrics to dry, so I can bundle them with patterns. One fabric out of my stash is suitable for the nightie/wrap combo, I`ll wash it later just in case I didn`t, just a wool wash. I know I did all the cotton t shirt types and linens but not sure about the rest. Looks like two nightie/wrap combos will be in my pattern/fabric bundles. It`s certainly going to help me get through my stashes over time. Will be knitting later

    edit: me too Polly re manufacturers sizing. I can`t tell you how many things I have wasted since my body changed. Sort of fitted but never feeling quite right. I can`t see me buying again tbh. I sent two skirts back to MnS the other week, got 2 sizes and neither felt right but anyway I was in sewing mojo by then so sent them back and bought fabric online with the refund

    Keep us posted about the muslin
    Last edited by kittie; 11-07-2017 at 12:23 PM.
    • silvasava
    • By silvasava 11th Jul 17, 2:05 PM
    • 3,042 Posts
    • 48,399 Thanks
    silvasava
    Most of my sewing lately has been mending,making cushion covers or alterations but reading through the thread has got me interested in sewing for myself again.
    I am tall with a 34" inside leg so trousers have always been a problem added to by me having no bum to speak of! I baulk at paying £50.00 for a pair of jeans in LTS when something very similar but 2 inches shorter is £15.00 in the SM. I have a trouser pattern and a shift dress pattern that I need to check the measurements on - most of me seems to be moving south!!
    Thanks for the link to Croft Mill Kittie - I've saved it as they seem to do an excellent range of fabrics at reasonable prices. My two local fabric shops have gone - the only one I do have is Blendworth Fabrics just up the road from me but its all furnishing although I have been known to make a dress from curtain fabric in the past.
    Small victories - sometimes they are all you can hope for but sometimes they are all you need - be kinder than necessary, for everyone you meet is fighting some kind of battle
    • kittie
    • By kittie 11th Jul 17, 2:27 PM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    it becomes a nice addiction silvasava, as soon as you make anything that well and truly fits

    flirty skirt is going to be in my limited selection of makes that will turn out. I have just copied the pattern as it is originally on thin tissue and I added 1.25" on the length, cut the line, added tissue and used sticky tape. One piece only. I cut all the lines very accurately and added length to the now moved grain lines, they are both on grain and to cut bias. The pack is fantastic, one of those things I bought 4 years ago. Excellent quality book with 4 good patterns in a pocket at the front. Called perfect plus and published by singer, by Kathleen Cheetham, therefore for shorter, rounder, all gone south, people eg the set skirt length is 26. I see some on amazon that look like bargains, just check that the 4 patterns are in there. £12 max for new plus pnp. That is the cost of one pattern, never mind the glossy book

    lol, amazon says that I bought it new in august 2013 and it was £8.96 and that tbh is one fantastic bargain,
    Last edited by kittie; 11-07-2017 at 2:31 PM.
    • kittie
    • By kittie 11th Jul 17, 5:44 PM
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    kittie
    I have spent the whole afternoon altering a pattern, using my measurements. A simple pattern that may well be useful. Before I started I read all the reviews I could and general consensus was that people liked the pattern but it was not fitted enough and the neckline was too wide, especially on the larger sizes. Sleeves too long too
    https://grainlinestudio.com/shop/women/linden-sweatshirt-paper/

    The pattern went from size 0 to 18 american sizes. If I had picked my hip size 18 then it would have been swimming from the underarm up and there would be no shaping at my waist. I measured all areas very carefully and settled on neck to underarm in 12, also thinking that the neck might well be ok in that size, so I left it. Extended to 14 at the underam and then used my grading ruler, curved out to 18 at the hem but hitting the right size plus enough ease at the waist, wrt back waist length of 15.5

    I copied it, as again, it was that dreadful thin tissue. I had to put a large sheet of white card on my table as there would have been no chance of seeing the pencil markings through the swedish paper over brown or green. I don`t intend to use any ribbing fabric. The sleeves are the right length without it and the hem will be fine without it. The SAs are only 1/4" so I won`t be overlocking. I will be finishing the neck with fabric not rib

    I will be using atelier french terry and am noticing that there are 2 way stretches but not as much from selvedge to selvedge, so will be cutting with the main stretching going across the pattern for the neck band at least as they say it needs to be pulled a lot to get it to fit. I may cut it all that way, have to see. Fabric is washing and will be dry in the morning

    If this pattern works then it will be a good one to repeat, I have my fingers crossed.
    • kittie
    • By kittie 11th Jul 17, 10:24 PM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    I have packed up now and feel tired, its past my bedtime. I had no clue how to make the neckline smaller from raglans on this linden. First attempt was carp, I added on 2" and then tried to patch it onto my muslin. Took several tries before I decided to abandon patching and I started again with new alterations and a new copy. Meanwhile my original thin tissue pattern looked as though it had been through the wringer and has plenty of red dots on it, where the sharpie leaked through the swedish paper.

    New alterations: size 16 from underarm up plus an added 5/8 inch from the size 16 shoulder level on each involved piece, this will make the neckline smaller. Graded underarm 16 down to hem 18 and I am leaving it at that. The muslin, using thin cotton stretch stash was ok but will be better a bit bigger hence the size increase. Sewing up is a complete doddle, took me minutes to baste the muslin. Hardest and most important will be the neckband and I am going for a 3/4 stretch

    Thank goodness I have tidied up with another layer under the table cloths, white card covered in red dots. The mess spread everywhere while I got frustrated. Its done, finished and can be cut out in the good fabric as soon as
    • kittie
    • By kittie 12th Jul 17, 11:13 AM
    • 10,766 Posts
    • 57,859 Thanks
    kittie
    a pattern notcher, I have one and would not be without it now, only got mine two months ago but its such a positive easy cut compared to scissors. Amazon £2.15 which includes pnp. I started with traingles, as we were all taught then, then went onto slits and they were not always accurate, sometimes too long and slanting. I cannot believe that notchers are far better but they are

    Did some fabric ironing today as it helps to get that grain line down the middle. Then cut out my 6 gore flirty skirt in bias, I never thought that my turquoise and purple fabric would be enough so I positioned the one pattern piece 6 times, 3 down one side and 3 down the other, all travelling in the same direction. Each time I did the outline with pins as I wasn`t sure if I could get it all on. 2.5m, must have been a generous cut as there is enough left for a childs skirt, not me but in my dgd`s box of bits for her to play with. 3 purples on the left hem and 3 on the right hem. Packaged and bundled with the pattern for another month

    Also cut out linden in sweatshirt fabric, cut the added hem end in case I want it which I doubt and longer than needed neck bands in cross and straight grain. If I ever did that pattern in a woven fabric, possible as it would make a nice high hip t shirt too, then I would cut a neckband in bias

    Keep sewing ladies, look how much we are saving
    https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/online/stella-mccartney/women/ready-to-wear

    Its the fabrics, really it is. I am going to explore double gauze next.
    https://drapersdaughter.com/collections/fabrics/products/kokka-fruit-like-dots-light-blue-on-light-grey

    I already bought a 3m length and it is hanging out over a rack to dry, washed on delicate at 30. Its only 110cm wide so will probably make a top like sew liberated esme. Cost me £72 but that is good for designer kokka japanese double gauze. Anyway compare it to
    https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/stella-mccartney/shirt_cod12027796hk.html#dept=main_shirts_tops
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