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  • FIRST POST
    • Annie1960
    • By Annie1960 18th Oct 16, 12:05 PM
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    Annie1960
    Central heating problem
    • #1
    • 18th Oct 16, 12:05 PM
    Central heating problem 18th Oct 16 at 12:05 PM
    The radiators come on when the hot water comes on. The central heating on the timer is set to off.

    One plumber looked at it and said the problem was that the timer is broken, so it is coming on even when it should not. The solution is to get an electrician to change the timer/thermostat.

    Another one has come today to have a look at it and said that the problem is in the airing cupboard where the bypass pipe is connected wrongly. He is doing me a quote to remedy this, but said it will be 'hundreds'

    Which solution, if either, seems most likely?
Page 1
    • lstar337
    • By lstar337 18th Oct 16, 12:21 PM
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    lstar337
    • #2
    • 18th Oct 16, 12:21 PM
    • #2
    • 18th Oct 16, 12:21 PM
    There is normally a valve that switches from one to the other, and it gets stuck.

    I have seen it reported here lots of times. Somebody more helpful will come along soon.

    Don't think it'll be hundreds.
    • Le_Kirk
    • By Le_Kirk 18th Oct 16, 12:38 PM
    • 1,413 Posts
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    Le_Kirk
    • #3
    • 18th Oct 16, 12:38 PM
    • #3
    • 18th Oct 16, 12:38 PM
    Have a look in your airing cupboard and you should see a 3-port valve or diverter valve. It should have an indicator on it to show which position it is in. Switch the system so that hot water comes on and heating is off. What position does the valve indicator show it is in? Normally marked H (heating), M (mid-point, i.e. both) W water.
    • Annie1960
    • By Annie1960 18th Oct 16, 12:50 PM
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    Annie1960
    • #4
    • 18th Oct 16, 12:50 PM
    • #4
    • 18th Oct 16, 12:50 PM
    Have a look in your airing cupboard and you should see a 3-port valve or diverter valve. It should have an indicator on it to show which position it is in. Switch the system so that hot water comes on and heating is off. What position does the valve indicator show it is in? Normally marked H (heating), M (mid-point, i.e. both) W water.
    Originally posted by Le_Kirk

    Have looked in airing cupboard. I recognise the pump. There are also two other things with Honeywell on them. Not sure if either one of these is the 3-point diverter valve you mention.

    How will I recognise it? I can't see H, M or W.
    • Rubidium
    • By Rubidium 18th Oct 16, 1:36 PM
    • 486 Posts
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    Rubidium
    • #5
    • 18th Oct 16, 1:36 PM
    • #5
    • 18th Oct 16, 1:36 PM
    Have looked in airing cupboard. I recognise the pump. There are also two other things with Honeywell on them. Not sure if either one of these is the 3-point diverter valve you mention.

    How will I recognise it? I can't see H, M or W.
    Originally posted by Annie1960
    You may have two separate valves rather than one three port valve.

    Posting a picture would help?
    • Annie1960
    • By Annie1960 18th Oct 16, 1:57 PM
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    Annie1960
    • #6
    • 18th Oct 16, 1:57 PM
    • #6
    • 18th Oct 16, 1:57 PM
    You may have two separate valves rather than one three port valve.

    Posting a picture would help?
    Originally posted by Rubidium
    I seem to have 2 silver devices with Honeywell written on them. Presumably these are the valves?

    I also have the decorator here who has moved everything so I can't find my camera. All my cupboards are covered in dust sheets, and there are many obstacles in the way.
    • lstar337
    • By lstar337 18th Oct 16, 2:06 PM
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    lstar337
    • #7
    • 18th Oct 16, 2:06 PM
    • #7
    • 18th Oct 16, 2:06 PM
    Try a google image search and see if you can match anything up with what you have.
    • Annie1960
    • By Annie1960 18th Oct 16, 2:30 PM
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    Annie1960
    • #8
    • 18th Oct 16, 2:30 PM
    • #8
    • 18th Oct 16, 2:30 PM
    http://www.metropac.com/Honeywell_ZoneValves.html

    There are 2 of them, and they both look like this.

    I can't really read anything near the levers.
    • lstar337
    • By lstar337 18th Oct 16, 2:44 PM
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    lstar337
    • #9
    • 18th Oct 16, 2:44 PM
    • #9
    • 18th Oct 16, 2:44 PM
    So it looks like you have two valves and one is stuck open.

    Neither of your plumbers seem to have picked up on this.
    • Annie1960
    • By Annie1960 18th Oct 16, 4:14 PM
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    Annie1960
    Both of them were here for different reasons, and I just asked in passing.

    How do I identify which one is stuck, and what do I do about it?
    • Le_Kirk
    • By Le_Kirk 18th Oct 16, 4:52 PM
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    Le_Kirk
    They are zone valves, so you probably have separate upstairs and downstairs heating circuits. If they are exactly like that then the bit that has an arrow pointing to it saying "auxiliary end switch" is also a manual override, you open the valve by moving the slider to the right and tucking it behind the little catch above it. What is supposed to happen is that next time power is applied the valve closes. Is your boiler a combi or do you have a hot water storage cylinder?
    • BoxerfanUK
    • By BoxerfanUK 18th Oct 16, 6:51 PM
    • 281 Posts
    • 209 Thanks
    BoxerfanUK
    I had a similar problem recently and we have separate zones for up and downstairs.

    When the heating came on only the upstairs radiators got hot, cold downstairs. Manually moved the slider across on the zone valve and downstairs radiators came on but obviously the downstairs radiators then came on when the boiler fired up for the hot water as the zone valve was now manually open all the time.

    I suspected it could be a faulty Synchron motor in the zone valve so bought a new one from Screwfix for £16.00, problem solved. A lot cheaper than calling a plumber out and draining the system down to replace a complete zone valve when just the motor was at fault. This is quite a common problem.

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-synchronous-motor/28670
    Last edited by BoxerfanUK; 18-10-2016 at 6:53 PM.
    • Annie1960
    • By Annie1960 18th Oct 16, 7:35 PM
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    Annie1960
    They are zone valves, so you probably have separate upstairs and downstairs heating circuits. If they are exactly like that then the bit that has an arrow pointing to it saying "auxiliary end switch" is also a manual override, you open the valve by moving the slider to the right and tucking it behind the little catch above it. What is supposed to happen is that next time power is applied the valve closes. Is your boiler a combi or do you have a hot water storage cylinder?
    Originally posted by Le_Kirk
    Boiler is Worcester Bosch, not a combi, i think it's called a 'heat only' boiler.
    • Rubidium
    • By Rubidium 18th Oct 16, 8:39 PM
    • 486 Posts
    • 283 Thanks
    Rubidium
    Boiler is Worcester Bosch, not a combi, i think it's called a 'heat only' boiler.
    Originally posted by Annie1960
    The first plumber may have diagnosed the problem correctly and the timer/programmer could need replacing - this can easily be proved with a multi-meter.

    You would know if you had two zones for your heating as you would likely have two thermostats, one for each zone.

    It is more likely that one valve is for hot water and the other for heating.

    Your problem is that most plumbers don't do electrics and most sparks don't touch wet stuff.
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 18th Oct 16, 9:08 PM
    • 480 Posts
    • 145 Thanks
    Risteard
    Have looked in airing cupboard. I recognise the pump. There are also two other things with Honeywell on them. Not sure if either one of these is the 3-point diverter valve you mention.

    How will I recognise it? I can't see H, M or W.
    Originally posted by Annie1960
    Presumably it is an S-plan you have rather than Y-plan. I'm not sure why others jumped to the conclusion that it was Y-plan.
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 18th Oct 16, 9:10 PM
    • 480 Posts
    • 145 Thanks
    Risteard
    Your problem is that most plumbers don't do electrics
    Originally posted by Rubidium
    And the ones that do shouldn't. I've never seen good electrical work by a plumber yet. Absolute jokers.
    • southcoastrgi
    • By southcoastrgi 18th Oct 16, 10:53 PM
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    southcoastrgi
    Presumably it is an S-plan you have rather than Y-plan. I'm not sure why others jumped to the conclusion that it was Y-plan.
    Originally posted by Risteard
    I'm guessing it's because y plans are far more common maybe
    I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.

    You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.
    • bsod
    • By bsod 18th Oct 16, 11:03 PM
    • 1,068 Posts
    • 649 Thanks
    bsod
    what model is the timer

    is the room thermostat set to call for heat

    press the hot water timer on button, and trace which pipes get hot by feel (carefully), then check the position of the lever on the valves.
    Last edited by bsod; 18-10-2016 at 11:31 PM.
    • Risteard
    • By Risteard 18th Oct 16, 11:55 PM
    • 480 Posts
    • 145 Thanks
    Risteard
    I'm guessing it's because y plans are far more common maybe
    Originally posted by southcoastrgi
    I would say S-plans are far and away more common here to be honest.
    • Annie1960
    • By Annie1960 19th Oct 16, 2:17 PM
    • 1,977 Posts
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    Annie1960
    Presumably it is an S-plan you have rather than Y-plan. I'm not sure why others jumped to the conclusion that it was Y-plan.
    Originally posted by Risteard
    I have no idea what this means.
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